That Darn "cylinder head cap"

[rocky18]

Just finished changing the oil on the '12 Vector. Putting the "cylinder head cap" back in place took way too much time…and frustration. How are some of you guys screwing this thing back in place "easily".. Any thoughts, photos or info on tools used would sure be appreciated. Thanks
Semper Fi & Fairwinds
Rocky 18, AKA Mike

 

[J1635]

lol yeah, dont take it out in the first place? as far as i know there really is no reason to unscrew those plugs on the newer models, thats the black plastic one underneath the body panel under the handle bars?

you drain your oil, change the filter, put in whatever it takes, run it, check the level and add if needed. easy

 

[4strokeluvr111]

lol yeah, dont take it out in the first place? as far as i know there really is no reason to unscrew those plugs on the newer models, thats the black plastic one underneath the body panel under the handle bars?

you drain your oil, change the filter, put in whatever it takes, run it, check the level and add if needed. easy

X2

 

[Vectornut]

My dealer says that Yamaha told them , in order to minimize any top end damage , to pour half a litre of oil down where that cylinder cap is located in the event the oil pump is slow to prime. So I do this every oil change.

 

[J1635]

My dealer says that Yamaha told them , in order to minimize any top end damage , to pour half a litre of oil down where that cylinder cap is located in the event the oil pump is slow to prime. So I do this every oil change.

lmao what? i call horseshit on this. Every time you shut the sled off and it sits for an extended period, that oil is gonna drain back down to the sump, ive done oil changes on many different makes and models of 4 strokes over the years and not once have i poured oil into the top end. the pickup for the oil pump is literally submerged in all of that oil, if its not picking anything up then your going to/already have other serious problems.

Maybe if you only put in half a cup of oil, started it and immediately redlined the throttle for a few minutes you could have an issue. but putting in most of/all the oil into the oil tank and starting it without reving would be absolutely fine.

I pulled my engine last month, it had been sitting for about a month and a half after i drained the oil and coolant previously, when i changed my tensioner and pulled the head off it was still full of oil in there, and it had been sitting for a loooong time.

100% certain this is why they put that plug off in the middle of nowhere because you dont need to do it. if anything its there for inspection, not to mention yeah you can pour oil in there, but its literally only running down that 1inch wide hole/colum till it hits the bottom. theres 4 cylinders, theres no way its gonna completely splashcoat every part in there just from gravity pulling it down. but hey thats just my opinion

 

[rocky18]

Vectornut… Many thanks for your reply...I'm glad you do that cylinder head cap thing..… my question is, how do you accomplish the task of opening the "cylinder head cap"…. and then when ready, screwing that plastic plug back in?…. the key words here are "screwing that plastic plug back in" …. any tips you can offer will be appreciated. Replacing that cap is very annoying …Thanks
J1635…. I'm starting to agree with you with this exception. I think the reason the manual requires opening that cap is because they want to completely vent the engine and by doing that "all" or most all oil will be drained. My warranty has 4 years remaining and I am following the manual to a "T" because of that. Thanks to you both for your opinions. I value them.
Semper Fi & Fairwinds
Rocky18, AKA Mike

 

[J1635]

Vectornut… Many thanks for your reply...I'm glad you do that cylinder head cap thing..… my question is, how do you accomplish the task of opening the "cylinder head cap"…. and then when ready, screwing that plastic plug back in?…. the key words here are "screwing that plastic plug back in" …. any tips you can offer will be appreciated. Replacing that cap is very annoying …Thanks
J1635…. I'm starting to agree with you with this exception. I think the reason the manual requires opening that cap is because they want to completely vent the engine and by doing that "all" or most all oil will be drained. My warranty has 4 years remaining and I am following the manual to a "T" because of that. Thanks to you both for your opinions. I value them.
Semper Fi & Fairwinds
Rocky18, AKA Mike

next time you change your oil, pull the drain plug and the filter first. let it drip for at least 15-20 mins. after its stopped dripping, pull that cap off. youll see why you dont need too

 

[Vectornut]

It stands to reason that you pour 1/2 litre into the top. Think of your truck. You pour the oil into the valley covers, not down the dip-stick. That way the oil runs from top to bottom in the engine while it waits for the oil pump to take over. J1635. I really enjoy your input and your participation on these pages. I am sure many riders here look forward to your answers as you do respond quickly.

 

[J1635]

It stands to reason that you pour 1/2 litre into the top. Think of your truck. You pour the oil into the valley covers, not down the dip-stick. That way the oil runs from top to bottom in the engine while it waits for the oil pump to take over. J1635. I really enjoy your input and your participation on these pages. I am sure many riders here look forward to your answers as you do respond quickly.

i agree, but im still wondering what happens when the sled sits over the summer, or an extended period of non use. that oil is still gonna drain down anyway so when you start it its the same thing happening?

 

[Vectornut]

I start my sled once a month to prevent those autumn dry starts and also not to have to huff and puff into the gastank via the tank vent to get it going. I also change the oil and filter at the end of the season. I admit I am a little over the top about these things.

 

[grizztracks]

No need to pour oil in through the valve cover. Just because oil is poured in through the top doesn't means it's going to get into all the points that are critical. When the oil is drained there is plenty remaining in the engine. Even after setting for long periods the oil remains in most of the journals and ports. If you have ever done an engine rebuild you'd know this. Also, not all engines pour the oil in through the top. In fact most larger diesel engines don't. One thing that I do recommend is to fill the new filter with oil before installing it. Some oil will spill while spinning it on but a dry filter is worse than not pouring oil through the top.

 

[Roger]

A lot of you guys sure like putting yourselves through a lot of misery for nothing.
You let any engine sit for a year, take it all apart, and EVERY piece of metal in there will have a film of oil on it.
Pull your plug and filter, let it sit for awhile, 20 minutes, 2 days! who cares, most of the oil will come out. Install your plug, and filter, if you decide to change it.
Fill the remote reservoir with oil, run it, check it a couple of times, you're good to go. Oh, the filter only needs to be changed every now and then, not every oil change.
What's Yamaha recommend, every 10000 miles on the filter?

As for starting it during the summer. good luck with that. I used to, until it wouldn't start when I needed it.
I'd start it, let it run for 15 minutes, and then do the same in a month or two. Winter rolls around, eventually, and it wouldn't start.
The plugs were done. Thanks to the brilliant engineers who design snowmobiles these days, you have to be a contortionist to change the plugs.

Here's what I do. In the spring, with a warm engine, drain the oil, change the filter every second year, new oil.
Change chaincase oil, every year.
Fill the tank to prevent any condensation from forming in a tank that isn't full.
Put fuel stabilizer in the gas to prevent the tiny tiny tiny orifices in the fuel system from gumming up, run the sled for 15 minutes where it will be stored for the summer. Park it, off the ground and only cover it to keep the dust off it.
That's it.

When snowmobiling season is about to start. Siphon the gas out, pour that gas in my truck which will burn anything, and fresh gas in the sled.
Move the sled from storage into my seasonal toy shed. Make sure it is good and hot before shutting it off, remember I had to change the plugs once? Not doing that again. The computer will shut the engine off before it gets so hot as to damage itself anyway.

Never an issue.

Guys, quit letting a fairly useless service manual rule your lives.
It's a machine, a rich mans toy. It isn't a delicate flower that needs to be handled with little girlie hands!

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Roger - I think you and I need to attend the same anger management classes!

It's a machine, a rich mans toy. It isn't a delicate flower that needs to be handled with little girlie hands!

I won't soon forget this line! It is so true!

Those carb'd Yami 3 cyl motors...it seems like no matter what you do....you'll plug a pilot jet.

Two things to remember......"Mechanic in a Bottle" (this stuff works!) and clear inline fuel filters. The filters work too!

 

[MadMax]

X999 on the MIB.. After my solid, positive stories our local sled shop uses it and recommends it. MM.

 

[Irv]

I exclusively use Sea Foam for my Stabilizer. It is also a great cleaner, water remover, etc etc etc. Haven't used regular Stabilizer in years and haven't had a problem.

I drain/siphon my gas out after the Sea Foam treatment and add 5 gallons in the fall for start up and no issues ever doing that to 2 sleds.