Transfer enhancement kit

[Yakuza]

I've had the kit for a couple of years now. My question is--does any one know what type of material the strap is made of and where can I purchase it in sheets so I can cut it in strips? Thank's

 

[impalapower]

Are you talking about the limiter straps on the skid?

 

[Yakuza]

Actually it does look like that and is probably of the same material. It replaces the transfer rods for more ski lift.

 

[impalapower]

HMMMM... The only thing that I know of is the actual transfer rods that you replace with easy adjust transfer rods. I don't know anything of any straps other than the limiter straps. I'd say if it is made of rubber with nylon threading inside or kevlar to give it strength. Who makes the kit?

 

[Yakuza]

I purchased mine from MPI for 50 buck's. The kit work's great for long tracks. I've got the mountain version. The only thing is I keep wearing it down every season and perhaps need something stronger or more of.

 

[impalapower]

I'm at a loss, I'm not sure what to use. Maybe some old conveyor belt.

 

[Yakuza]

Now that's a thought.

 

[Anonymous]

Used to make our own limiter straps back in the early 90's for more weight transfer. I'll talk to my buddy to see where he got the material because it would be ideal for this situation.

 

[LazyBastard]

Few things to consider about that kind of transfer kit... 1) on trails it will make the thing wheelie insanely, 2) to stop it from ratcheting, you need external drive sprockets, AND to tighten it up enough to crush a moose's skull, 3) Without suspension coupling, the front will bottom out much more easily, which may lead to premature W-arm failure.

That being said, a few suggestions for materials;

1) seat belt strap (it will get iced, but it holds up very well),
2) a chunk of an old track,
3) Best possible; take the stock upper control rods and cut it off up the neck somewhere, then weld on a steel bar the same diameter as the hole in the lower rod, cut the bar so that the rod is the same length as before, then drill and tap the end and reinstall. Then you'll still have down coupling (limiting), and no up coupling.

 

[Yakuza]

Thank's piped yammy. Will wait for your buddy's response.

Thank's LB, if I experiment on the seat belt, since it's thin, would it tear off where I put the nut/washer and bolt through (under load)?

 

[LazyBastard]

You shouldn't have any tear through problems, just make sure that you *melt* the bolt holes in it, and melt the end of the strap to prevent fraying. If you're really worried about a seat belt falling apart, you can sandwich the joint between steel blocks with two bolts holding it together like a vise. No matter what kind of strap you try, I would definitely recommend using very LARGE and THICK washers.

 

[Yakuza]

LB----I'm physically bowing down to the screen------you are trully an RX1 info maniac ahh I mean an RX1 INFO GOD. Will start experimenting this weekend. Thank's again LB.

 

[Frostbite]

I made some limiter straps a few years ago for the front end of my Exciter. I used conveyer belting material and cut it in our power shear at work. It looks like the same material used as original equipment.
I may have a couple chunks left. Let me know how long of a piece you need.

PB

 

[Yakuza]

Thank's Powder Blue, I could use 4 feet or two 2 feet long. Please let me know how much. Sorry I didn't get back sooner, I was out of town.

 

[Frostbite]

I'll look and see what I have left over. PB