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Tools to make studding easier

And torquing studs is the worst advice anyone can ever give for studs at least initially. Run the nut down till it bottoms on shoulder then torque if wanted. Even if going into the dumb silent bumps. Might snap a few studs in process till you get a feel for this but it works way better than a loose stud that had a mythical torque.
 

Only thing I can think of is the wheel will be going over the lip created by countersinking. If thats the case could just shave the whole silent bump off but I highly doubt that the issue is Countersink. Bet those who have trouble have bent studs or loose ones.
My head diameter is 15/16" so I used a 15/16" hole saw with a stop in in to only go in thickness of head (actually a little less to allow for compression of rubber). Then, I remove the rubber inside the circle cut by the cutter. Takes time but it works great.
I know it works (if audible noise is an indicator) 'cuz compared to several other sleds owned by buddies of mine, my track is way quieter and they're replacing wheels, studs, bearings.
 
I never damage a wheel or had a pull out on both our 2014 viper , zr7000 and 2019 zr9000, zr6000 so far
I always bottom out the the nut! The stud heads are slightly dimpled into track same when over a silent pad!!
 


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