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turbo coming loose

joker2

Extreme
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
50
Location
east kootenays
is there anyone having turbo's coming loose. ive had my mounting nuts fall off once and they were loose a second time already. total i have 8 rides on it and need help to cure this. i have already added nord lock washers and they didn't stay tight any longer than without. alpine yamaha has been very helpfull so far. i will keep you guys informed.
 

That is rather discouraging to read.

I have just finished bolting both mine and a friends back together after our turbos came loose on the last ride.

I found those nordlocks after spending some time on the net and the phone to see what I could do to prevent the nuts from backing off again.I was really hoping that they would be the solution.

I'm wondering if the stainless gasket between the turbo and the header could be contributing to the problem. I was forced to discard it on my friends sled after his came loose on our last ride and I fixed it in a very nice mans shop that he let me borrow. Without the gasket his were still tight after a days ride when I disassembled it again at home to send the header out to be repaired( cracked).

Of course I did replace that gasket on both sleds this time, I may try without if it happens again, just to see if nothing else.

The crappy part to all this is we leave on wednesday for our annual 10 days in Yellowstone ride/vacation. I really, really don't want to wrench again while I'm down there.

I'll keep my fingers crossed I guess.

Back on topic, how tight did you pull the bolts to? I really reefed on them this time, no room for a TQ wrench but I'd estimate around 60-70 ft-lbs. Hope that helps too.

Tony
 
I used hardened flat washers and locking nuts with grade 8 bolts. You need the lock nuts that have dimples in the sides, they look like there're not quite round and feel like they go on crooked but seem to hold up to the heat. I wonder if we need to retorque these after they get good and hot. It's just alot of work to get to a frontmount and find out , ken.
 
Wire tie nut to nut like MX racer do prevents the vibration from causing them to come loose.
 
Hmmm, didn't think loctite would stick around considering the heat involved.

I had considered the "squished" looking nuts, but used the nordlocks instead, I may regret that desicion in the end.

Time will tell I guess, just not looking forward to having to borrow a shop again to rip the sleds apart instead of riding them.

Tony
 
Get aircraft style nuts and bolts with holes and lockwire them together like SJC mentioned ( or you can drill the holes yourself)
 
Get rid of the bolts that it came with and get some good strong bolts , tighten them all evenly as tight as you can get them with lock washers, use the stainless gasket and do not use any high temp copper or other silicones as they will burn out no matter what. using red locktight will help you get a higher torgue on the bolts but will not lock for long as it cant handle the heat either, check your surface area of the turbo flange and make sure that it is flat, mine was not and i had to surface grind it a bit. you shouldnt have any problems after that. i assumed that you have a front mount.
vcrash
 
vcrash said:
Get rid of the bolts that it came with and get some good strong bolts , tighten them all evenly as tight as you can get them with lock washers, use the stainless gasket and do not use any high temp copper or other silicones as they will burn out no matter what. using red locktight will help you get a higher torgue on the bolts but will not lock for long as it cant handle the heat either, check your surface area of the turbo flange and make sure that it is flat, mine was not and i had to surface grind it a bit. you shouldnt have any problems after that. i assumed that you have a front mount.
vcrash
vcrash is right, make shure the turbo plate (turbine inlet plate on header)
is absolutely flat, mill if not... Use safety wire on 4 inlet AND 5 outlet
nuts/bolts....
 


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