tryin' to get the god damn skid back in....

[fr0st]

so how do you do it ??

got the new 2" track in and the skid's rear bolts back in their place on thge tunnel...but can't seem to be able to get the front part back in.. i'm like 2-3 " away from the tunnel holes... wtf ??

their has to be a trick right ??

:\

 

[low flying missile]

so how do you do it ??

got the new 2" track in and the skid's rear bolts back in their place on thge tunnel...but can't seem to be able to get the front part back in.. i'm like 2-3 " away from the tunnel holes... wtf ??

their has to be a trick right ??

:\

The easiest way is to do this is to let tension off the rear torsion springs by removing the black plastic slider blocks from the slide rail anmd letting the springs hang. I usually locate the front arm first then the rear. I use a length of steel pipe over the tip of the spring to lever the spring and block back into place and reinstall the bolt. It takes some muscle. I have also used a ratcheting tie strap to pull the front and rear towards eachother until the holes line up.

 

[sloan188]

as stated above, releasing the torsion springs makes it easier. Additionally, IMHO it is easiest to put the front in first instead of the back. Ensure the track tension is as loose as it will go, wrestle the front into position, put the bolts in, align the rear (this is very easy with the torsion springs released and a ratchet strap will solve everything if you are having any issues at all), connect the torsion springs, tighten track.

You seem to have the hardest part behind you....getting the skid back into the track.

 

[fr0st]

yep... had a ball getting the skid in the track.. i sincerely hope all this is worth it..

it's my first time doing all of this... i'm no wrench jedi but i learn as i do it..

 

[Sevey]

I have a ratchet strap that i use to collapse the front arms of the skid to make it slide into place a bit easier in the tunnel. once its in i realease it. When trying to get the front bolts aligned it helps to have the rear suspended with a chain fall or a strap with a cam cleat - so you can raise and lower it easily. I have also used blocks of 2x4's and placed them under the track at the front of the skid - and that helps force the skid up into the tunnel and align with the holes. Also crab a pry bar and place under the track to do some final adjustments for alignment. Its definitely a bit easier with 2 sets of hands but totally doable on your own once you learn a few tricks. Also, like the comments above I have the torsion springs released. I tape them to the skid so it isnt flailing around as you try and work it into place. Hope this helps. MS

 

[sloan188]

It's absolutely worth it! Look how much you saved by doing it yourself!

 

[pay2play]

Front bolts first for sure. Put a jack under the track in the front. Have a buddy pull back on the skid and track to help get the bolts holes aligned while you jack up the front of the track. You should have the back lifted up already. Aligning the back bolts is much easier. You can lower the tunnel down over the rear bolts. With the springs loose, alignment is easier. Don't be afraid to do this again. The second time shaves off a lot of time! It did for me anyway... Lol. Good luck

 

[Nytros rule]

When I installed my back country it was $699.00 + taxes, $ 92.00 each for Arvin extroverts, $950.00 all in + about 4 hrs of my time. Versus $1800.00 installed at dealer.
4 hrs well spent.
You won't be sorry you did it yourself. I hope.

 

[Dbo]

I save my old slides. Stick them between track and rails. Helps get in and out. Skid is suprizingly heavy tring to get out of those nubs

 

[NS FX NYTRO]

Front bolts first, then With a big pry bar (I used handle from my floor jack) pry down on rear arm above upper idler wheels, this collapses the rear arm and your bolt holes will line up. I just did this about a month ago by myself. Once you pry down on rear arm you'll see what I mean, holes just line up!

 

[fr0st]

i did it wrong to start with... glad i asked here for some pointers..


i bolted the rear and did NOT undo the springs... but i did strap down the front a little.. (to the limit of the ratchet as the straps were all messed up)

 

[fr0st]

finally got it in... this call for a beer

used straps to pull it by the rear bumper.. you guys were right, once you do it, it's all not that bad..

the rear was a piece of cake to bolt on and put the springs back..

one question.. i put blue loc tite on the bolts... but what is the torque setting ??

 

[R00STER]

52 foot pounds

 

[cloead]

When I put mine back in I stood on the skid to compress the front shock and then tied it in the compressed state with a big piece of wire (that I didn't mind wasting, I cut it off eventually). Also released the torsion springs.

After that I used a small ratchet strap to compress the rear shock.

Put the skid into the track, attached the front bolts.

Had to mess with the rear ratchet strap to get the rear holes to line up.

Once all the bolts were in, I cut the wire holding the front compressed and released the strap on the rear.

Then I wrestled the torsion springs back into position

Fin

 

[sloan188]

You guys that compress the front shock, do you find that it helps?

I normally push my skid as far forward as I can get it effectively straddling the drive shaft (limiter straps up against drive shaft with rail tips below and upper arm above). I do this to make as much room as possible in order to get the rear of the skid into the track which is what I find the hardest part.

I find this easiest to do "alone" with the sled lying on its side but can't/don't do this with the Nytro due to oil leakage.