The importance of maintaining proper clutch alignment

[RX1Jim]

It is apparent from all of the information shared on this site that proper alignment of the primary and driven clutch is an absolute requirement to get optimum performance when using Freddie's performance kit. It is a straight forward process to check the clutch alignment when the engine is not running. I wonder about how much the engine shifts under load since the engine is mounted using rubber mounts. The engine probably shifts back towards the driven clutch at least a few millimeters during acceleration especially with Freddie's kit due to the improved midrange power. It seems to me an engine tensioner or device to restrict the engine movement is necessary to keep the clutch system aligned during full power. Another solution would be to remove the rubber engine mount located at the front of the engine on the clutch side and replace it with a solid mount. I don't know why they mount the engine in rubber anyway, all sport bike engines use solid mounts. I know Mikey has used an engine tensioner, has anybody found a tensioner to improve performance?

Freddie, your thoughts on this??

 

[grader]

black john and i put tensioners on our sleds in 03. after gutting the airbox and jetting up, the sleds woke up big time(ecp effect). after only a few rides both sleds lost performance and would not pull top rpm. after checking about 100 things we found the problem, the engines had moved and reduced the center to center. we made tensioners and solved that problem. when freddy((ecp)) developed his kits there were some people having problems and he wrote up an excellent article on clutch alignment, center to center, and paralalism. do a search back about 2 yrs to read it. these things are critical for top performance no matter whos clutch kit you have.

 

[SUPERTUNER]

It is apparent from all of the information shared on this site that proper alignment of the primary and driven clutch is an absolute requirement to get optimum performance when using Freddie's performance kit. It is a straight forward process to check the clutch alignment when the engine is not running. I wonder about how much the engine shifts under load since the engine is mounted using rubber mounts. The engine probably shifts back towards the driven clutch at least a few millimeters during acceleration especially with Freddie's kit due to the improved midrange power. It seems to me an engine tensioner or device to restrict the engine movement is necessary to keep the clutch system aligned during full power. Another solution would be to remove the rubber engine mount located at the front of the engine on the clutch side and replace it with a solid mount. I don't know why they mount the engine in rubber anyway, all sport bike engines use solid mounts. I know Mikey has used an engine tensioner, has anybody found a tensioner to improve performance?

Freddie, your thoughts on this??

The reason why they mount motorcycle engines solid is due to the fact that they don't need to flex a tunnel in an effort to downplay cracking it. Fact, some motorcycle engine are indeed rubber mounted. Some of the Harley Davidson ful dress touring bikes and the convertible are rubber mounted. Many of the motocross engines are also rubber mounted.

Freddie

 

[RX1Jim]

Hi Freddie,

Thanks for the input. What is your opinion about the use of an engine tensioner or movement restrictor to keep the clutch system aligned?

 

[Frostbite]

I fabricated and installed an engine tensioner. I really never notieced any difference except MAYBE I lost a few hundered RPM. I'm not sure if the tensioner caused it or not.
I haven't checked my center to center lately but I think I will now. I do have a perfect 15mm offset though.
So for me anyway, the jury is still out on if there is any benefit to running an engine tensioner. I can tell you this, one of the steel 10/32 bolts I used to hold a spacer was bent in half so that tells me the engine is moving under acceleration. Perhaps I'll throw the tensioner back on with a stronger bolt and retest.

Frostbite

 

[RX1Jim]

Frosty,

If the 10-32 bolt is bent it means the engine is definitely moving. If the engine moves back, the center to center distance decreases which has the same effect as using a worn narrow belt. The C-C distance is probably the most critical dimension to maintain for performance. 10-32 is a pretty small bolt to use, I'm using 5/16" dia. bolts. I made the tensioner up using 2 stainless steel tie rod ends and an aluminum rod to tie them together. It is light, inexpensive, $28 for all the parts from McMaster-Carr and should do the job, especially when the rubber mounts get older and therefore a little sloppier.

Can you post pics of your tensioner and how you mounted it?

 

[DC5]

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=9906&highlight=

 

[SUPERTUNER]

Hi Freddie,

Thanks for the input. What is your opinion about the use of an engine tensioner or movement restrictor to keep the clutch system aligned?

I like them Jim. On our Open Modified tube frame chromoly fragsters, we mount the engine solid to the frame and motorplates. Why? Because we need to know that the eninge isn't moving in the chassis. This makes for repeatable results on the dragstrip.

Freddie

 

[RX1Jim]

The engine tensioners should be installed so they are parallel to the drive belt. If the tensioner is mounted so it is not parallel to the belt, when the engine pulls on it, the angle of the tensioner will cause the engine to shift left or right depending on the angle of the tensioner. I know it is difficult to mount it parallel to the belt using ang of the stock bolt holes so I am building a special mounting block. It is all these details, some of which seem to be very minor, which all add up to OK performance or Terrific performance. Just my two cents worth.

 

[Mikey]

My design that can be found in the tech pages has lasted 2300 miles without any aparent wear. I do agree on the parrallel idea but the way the RX engine is mounted only one tensiner is required and you do not want to transfer unwanted vibrations into the chassis by haveing a too stiffly mounted engine.

look on the TY tech pages under Engine and installing a torque link. Its relitivly inexpensive and great looking.