track tension

[vote4pedros]

Just wondering if anyone knew how to check track tension on 06 apex? do u need a spring scale or is there another method? thanks

 

[Yamahammer485]

Best ways are to fill a few grocery bags with sand until you get 22lbs, the put that in the middle of the track. With the sled elevated, then check to get around 1" -1/4" of sag on the track from the bottom of the sliders, to the track edge.

I have used a fish scale to pull 22lbs then measure also.

Be sure to align your track afterwards. Your going to need a 19mm and 17mm boxed end wrench, and a 14mm deep socket.

 

[ecopter]

The required stock settings are too tight. I've never used a spring scale or any other technical method. I use the "Hillbilly droop test". Elevate the rear and look for at least an inch to an inch and a quarter sag off the hyfax near the center of the track. Any tighter you'll be wasting your sliders; much looser you'll be racheting when you hammer the throttle. Remember: Loose track means less friction = freed up power. Leave the fish scale in your tackle box.

Jon

 

[06apexrtx]

i agree i have the scale as well but dont use it as i found out last year that the stock tightness is way to tight and will eat sliders. tighten it until it hangs off the suspension maybe an 1" and try it to make sure it doesnt ractch it under power. imo.

 

[apltx08]

If you run your track too loose you will notice the HYFAX wear increase at the rear part of your suspension and if you run it to tight it'll wear at the front bend/curve, you have to get that in between "SWEET" spot, I found with 22lbs and 1" to 1 1/8" of sag is the ideal tension and watch how your HYFAX tend to wear and adjust to wear pattern, I got 6500kms last year on a set and still have over half left with STOCK set up no mods to idler size or track.

 

[vote4pedros]

Thanks alot guys!! appreciate it! So much info on here it's nuts.

 

[S pump]

Thanks alot guys!! appreciate it! So much info on here it's nuts.

I find running the track looser than spec preserves bearings and slides. Just one set of each in 10k miles on my GT. Also find the Ripsaw tracks break in quickly, around 5-600 miles and stay pretty stable after that. Ive had other brand tracks need constant tensioning as they accrue miles.....

 

[SledFreak]

Run an 1 3/4" @22lbs of pull Or tighten 1/4-1/2 turn after it rachets.

 

[bobber]

Just studded mine(162 down center) and have tension set at 1" with 22 lbs pull. Used engine to rotate track while on stand and have hy-fax dust all over track. After couple revolutions squealing and track clips warmed up considerably.
Haven't had machine out yet but thinking I'm going to back off tension about a turn and carry couple wrenches to adjust while track breaking in.

 

[Blue Dave]

I run mine as loose as I can without ratcheting.

 

[Another Phase]

I agree with Blue Dave. Run it as loose as you can without ratcheting. Sled will roll easier and coast better when you let off. Put your sled up on a lift and try to spin the track by hand and you will see how much force it takes to turn. Do this with the track at factory spec and then loosen it off and spin it. You will notice the difference right away

 

[duhr8m]

Run it as loose as you can then complain about why is my track wearing out the top of the shock! Adjust it to specs.

 

[CaptCaper]

Most scales bought at discount places are way off. Do like the post above said and get a bag of sand weight on an acuract scale somewere if you can.
I bought my Chatilion scale and it cost $80 or more. There are copys of it I see for $15. Not the same. Maybe the bathroom digital scales are better now who knows. Maybe weigh the bag on the bath scale and then bring it to the Post Office to weight saying you might ship it.

 

[apltx08]

I made myself a LEAD weight, its about 5" x 5" x 1.5" and weighs 22lbs, compact and accurate...I set in the middle of the track and make my adjustements

 

[bobber]

Is there a 'visual' one can do on the Yamaha? On my Doo's I found that if I adjusted track to where the top of track slide guides were flush with bottom of slides when hanging... seemed to be the sweet spot. Anything like that on the Yamaha? I'm hoping to get machine out the weekend for first ride so will have to adjust a few times I expect, espicially with 162 studs, but will keep an eye out for any such 'visuals'.