The TORS issue again

[Yamasledder]

Hi all. Last winter I was having problems with the TORS system and the engine cutting out on my 2006 Nytro ER. After much frustration, I did the bypass by opening the harness cover under the hood and bypassing the switches on the handlebar. At first I thought that was how I would leave it indefinitely. I then noticed that when the engine was cold it behaved differently with the TORS bypassed. When I choked it to start, it would start normally but then surge and stall unless I continuously choked and unchoked it until the engine got some heat in it. Even then, it would idle very slowly and sometimes even stall. I used the sled this way for the remainder of the season. In the spring, I decided to hook up the TORS again to see how it behaved. It behaved normally again. The engine would stay running at a fast idle while cold with the choke on and then drop to a lower and reliable idle when the red light went out on the display. I'm convinced that it was moisture or ice in the switches at the handlebar that caused the malfunction in the first place and then it dried out in the spring and allowed to to function normally again. I know that it is going to be a problem again this season as soon as it gets snow and ice in the handlebar switches again and I don't want to bypass it again as the machine runs so much better on startup with it connected into the loop.
Now for my question(s). Can the housing on the handlebars be taken apart to possibly put some form of lube or contact sealant on the switches. Has anyone come up with a solution for this (other than bypassing)? I feel that this is a real issue on these machines and it would be good if there was a real solution to the problem. I've read a lot of threads on the TORS problem and couldn't find anything that talked about solving the problem with the switches on the handlebar. Sorry for the longwindedness of this post but I felt that I needed to explain my findings clearly.
Thanks;
Rod.

 

[thrasher]

Disconnected my TORS system my first year after it acted up and almost got me killed. My sled runs great now with no issues.

 

[doc]

I had a TORS issue on my apex , I was told to loosen the screws on the butter flies on the carbs one by one , give the throttle flipper a couple blips and tighten the screws . I did this to each carb one at a time and the Apex has run great ever since , 2400 miles last winter . I wonder if the throtte shaft and the butterflies were not in sync ? You might try that , cheap and might work . Doc

 

[Yamasledder]

Well; I'm going to give it one more try. I removed the pivot pin for the throttle and sprayed in a bit of lithium grease around the push pin for the TORS to help seal out moisture. I then added a thin shim on the upper end of the pin to put a little more pressure on the seals at each end of the pin that are supposed to keep moisture out of that area. If that doesn't work, I'm going to do the bypass on it and forget about it. Time will tell.
Rod.

 

[thrasher]

That lithium grease in a spray can just turns to glue when it's freezing cold and dries out. It's not good for much unless you just want to coat something.

 

[Yamasledder]

Yes. I thought about the grease thickening when I put it in there but if the TORS switch sticks inward, it'll act the same as bypassing the system.