Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Guys, has anyone played with their TPS settings since last season? I checked mine today and it was at .847 from last season. After reading all the old posts I copied it seemed that the closer to .700 on is the more top end they see. So I reset mine to .777 (since I am from Washington and Boeing is here).
Has anyone found somewhere between .650 and 1.05 to be the best overall position?
Thanks for any info.
Frosty
Has anyone found somewhere between .650 and 1.05 to be the best overall position?
Thanks for any info.
Frosty
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Come on guys, this is far too important to let it go to the back of the bus. Reading the old posts from Supertuner, Ted Jannetti, Blue Shadow, Cubby and others shows it once was a question which we were all searching diligently for an answer.
Ok, a answer of jsut leave it stock would work too.
What about for boondocking or mountain climbing?
Frosty the snowman
Ok, a answer of jsut leave it stock would work too.
What about for boondocking or mountain climbing?
Frosty the snowman
Snorover
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There was a post on this some time way back. Do a search for it. 

Blue shadow
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Well I tryed just about every setting there is.We race between 600 to 800 ft . The high setting is good between 200 to 300 ft and no more.It gives good hold shot but you have to have good traction to take advantage of it. I know have the TPS set at 96 for take off and back to stock after 200 ft.I have a switch made up for moving my TPS back and forth .Just waiting for snow to have some fun.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Blue Shadow, I sure would like instructions on how to do the switch. I am torn between setting mine for .700 or 1.0. I am thinking the lower setting will give me more top end but the higher number will get me there sooner. I want both!
Frosty
PS: Snorover, yes this has been discussed before but without concrete answers.
Frosty
PS: Snorover, yes this has been discussed before but without concrete answers.
Blue shadow
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I cant post a pic off what I have done.Need to test first to see the results.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Sounds good, I'll be watching.
Frosty
Frosty
SUPERTUNER
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Frostbite said:Blue Shadow, I sure would like instructions on how to do the switch. I am torn between setting mine for .700 or 1.0. I am thinking the lower setting will give me more top end but the higher number will get me there sooner. I want both!
Frosty
PS: Snorover, yes this has been discussed before but without concrete answers.
This has been discussed at great length in the past. The best "concrete" answer you are going to get is this:
For short 500 to 660 foot drag races set it to .900 to 1.0 volt. For trail riding and anything remotely close to 1/4 mile and longer distance lakeracing, set it in the stock position. Setting it advanced basically advances the ignition timing slighlty thereby heating the combustion chamber sooner and quicker thereby making more heat thereby making more power sooner during the run thereby making for more and more controversy on the subject. Too much heat for long distances is exactly what you don't want. (anything beyond 660 feet)
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks Supertuner. I was hoping you'd weigh in on the subject.
What in your estimation is the stock setting of the TPS supposed to be? .700 (with a range of 1.0 acceptable- .650 to .750)?????
If one were to split the difference between .700 and 1.0 (8.5) would it theoretically give you a slightly better hole shot with a slight loss in top end?
For boondocking in the mountains the 1.0 setting sounds like what a mountain guy would want for the quick burst of power needed for shooting up a hill.
Is there a benefit to going below .600 for lake racers to perhaps build big top end numbers by moving the engine heat to a later time?
If one were to use a "Vortex" type CDI programable ignition system is the TPS setting one of the variables that is manipulated by such a deveice?
Ok, I'll stop with the questions. have a good one.
Frosty
What in your estimation is the stock setting of the TPS supposed to be? .700 (with a range of 1.0 acceptable- .650 to .750)?????
If one were to split the difference between .700 and 1.0 (8.5) would it theoretically give you a slightly better hole shot with a slight loss in top end?
For boondocking in the mountains the 1.0 setting sounds like what a mountain guy would want for the quick burst of power needed for shooting up a hill.
Is there a benefit to going below .600 for lake racers to perhaps build big top end numbers by moving the engine heat to a later time?
If one were to use a "Vortex" type CDI programable ignition system is the TPS setting one of the variables that is manipulated by such a deveice?
Ok, I'll stop with the questions. have a good one.
Frosty
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SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Frostbite said:Thanks Supertuner. I was hoping you'd weigh in on the subject.
What in your estimation is the stock setting of the TPS supposed to be? .700 (with a range of 1.0 acceptable- .650 to .750)?????
If one were to split the difference between .700 and 1.0 (8.5) would it theoretically give you a slightly better hole shot with a slight loss in top end?
For boondocking in the mountains the 1.0 setting sounds like what a mountain guy would want for the quick burst of power needed for shooting up a hill.
Is there a benefit to going below .600 for lake racers to perhaps build big top end numbers by moving the engine heat to a later time?
If one were to use a "Vortex" type CDI programable ignition system is the TPS setting one of the variables that is manipulated by such a deveice?
Ok, I'll stop with the questions. have a good one.
Frosty
Stock TPS settings range from .710 to .775 from my experiences.
"If one were to split the difference"...Your riding style and environment may prove to need different setting than someone else. Test it and let us all know what you end up doing.
The lack of oxygen in the air at altitude makes for a rich running engine thereby keeping the combustion chamber too cool to make any power. Therefore, I supoose superheating the CC to keep some heat in there might work. Once again, testing, testing, testing.
I am not so sure you could adjust below .600. Never tried it, but it is very possible to make the CC too cool thereby preventing you from making any HP and also keeping you from going fast.
Don't know anything about the "Vortex" programmable CDI as I have never seen one.
You have reached your question quota for the remainder of December and all of January.

Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks for the answers to my questions. I promise to at least TRY to not target you with any further questions on the subject.
"The lack of oxygen in the air at altitude makes for a rich running engine thereby keeping the combustion chamber too cool to make any power. Therefore, I supoose superheating the CC to keep some heat in there might work. Once again, testing, testing, testing".
Your remarks above regarding the lack of oxygen at altitude still make me wonder if an ECP filter equipped RX-1 should be running 165 main jets?
How's that main jetting chart with needle position and fuel screw settings coming?
Thanks again.
Frosty
"The lack of oxygen in the air at altitude makes for a rich running engine thereby keeping the combustion chamber too cool to make any power. Therefore, I supoose superheating the CC to keep some heat in there might work. Once again, testing, testing, testing".
Your remarks above regarding the lack of oxygen at altitude still make me wonder if an ECP filter equipped RX-1 should be running 165 main jets?
How's that main jetting chart with needle position and fuel screw settings coming?
Thanks again.
Frosty
Mikey
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SUPERTUNER
You have reached your question quota for the remainder of December and all of January.
LMFAO
Ted Jannetty
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Don't forget guys, Idle speed settings will change base tps readings as well so when comparing tps readings, the engine should be fully warmed up and set to 1200 rpm from test to test.
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