tomMTX
Pro
I installed a Timbersled suspension earlier this winter and at the same time put on a new Challenger Ex 153" on my 08 Nytro MTX. I used the stock rails and idlers. Problem is it's super tight.
I have the rear wheels all the way adjusted back and I sucked the limiters up to give myself a little more room. Still it's way tighter than it should be with no more room for adjustment. At idle my track isn't rotating. Last weekend I rode some more hardpack conditions and noticed that braking seems to be really bad on downhill hardpack as the track eventually just locks and starts to slide. I know I'm burning through my hyfax pretty fast in these low cover conditions out West and feel a lot of vibration when I'm riding groomers at speeds over 40-45mph. I was hoping the track would just stretch out some but after last weekends ride I'm well over 200+ miles on it now and dont' think it's going to give much more.
Side effect is it's pulling like crazy in the pow and seems to climb like a bat out of hell which I like! Defiantly rides way better and isn't trenching out as much, and I'm not bottoming out.
Anyone else running stock rails and idlers on their TS setup? I've double triple quadruple checked my measurements, everything should be in the correct place. I know I'm getting robbed of power and probably causing some premature wear to some components which is making me nervous. The next thing I can think to do would be to change out the stock 7" (178mm) upper idlers and install a 5.25 (130mm) idler. I can post up pics for reference if someone needs some visuals. I'm going to try to give Timbersled a call as well, but thought I'd post here and see if anyone else is running a similar setup.
I have the rear wheels all the way adjusted back and I sucked the limiters up to give myself a little more room. Still it's way tighter than it should be with no more room for adjustment. At idle my track isn't rotating. Last weekend I rode some more hardpack conditions and noticed that braking seems to be really bad on downhill hardpack as the track eventually just locks and starts to slide. I know I'm burning through my hyfax pretty fast in these low cover conditions out West and feel a lot of vibration when I'm riding groomers at speeds over 40-45mph. I was hoping the track would just stretch out some but after last weekends ride I'm well over 200+ miles on it now and dont' think it's going to give much more.
Side effect is it's pulling like crazy in the pow and seems to climb like a bat out of hell which I like! Defiantly rides way better and isn't trenching out as much, and I'm not bottoming out.
Anyone else running stock rails and idlers on their TS setup? I've double triple quadruple checked my measurements, everything should be in the correct place. I know I'm getting robbed of power and probably causing some premature wear to some components which is making me nervous. The next thing I can think to do would be to change out the stock 7" (178mm) upper idlers and install a 5.25 (130mm) idler. I can post up pics for reference if someone needs some visuals. I'm going to try to give Timbersled a call as well, but thought I'd post here and see if anyone else is running a similar setup.
philsummers21
Expert
Doesnt it say that if your using stock rails to run no bigger then 5.25 upper idler wheels?
philsummers21
Expert
Sorry about above post it says if using aftermarket upper idlers they must be at least 5.25"
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have nothing to add except to confirm that everything is installed correctly as it should be, unless of course he was given some wrong parts to install.
Tom, you mind taking some measurements of the front arm length?
Tom, you mind taking some measurements of the front arm length?
usafracer
Extreme
If your wheels are all the way back that is your problem. You need to move them forward to loosen the track.
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
you read that opposite of how he meant it. The adjusters are backed out, making the wheels as far forward as they can go.usafracer said:
tomMTX
Pro
Like ruffy said, the wheels are all the way forward, I have the adjusters backed to the edge of nylocks. I found my extra set of 5.25" idlers and went ahead and swapped out the 7's tonight. Much better, I got some slack now. We'll see how she rips up the 2-4ft of fresh we are expecting in the next 48hrs.
Strange that the Timbersled installation manual says your can run the 7's though. Anyone have success running the 7's?
Strange that the Timbersled installation manual says your can run the 7's though. Anyone have success running the 7's?
Zipperno
Extreme
tomMTX said:Like ruffy said, the wheels are all the way forward, I have the adjusters backed to the edge of nylocks. I found my extra set of 5.25" idlers and went ahead and swapped out the 7's tonight. Much better, I got some slack now. We'll see how she rips up the 2-4ft of fresh we are expecting in the next 48hrs.
Strange that the Timbersled installation manual says your can run the 7's though. Anyone have success running the 7's?
I did install the Mnt. Tamer on my stock rails without problems. Did use all the stock wheels and hardware. No problems with not enough slack. They fit perfect. I did have the stock track.
Do you have the stock track??
Running stock rails, have a new powder claw on it an yes it`s tight. Get the same vibrations at the same speed. Is it any better after swapping to a 5.25`wheel ? (vib.)
A 156`track fit like a charm, so yes a 153 is tight.
ntm
A 156`track fit like a charm, so yes a 153 is tight.
ntm
tomMTX
Pro
I'm taking it out for a test ride tomorrow. I'm running the 153" Challenger Ex. Idling in the garage it was much better, track was even free rotating some at idle. To bad I had to burn an almost new set of hyfax in the process.
Not complaining to much though, my sled is awful proud of itself for laying down some hi-marks last weekend.
Not complaining to much though, my sled is awful proud of itself for laying down some hi-marks last weekend.
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
is your challenger a cat track?? or the 9985?
did you stay with 7" rear axle wheels?
I have found that the cat track is very different.
seems shorter and pitch seems wrong.
did you stay with 7" rear axle wheels?
I have found that the cat track is very different.
seems shorter and pitch seems wrong.
I have done a couple of OFT builds with the Mtn Tamer with zero tensioning problems.
The vibration is generally caused by ice build-up in the tunnel. Pay close attention to vibration in the first half mile of riding. If the sled is clear of snow when you unload, you will find that it takes a bit for the vibration to develop; usually 1-2 miles. If this is the case, don't worry; it is a non-issue!
-Moto
The vibration is generally caused by ice build-up in the tunnel. Pay close attention to vibration in the first half mile of riding. If the sled is clear of snow when you unload, you will find that it takes a bit for the vibration to develop; usually 1-2 miles. If this is the case, don't worry; it is a non-issue!
-Moto
yamahaboy701
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I ran my track tight on my mtn tamer. It helped the vibration out for whatever reason. Also I noticed my stock drivers still were in very good condition at the end of the season. I will say that with the stock rails I did lose some adjustment for losing the track.
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Track is a camoplast, stock 7" rear wheels. No ice build up as it is pretty warm down in the valleys and everything melts out.
Some of the vibration is due to running every other for the clips. It seemed like when I used my cat challenger it vibrated for a little bit, then stopped once the drivers wore in to the track. I had no issues with the length on mine.
I don't know what it is with his suspension.
Some of the vibration is due to running every other for the clips. It seemed like when I used my cat challenger it vibrated for a little bit, then stopped once the drivers wore in to the track. I had no issues with the length on mine.
I don't know what it is with his suspension.
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
has it always vibrated?? when my rails were wrong and i had the track condition that you are describing it actually took out my rear wheel bearings.
I would be looking at the bearings and look at the drivers. I found on my stock ones that the guide part of clip was hitting the inside drivers and wearing the driver.
Do not get wahl drivers as they do not work get the avid drivers as i just installed them on mine. have not run it but seems to be the fix.
I would be looking at the bearings and look at the drivers. I found on my stock ones that the guide part of clip was hitting the inside drivers and wearing the driver.
Do not get wahl drivers as they do not work get the avid drivers as i just installed them on mine. have not run it but seems to be the fix.
