**sj**
Lifetime Member
shaddow come do mine and I'll clutch compensate you ; )
sj said:shaddow come do mine and I'll clutch compensate you ; )
I've heard thst statement before..and am still waiting
2008FxNytro
VIP Member
i wanna know about this clutch compensate lol.
bottlerocket said:shaddow44 said:bottlerocket said:Looks great and I have been trying to talk myself out of doing this and this is not helping.
LOl, just do it, you know you want to...you'll love the end result!
Ok shaddow I will meet you at the border and we will tackle it real quick. lol
Lol...problem is I usually perform the task with several beers in close reach...I might not make it home lol...you can do it buddy, time and patience grasshopper...and beer!
bottlerocket
Lifetime Member
I own a truck and have to polish the wheels and tanks regularly so I know it to well.
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Does someone have a real good set of instructions, I am very interested in taking on a project like this but I have zero experience and don't know what to do. Things like what does it mean to wet sand lol?
2008FxNytro
VIP Member
Wetsanding is basically just making sure to keep the sandpaper you are using, wet. Also make sure you are using a paper that is for wet sanding, it will say like Wet/Dry on it.
If you were to sand on a material with a piece of sandpaper and didnt keep it wet you would notice the paper get grey, especially with aluminum. this is the aluminum getting in between the grit on the paper and clogging it up therefor no allowing it to do its job. this could also in turn put scratches in whatever your sanding because of having the metal on the paper. By dipping the paper in water as your sanding this will keep most of the aluminum off the paper and let the paper do its job.
If you were to sand on a material with a piece of sandpaper and didnt keep it wet you would notice the paper get grey, especially with aluminum. this is the aluminum getting in between the grit on the paper and clogging it up therefor no allowing it to do its job. this could also in turn put scratches in whatever your sanding because of having the metal on the paper. By dipping the paper in water as your sanding this will keep most of the aluminum off the paper and let the paper do its job.
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That makes sense thanks a lot 2008FxNytro
So basicly what I need to do is sand down the tunnel with the different grits then use an alunimum posish?
Do I get a posishing kit with accessories for drills or other fast spinning tool?
So basicly what I need to do is sand down the tunnel with the different grits then use an alunimum posish?
Do I get a posishing kit with accessories for drills or other fast spinning tool?
2008FxNytro
VIP Member
Your welcome. yea start at lower grit like 400 or 600 and work your way up to 1000, 1500 or even 2000, depending on how shiny you want it. the higher the grit the less fine scratches will be in the metal and will make for easier/better polishing.
i have not done a tunnel but i have done some wheels and things. i would think a mothers powerball would work decent, or get one of the kits with smaller polishing wheels/balls for a drill to get in the smaller spaces. when your all done and happy with it i would say go over it quick by hand with a liquid/paste polish.
i have not done a tunnel but i have done some wheels and things. i would think a mothers powerball would work decent, or get one of the kits with smaller polishing wheels/balls for a drill to get in the smaller spaces. when your all done and happy with it i would say go over it quick by hand with a liquid/paste polish.
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Great! Thanks again,
Someone mentionned to seal it after, what is that?
Someone mentionned to seal it after, what is that?
TVBrian
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yamahas said:Great! Thanks again,
Someone mentionned to seal it after, what is that?
Since my tunnel only had 400km on it when I polished mine, I was able to start with 1000 grit Wet/Dry. If your tunnel is a bit more weathered you may want to start with a 600, Either way do the entire tunnel with each grit sanding with the grain of the aluminum. I would suggest working your way up to 2000 grit. I didn't have to use any polishing gray bars with mine, but you may want to (though I'm not sure on instructions for those). After you have finished wet sanding, be sure to rinse the tunnel off really well as it will be covered in grayish streaks of aluminum dust (more of a paste from the wet sand). I used Busch Aluminum polish for mine and of all the polishes I've used I have not found one with any better results, it plain and simple works AWESOME. I used a variety of polishing wheels for a cordless drill. I don't think a mothers ball would hold up well and there really is only a few place where you could put something that big to use. I think I probably went through 8 various sized polishing wheels to do the 3 coats of polish that I used on my tunnel. As for the sealer, I used Zaino Sealer which is a sealer meant for polished areas on show cars (I think). I works very similar to wax, and really helped protect the polish for the riding season. I have a few buddies that "polished" there tunnels, however they didn't take the time with it, and there's didn't last. Good luck, grab a case of beer and head to the garage for a few nights, Or con a buddy into helping!!
bottlerocket
Lifetime Member
You guys are really getting to me with this!
2008FxNytro
VIP Member
Lol, just do it already!
bottlerocket
Lifetime Member
Busy time of the year for me right now but I going to have to try before the season starts. Damn they look good polished.
RIKMAN
Expert
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