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Track damage

dremmick said:
any other input guys I found a good deal on a cobra or should i hold out for a intense? if i dont use this track i just lost $200 dollars.
just sit back and think of all the bad things that can happen if that track blows at speed . I think you will come to the conclusion that you need a new track. easier to do it under your control now than having to drag it out of the trees someplace(if thats all that happen). Sorry but to me you got a 200 dollar track mat. do it now instead of when you have a big ride planned.
 

I'm looking at getting a new cobra for 350 shipped. I don't know if I want to take the risk running this track. It could be fine but you never know. Safety is very important. Would a cobra be a good choice?
 
ice ripper is the best track ive ever had and all my buddies i talked int running one will tell you the same thing just my two cents
 
dremmick said:
I'm looking at getting a new cobra for 350 shipped. Would a cobra be a good choice?

I have had a Cobra for at least a few years and about 4000mi on my RX and love it. It is great on the trail and really does a great job in the loose stuff considering it is only 1.375". I also just put a take off from a Poo SB Assault on my XTX and am looking forward to years of use. That is a good price for the cobra and I think you will really like it.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I decided I did not want to risk it. It sucks that i took the time to change the track and will have to again. Can a track be changed without opening up the chaincase?
 
Change of plans. I'm going to use this track until I find a new on. Would it be best to drill a hole at the end of the crack and them use some e6000 to keep it together?
 
Use the solder iron like was suggested on the 1st page. Dont run WOT with that track. Learned that from my SRX a couple of years ago. Lost the right outerband of the track at speed. Wrecked alot of stuff when it happened tail light rear heat exchanger snow flap and tore my jacket. It started from a stud pull through that i had been keeping an eye on. Problem with it is that it could last a few years or a few miles it fails without warning you twice the cut is your first warning. Good luck.
 
I like the idea of drilling the tip of the cut with a stud track drill and I would run it.
Heating the rubber to melting does nothing for the fibers and they are the strength not the rubber.

Good luck to you with the new track, to my knowledge the chain case needs to come apart for the drive shaft removal.
 
Whats the difference between this and removing studs from a track? Last year I removed like 23 studs from my track that were rubbing on the center shock real bad, and I haven't had any problems with rips or anything, other then my track looking like Swiss cheese.
 


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