NY_SXR700
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2006 Apex-GT
I finally had a chance over the weekend to tear apart the GT. I figured out what you were all saying about the alignment stuff (it's not spelled out as clear until you look at it). The down side is, I need to move my motor to the MAG side to lenghten the width between my PTO and jackshaft. From stock, I was able to get about 3 turns only and that is not enough. There is an internal collar on the 2 sided threaded spacer. After 2.5 or 3 turns mine was touching the frame (can't move any further). That is not enough to move my motor where I need it. So, where do I go from here.
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks,
Doug
NY_SXR700
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I did not loosen the rear long bolt. Everything I read said to only touch that if I had removed the motor. I have never moved the motor or crashed the sled. Do I need to loosen it to get the front to move. The threads are so fine in the front adjusters, 3 turns is just not enough. Doug
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
There is more then 3 turn of tread on those adjustment.
You got to loose the right side before you tight the left side,then re-tight right side when done.
If you have problem to turn the adjustment you can take a pry bar to move the motor when turning adjustment.
If you still have problem post pics so wee can see.
You got to loose the right side before you tight the left side,then re-tight right side when done.
If you have problem to turn the adjustment you can take a pry bar to move the motor when turning adjustment.
If you still have problem post pics so wee can see.
NY_SXR700
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Thanks for the reply. It sounds like you know what I am talking about. Where the mount bolt slides through the hole, there is a gold colored treaded insert. That insert has a collar on the inside (motor mount) side of the frame. You can't unscrew this thing as the color bottoms out to the frame when screwed out. In my case, 3 turns and it was bottomed out. There is no way to turn it out any more. I can't get a photo of it as the relays and wires near the battery box are in the way. I am at a loss of how to move the motor 1/16 of an ince forward. Doug
How are you measuring your C-C?
NY_SXR700
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With this tool (link below). I forget who makes it but I think it's a good one. I removed the primary to clean it and screwed it in. I have not tried it with the primary intalled. It has that feature also. I was thinking of doing that test tonight after dinner.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=86642
Doug
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=86642
Doug
NY_SXR700 said:With this tool (link below). I forget who makes it but I think it's a good one. I removed the primary to clean it and screwed it in. I have not tried it with the primary intalled. It has that feature also. I was thinking of doing that test tonight after dinner.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=86642
Doug
OK, that's the right tool. If that is your sled in the pic you linked (Sorry, didn't read the post) then you're not any further out than most of the sleds I've seen. What are you using to turn the inner mount? I'm struggling to understand it being bottomed out after 3 turns; these things can be turned a long ways...
Have a look at the pic below - it started out life as a 13mm socket and then met my grinder. are you using something similar? To solve your problem you need to be turning the front PTO side clockwise while turning the (front) Mag side counter-clockwise. For the amount this needs to move you should also give the rear a couple of turns clockwise.
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duhr8m
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I would get the off set right and if the center to center is off that little use the three bolts in secoundary to adjust belt ride hight by putting in the thickness washers you need to get you there. offset is going to keep you from blowing belts. just a thought,
NY_SXR700
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2006 Apex-GT
Well I can try to move the back a bit. I have done everything you have stated except mess with the back. My offset was right on. so moving it forward only was what I was shooting for. That photo was actually my sled. It's closer now but still not spot on.
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