wh2oscott
Veteran
Well, I have been getting stuck. as I need to make it up some hills I think I am Over spinning the track.. Just not hooking up, I know the 3 ft of fluff has something to do with it... should I be mellower on the throttle as I make my cuts back uphill.. should I drive more Like my pickup... Yaknow not spin the tires.
I was always under the assumption WOT gets you there....Its Just not working for me..
Oh by the way I really like my sled, seems to shine on the lesser angles in the 3ft of fluff,it really carves....... still just not getting me to the top of the mountain..
I was always under the assumption WOT gets you there....Its Just not working for me..
Oh by the way I really like my sled, seems to shine on the lesser angles in the 3ft of fluff,it really carves....... still just not getting me to the top of the mountain..
yamahaboy701
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Stock track?
If yes there is one big problem. Challenger Extreme will get the job done a lot better.
If yes there is one big problem. Challenger Extreme will get the job done a lot better.
wh2oscott
Veteran
the Timbersled and new track are a next year mod.. I know the track sucks but its hard to see others do things i cannot.. I am hoping to improve myself this year...
I am looking more for riding tips then Mods with this post
Can anyone point me toward some good MTN riding Instuction website or videos... I am sure I need to improve on my tecnique....
I am looking more for riding tips then Mods with this post
Can anyone point me toward some good MTN riding Instuction website or videos... I am sure I need to improve on my tecnique....
kilometers
Pro
trial and error buddy. there is no books or websites to teach you. .. plus with the various snow conditions one can run into throughtout a ride or week,, somthing that works one day wont the next...
the nytro being a bit heavier then most, a good run at the bottom is key. if you idle up to a hill then crack it theres a good chance your getting stuck..
no matter how good you are your going to get stuck the key is to set yourself up so you dont have to dig so much,, turn out early so at least if you get stuck you can easily pull a ski around by yourself...
comes pretty natural to most, dont be afraid about hurting the sled. pinn that #*$&@ lean it over and fly up the hill.
the nytro being a bit heavier then most, a good run at the bottom is key. if you idle up to a hill then crack it theres a good chance your getting stuck..
no matter how good you are your going to get stuck the key is to set yourself up so you dont have to dig so much,, turn out early so at least if you get stuck you can easily pull a ski around by yourself...
comes pretty natural to most, dont be afraid about hurting the sled. pinn that #*$&@ lean it over and fly up the hill.
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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It could be the way the sled is set up. Perhaps too much ski pressure. More than likely it's the track. The stock track is a POS!
wh2oscott
Veteran
tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
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'07 Apex RTX SC2 MPI 128x1
I have tried the Chris Burandt turn back uphill, its really a tough move to make in almost any snow, especially 3'+ of fresh pow. I suggest the track change but I know you plan that for next year. Just keep trying new positions on the running boards and different speeds. You will surely find the best way for yourself to go places you never thought it would take you in stock form.
Another issue with the 09 is the tunnel/board design.
They are like massive surf boards.
I know the track will be next year, but swapping out the boards and something like the skinz tunnel mod/bumper will greatly reduce the amount of boards on the snow.
The issues is the boards float on top of the snow, keep the tunnel up and the track drops out from underneath you while the sled still sits up high.
As Tapex and others have said - track, track track.
but a cheaper mod that doesn't take long would be the boards and tunnel mod.
They are like massive surf boards.
I know the track will be next year, but swapping out the boards and something like the skinz tunnel mod/bumper will greatly reduce the amount of boards on the snow.
The issues is the boards float on top of the snow, keep the tunnel up and the track drops out from underneath you while the sled still sits up high.
As Tapex and others have said - track, track track.
but a cheaper mod that doesn't take long would be the boards and tunnel mod.
Mtnviper
Vendor
wh2oscott
For deep snow you might try pulling up the limiter straps 1 or 2 holes. What this will do is reduce the aproach angle some, which can help with trenching issues. The trade-off is the steering may feel heavier on harder snow.
As for riding, momentum is your friend try to keep the sled moving forward as much as possible. In deep snow it's easier to slow down to pick your line, instead of trying to re-cover lost momentum.
When starting out, go easy on the throttle until you have some forward momentum going, then you can pin it! There is no hard and fast rule about when you can pin it. Pretty much varies with snow conditions, and just takes practise to get the "feel for it".
When stopping in deep snow, I like to ride around in a circle and stop in my own track, or be pointed down hill. It makes it easier to start out again with out digging yourself in a hole.
When climbing I usually will try to build up some pretty good speed before I get to the bottom of the hill. The momentum will help keep you on top of the snow as well as help carry you part way up the hill. Just about the point where start to loose forward momentum, is the point at which you want to turn out. Stay in throttle while making your turn out until the sled starts to point down hill. Not only does it help power you through the turn out, it also helps tighten up the turning radius. So your less likely to be stuck pointing across the hill side. The goal here is to swing the sled around and be pointing down the hill. Main thing is to try avoid being stuck pointing up hill as it's a lot of work to get unstuck. Or pointed across the hill increasing the chances of having the sled barrel roll down the hill.
Oh yeah, and a different track helps a lot too!
For deep snow you might try pulling up the limiter straps 1 or 2 holes. What this will do is reduce the aproach angle some, which can help with trenching issues. The trade-off is the steering may feel heavier on harder snow.
As for riding, momentum is your friend try to keep the sled moving forward as much as possible. In deep snow it's easier to slow down to pick your line, instead of trying to re-cover lost momentum.
When starting out, go easy on the throttle until you have some forward momentum going, then you can pin it! There is no hard and fast rule about when you can pin it. Pretty much varies with snow conditions, and just takes practise to get the "feel for it".
When stopping in deep snow, I like to ride around in a circle and stop in my own track, or be pointed down hill. It makes it easier to start out again with out digging yourself in a hole.
When climbing I usually will try to build up some pretty good speed before I get to the bottom of the hill. The momentum will help keep you on top of the snow as well as help carry you part way up the hill. Just about the point where start to loose forward momentum, is the point at which you want to turn out. Stay in throttle while making your turn out until the sled starts to point down hill. Not only does it help power you through the turn out, it also helps tighten up the turning radius. So your less likely to be stuck pointing across the hill side. The goal here is to swing the sled around and be pointing down the hill. Main thing is to try avoid being stuck pointing up hill as it's a lot of work to get unstuck. Or pointed across the hill increasing the chances of having the sled barrel roll down the hill.
Oh yeah, and a different track helps a lot too!
Pratas
Extreme
beginning of the season. fresh snow. stalled everything.
need speed and pace .... and experience.
good luck
need speed and pace .... and experience.
good luck
yamahaboy701
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Some good info here:
Foot Position, limiter strap, suspension sag, and throttle control.
Make sure you try one at a time, if you do a combination then you really wont know what works and doesn't work.
I found myself standing so that the tip of my boot was about 2" back from the front suspension bolt. I also would shake the sled left to right a few times on climbs when I was close to getting stuck.
Foot Position, limiter strap, suspension sag, and throttle control.
Make sure you try one at a time, if you do a combination then you really wont know what works and doesn't work.
I found myself standing so that the tip of my boot was about 2" back from the front suspension bolt. I also would shake the sled left to right a few times on climbs when I was close to getting stuck.
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I agree that the running board mod is very effective. But, IMO, a CE 156x2.5 is the most important mod to make the sled better.
wh2oscott
Veteran
Thanks for all the great replys.. I am melting down the sled right now. I have the limiter stap up in the 3rd hole, front shock set fairly light and rear set stiff.. I will probably stiffin up the front and set the rear at the 3/4 position on the spring. I also may need to step back alittle farther on my boards...
Back into the Selkirks on Thursday -Monday....Will let ya know how it turns out...
Thanks again Scott
Back into the Selkirks on Thursday -Monday....Will let ya know how it turns out...
Thanks again Scott
tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
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'07 Apex RTX SC2 MPI 128x1
I would think you would want both front and rear shocks softer for the deep fluffy snow. This should help get on top of the snow rather than trenching out... Keep the limiter tighter and try a softer rear rate. just my .02
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I've always set my sled up to carry the skis just off the snow when climbing at WOT. If your ski's are in the snow your pushing snow which creates more resistance. Just my 2 cents worth.
