otis
Expert
I was playing with the adjustment of my transfer rod and it is now stuck. Really stuck. It started to turn easy and my father-in-law started turning it when I wasn't looking and it became stuck! I fought with the tool then with a hammer and punch without luck. So stuck that I took it off the skid and put it into a vice with a pipe wrench to turn it and no go? I am really worried that it is broken beyond repair. Anyone else have this happen? Any ideas as to what to do? Would heat help?
What would happen if I just ran without it? Does that make the sled wheelie and unrideable?
Thanks for any advice.
Otis
What would happen if I just ran without it? Does that make the sled wheelie and unrideable?
Thanks for any advice.
Otis


**sj**
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try some heat? and make sure you didnt turn the wrong way when it was bottomed out
otis
Expert
The transfer rod is stuck so the inner sleeve is all the way out. I cannot remember which way that is. Is it max transfer or min transfer?
How will it handle that way if I just leave it? Is that going to give me too much ski lift?
I tried heat without any luck.
I am afraid how much a replacement is.
Otis
How will it handle that way if I just leave it? Is that going to give me too much ski lift?
I tried heat without any luck.
I am afraid how much a replacement is.
Otis


1CrazySledder
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otis said:The transfer rod is stuck so the inner sleeve is all the way out. I cannot remember which way that is. Is it max transfer or min transfer?
How will it handle that way if I just leave it? Is that going to give me too much ski lift?
I tried heat without any luck.
I am afraid how much a replacement is.
Otis
I actually bent my transfer rod on my mono last season. 300.00 bucks to replace. However, it consists of about 10 parts. I would take the entire transfer rod to the dealer and see if there is a malfuntioning smaller componenet. There are some rubber parts within it so depending on where you applied the heat, you may have damaged something else inside. I can't imagine a dealer charging you an arm and a leg just to look at it. If the rod is all the way out, then are set at min. transfer. Your track will spin alot. That rod needs to be able to move. I'm thinking if it doesn't, you'll add extra stress to the suspension and may break something else. Chain reaction. I would just take the time and get it fixed.

-1CS
otis
Expert
Thanks for the tip. The rod still slides easily within the transfer rod body I just cannot adjust the amount of transfer anymore. I figured all the way out was max transfer which would ride poorly. I want the hook up and a touch of ski lift on acceleration.
I called the dealer and they said they would try to warranty it despite my desperate attempts to pull it apart and cause some damage. They thought that since it was frozen it's worth a try especially for $300 and have had one other similar case.
I am purchasing another one that someone else posted was for sale just in case since i am not optimistic that they will warranty it.
Otis
I called the dealer and they said they would try to warranty it despite my desperate attempts to pull it apart and cause some damage. They thought that since it was frozen it's worth a try especially for $300 and have had one other similar case.
I am purchasing another one that someone else posted was for sale just in case since i am not optimistic that they will warranty it.
Otis
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Threaded all the way out is full transfer. The larger the gap = more transfer and vice versa for smaller gap = less transfer. Be careful when applying heat. Like 1Crazysledder said, there's plastic and rubber parts in there that can be damaged!
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
Same thing happened on my Attak, dealer replaced transfer rod under warranty.
Jim
Jim


1CrazySledder
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oops. I had it backwards on the transfer thing.
maybe I should have another? lol. Good luck Otis.
-1CS

-1CS
otis
Expert
Lucky for me my dealer is replacing it under warranty. Something like $400 since it has to be pieced together with individual parts.
Otis
Otis
Bodacious
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I had my suspension out in late April, the adjuster was working normally. I tried to adjust today ( fisrt ride this season) it was seized within the housing. The lock nut was free. After trying to get it to budge I decided to take it out and drop it off at the dealers this week. Put it in the vise and soaked it with MARVEL for about 30min and was able to free it up. So I disasembled it, cleaned it and put anti-seize on the aluminum threads and reassembeled it. It seemed that the two aluminum components just corroded, causing the threads to lock up.
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