I am from the theory that, like punchtech stated, lowering the front end by softening up the springs should help the body roll issue by lowering the center of gravity and allowing more weight to transfer, rather than having it stiff and just want to flip as a result of the sled's momentum. Ultimately, the softer spring would allow for more absorption of the body roll versus a stiffer spring that would soak up only a minimal amount of that body roll. I guess this can be debated and be beat to death. It's really a combination of the springs and a sway bar that work co-dependently to minimize that tippy feeling. I don't think these suspension setups are clear cut and dry as you would think, such as an automobile application...
Groomerdriver...In order to get this sled to be "within" a compromiseable range, I would have to spend money, and I have no problem in doing so. I'm here to speak about my findings and report results to others so feedback can be discussed. I see it as a method for us to share our opinions, whether pro or con, about certain issues and for us to help one another out. With that said, I have reported that the current set-up of my sled does not seem to be working quite well. I think it has to do with a multitude of factors, ranging from snow conditions, sled set up, and overall rider ability. I'll admit, I pushed this sled a bit too much, and I probably could use more experience and seat time to help w/ this.
At any rate, I love the machine and just need to adjust my riding style to it...I'm more of the aggressive type, but maybe I need to tone it down a bit? I would like to invest some money to be able to push this thing a lil harder in the twisties though, if possible. I'm thinking maybe the Pioneer sway bar addition and setting my transfer rod to less transfer and lastly limiter strap adjustment may just do the trick.
Groomerdriver...In order to get this sled to be "within" a compromiseable range, I would have to spend money, and I have no problem in doing so. I'm here to speak about my findings and report results to others so feedback can be discussed. I see it as a method for us to share our opinions, whether pro or con, about certain issues and for us to help one another out. With that said, I have reported that the current set-up of my sled does not seem to be working quite well. I think it has to do with a multitude of factors, ranging from snow conditions, sled set up, and overall rider ability. I'll admit, I pushed this sled a bit too much, and I probably could use more experience and seat time to help w/ this.
At any rate, I love the machine and just need to adjust my riding style to it...I'm more of the aggressive type, but maybe I need to tone it down a bit? I would like to invest some money to be able to push this thing a lil harder in the twisties though, if possible. I'm thinking maybe the Pioneer sway bar addition and setting my transfer rod to less transfer and lastly limiter strap adjustment may just do the trick.
Silver
Expert
Tighten the front springs do not run them soft.I'am 4-5 turns stiffer then stock on my 04 Warrior.Ski comes up a little sometime but now know what it is going to do no suprises.Here is my set up. Yamaha mtn ski (wider is always better)13 mm sway bar,4-5 turns of spring tension,run transfer rods 3-4 lines ,and 6 in carbides regular woodys,ski are shimmed some darting but not much.This is my best set up I've had in 11,000 miles. Fun and predictable.If you want to do a little experment as to if softer is better then stiffer unhook your sway bar and take it for a spin you will soon feel what too much body roll feels like and how unpredictable it is.Everybody always wants that soft cushy ride, tighten them up man and start railing some corners.If your studded and the outside belt of the track has studs in it IMO this will make for more in side ski lift as the sled does not slide much in the corners I only stud down the middle.My 2 cents but it all works great for me.I pass all those great handling revs and cats every ride.Silver,
Thanks for the info. Right now I've got 162 studs right up the middle. I'm thinking this *could* have something to do with the reason it wants to push and inside ski lift (combined w/ the longer track).
I'm going to tighten up the front springs a few turns and give that a try. Seems like it may be just too soft currently? I'll bring down the transfer rod to like 4 lines or so and lastly check my limiter strap.
Hoping this will help...I'll report back when I get it back out on the snow, probably won't be for another week or two...
Thanks for the info. Right now I've got 162 studs right up the middle. I'm thinking this *could* have something to do with the reason it wants to push and inside ski lift (combined w/ the longer track).
I'm going to tighten up the front springs a few turns and give that a try. Seems like it may be just too soft currently? I'll bring down the transfer rod to like 4 lines or so and lastly check my limiter strap.
Hoping this will help...I'll report back when I get it back out on the snow, probably won't be for another week or two...
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
I tried the softer route, and found that tighter/tightest minimized the lift the best. This sled already has a high CoG, so my feeling is that trying to artificially lower the front end isn't going to cure the problem. You need to prevent the sled from rolling at all period. A thicker sway bar will help the roll, but will also yield a stiffer front end ride, but by the sound of the way you ride, it won't matter.
I have 144 studs on my short track, and have little doubt that this contributes to my push....I'm running 6" Doolies but for the way I ride it's OK. A suggestion would be to run 8 or 10" of 90 deg. single carbides. You'll have some darting but it'll turn better with less push. Long track + lots of studs + dual carbides = mucho push.
What about pulling some of the studs? Do you really need that many?
You want to go fast and rail in corners, and you have so many factors working against you. Try to minimize the things that are working against you.
When you rolled your sled, I'm glad you didn't:
1. Hurt somebody else on the trail
2. Hurt yourself
As to the guy who says his Vector beats all the Doo's and Cats on the trails. OK...whatever you say.
I have 144 studs on my short track, and have little doubt that this contributes to my push....I'm running 6" Doolies but for the way I ride it's OK. A suggestion would be to run 8 or 10" of 90 deg. single carbides. You'll have some darting but it'll turn better with less push. Long track + lots of studs + dual carbides = mucho push.
What about pulling some of the studs? Do you really need that many?
You want to go fast and rail in corners, and you have so many factors working against you. Try to minimize the things that are working against you.
When you rolled your sled, I'm glad you didn't:
1. Hurt somebody else on the trail
2. Hurt yourself
As to the guy who says his Vector beats all the Doo's and Cats on the trails. OK...whatever you say.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I bought a set of GYTR clickers front shocks and got them shimmed in otherwords shorten the travel by 5/8" it lowered the front +/- 2" and what a difference in handling with zero preload on springs and a 13mm sway bar WOW it rails but the other thing is that I do not run STUDS
The other very important thing is to make sure you have your MONO shock spring set correctly to your weight...the famous SAG should be between 40 and 45mm this is 1 of the most important adjustment for your MONO to properly distribut its weight evenly and have the proper riding height and do not run your rebound to HIGH or HARD setting I've got mine set to SOFTESSS that way your shock re-coops quicker and use the full travel of your suspension.
I've set my limiter strap and transfer rod at the mid point and like it that way when you hit the flipper it raises 3" to 4" and hooks up!, like someone else mentioned you'll get the hang of the FLIPPER its a totally different way of driving a 4 stroker with that much engine braking, cuz as soon as you enter a corner and if you let off that flipper she transfers all the weight on the front and the back end wants to take over, she tends or wants to throw you of the seat and will lift the inside ski, you have to CARVE her threw play around with the throttle and you'll get the feel of it it took me some time to get use to, I never let off the throttle or use brakes in corners...practice makes perfect!
1st pic is with stock set-up, 2nd shimmed with factory preload and 3rd shimmed with ZERO preload.
The other very important thing is to make sure you have your MONO shock spring set correctly to your weight...the famous SAG should be between 40 and 45mm this is 1 of the most important adjustment for your MONO to properly distribut its weight evenly and have the proper riding height and do not run your rebound to HIGH or HARD setting I've got mine set to SOFTESSS that way your shock re-coops quicker and use the full travel of your suspension.
I've set my limiter strap and transfer rod at the mid point and like it that way when you hit the flipper it raises 3" to 4" and hooks up!, like someone else mentioned you'll get the hang of the FLIPPER its a totally different way of driving a 4 stroker with that much engine braking, cuz as soon as you enter a corner and if you let off that flipper she transfers all the weight on the front and the back end wants to take over, she tends or wants to throw you of the seat and will lift the inside ski, you have to CARVE her threw play around with the throttle and you'll get the feel of it it took me some time to get use to, I never let off the throttle or use brakes in corners...practice makes perfect!
1st pic is with stock set-up, 2nd shimmed with factory preload and 3rd shimmed with ZERO preload.
Attachments
Silver
Expert
It's not a vector its a 04 Warrior (136) but I bet I could pass you on my Kids Sno-Scoot 
It was just an observation of mine as I pass people but don't get passed while on the trail. Take it how you want just trying to help a guy out and get a little dig in on the comp.
It was just an observation of mine as I pass people but don't get passed while on the trail. Take it how you want just trying to help a guy out and get a little dig in on the comp.
Philscbx
Extreme
Negative in any application.punchtech said:
Your not just lowering it with spring height, your removing the resistance of the suspension to deflect the forces by making the spring weaker.
Weaker spring, ski travels further before resisting the springs force.
Instant rollover.
Take all the springs pressure off, and lower it all you want, and you have what?
A loose bowl of spaghetti.
You could make the skis solid to the ground, but putting an I beam across the skis was already tried by the Vikings.
I wouldn't place so much importance on A arms being perfectly level with stock springs.
Stiffer springs and sway bar and slightly above level is what your after.
Just like round d round cars on the track.
Their set so stiff, that axle flanges have sheared right off with the wheel.
But they stay flat through the turn in high G loads.
You'll get it under control in the end.
Pack filament, and duct tape. Now go pound it.
I hated the 05 rage when 1st riden after coming off d viper, but as has been stated well by others here once you get in tune with your 4st. you will love it.
I now ride an 08 RS V GT . I had the transfer set to full just because I never had a sled with such "fun transfer". Being able to lift the skis at will is a blast.
I recently put the transfer to the mid. and still get fair transfer, but have gained a better ride and better front end control.
Soft spring setting will ALLOW the chassis to rotate or roll, period.
also don't forget that snow conditions will have alot to do with handling as well.
we hit some set up concrete trails that made you fight to steer a corner during the day and later at night once the top was chewed up by traffic our sled felt like slotcars.
I now ride an 08 RS V GT . I had the transfer set to full just because I never had a sled with such "fun transfer". Being able to lift the skis at will is a blast.
I recently put the transfer to the mid. and still get fair transfer, but have gained a better ride and better front end control.
Soft spring setting will ALLOW the chassis to rotate or roll, period.
also don't forget that snow conditions will have alot to do with handling as well.
we hit some set up concrete trails that made you fight to steer a corner during the day and later at night once the top was chewed up by traffic our sled felt like slotcars.
Wilson
Expert
punchtech said:
I think you want the front ski springs harder to keep them on the ground .
