Trying to start up after 2+ years

anti seize on the threads of the plugs, oil in the spark plug holes to help lube cylinders and build compression.
 
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anti seize on the threads of the plugs, oil in the spark plug holes to help lube cylinders and built compression.
Never would have thought to use oil to create a seal for compression. What grade oil? I have used car oil if all I'm doing is burning it.
 
any grade of motor oil
 
How much is the question. Just a dab or like a soaking. Also found the problem...might run them for another season:rofl:Had to use a 6 in and a 3 in extension with a flex joint to get it out. Of course the rusted out one was under the turbo. Thank you wd-40.
 

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Don't add enough oil to hydro-lock the pistons or you will be in big trouble.
 
ive been reading up and i'm just going to do a squirt of wd-40. hoping plugs come in tmr and caps the day after that. Not like we have enough snow for me to ride around on. Downstate MI sucks compared to the U.P.
 
I would be careful with oil in cylinder..only a drop or two is needed...turn it over with out plugs ....also plugs need to be grounded so anti seize on them would not aid it that would it?...maybe just some light oil on the threads.. And change them again after a while once the rust etc has burnt off.
Also you need plenty of battery power.. I bought my Attak with 800 miles on it.. sat for years.. the battery cranked over but it wouldn't start... with a jump it fired right up... very tricky to one's ears... I have a 20 series now and it flies over so fast.
 
WD 40 is explosive. Not a good thing to use. Use regular oil, less than a teaspoon per cylinder.
 
Yes, starting fluid is explosive as well. I would not use it.
I would only put about a teaspoon of regular oil in each cylinder. Charge up your battery.
Once the oil is in there, leave the plugs out, make sure kill button is off, and remove the belt, then turn the engine over by hand several times by turning the primary clutch, making sure each cylinder has a least had one complete cycle to disperse the oil and coat your cylinder walls, and help seal your rings.
Then put in your new plugs, and try to start it, without giving it any throttle.
 
My 2 sleds (Apex &Attak) did the same thing after sitting for 2 years or maybe 3 years. I was not able to get either sled to fire over. They would crank over and the fuel pump relay was working but no fire. I too took out the plugs and put new ones in and still no fire. I searched this site and found a post where it was mentioned to hold the throttle wide open. Of coarse make sure to have the brake on and nothing in front of the sled for safety reasons. Within 5-10 seconds they fired over. Both sleds had the same problem and both were solved by this method. Once they fired over for just a second I released the throttle and the sled died. Cranked the sled again and they started up and idled just fine. No problems since. I think your injectors are stuck shut like mine was.
If I remember correctly from the post I read holding the throttle down full blast overrides the computer and puts gas thru the injectors.
 
My 2 sleds (Apex &Attak) did the same thing after sitting for 2 years or maybe 3 years. I was not able to get either sled to fire over. They would crank over and the fuel pump relay was working but no fire. I too took out the plugs and put new ones in and still no fire. I searched this site and found a post where it was mentioned to hold the throttle wide open. Of coarse make sure to have the brake on and nothing in front of the sled for safety reasons. Within 5-10 seconds they fired over. Both sleds had the same problem and both were solved by this method. Once they fired over for just a second I released the throttle and the sled died. Cranked the sled again and they started up and idled just fine. No problems since. I think your injectors are stuck shut like mine was.
If I remember correctly from the post I read holding the throttle down full blast overrides the computer and puts gas thru the injectors.
Anyone else confirm this?
 


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