Apex Man
Pro
Anybody use the Carlisle Ultimax XS 805 belt instead of the stock Yamaha belt on their Apex?
Thanks,
Moon
Charged RTX
Expert
They were falling apart last year. Carlile was taking them back a giving people 2 of the old style belt. I do not know if they fixed the problem but it does not sound like they do a lot of field testing.
I did a quick search for Ultimax here on TY4
(amazing how good the search function works if you use it)
Found this:
(amazing how good the search function works if you use it)
Found this:
RTX DUDE
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belt
i bought the Ulti max belt 138-1432? From hartman. A softer rubber, no slip, longer for full shift out. I marked my primary and shifts all the way to top. Also shimmed my helix. this belt does work, but I can't tell you how long it will last.
Good luck!
i bought the Ulti max belt 138-1432? From hartman. A softer rubber, no slip, longer for full shift out. I marked my primary and shifts all the way to top. Also shimmed my helix. this belt does work, but I can't tell you how long it will last.
Good luck!
Proper setup is the key to belt longevity. I had to adjust my clutches side clearance and deflection when switching to the Ultimax3 belt. It was fractionally narrower and longer in comparison to the Yamaha belt it replaced.
In the past I've seen 300-500rpm increases when switching from the Ultimax back to the Yamaha belt using the same weights, springs, and helix. I would interpret that to mean the Yamaha belt requires a greater force (pinch) to reach the same sheave gripping power. So it stands to reason if you are set up for the Yamaha belt and switch to a Ultimax belt you are using more force (pinch) than is necessary. This can overheat the rubber compound or damage cords of the belt. Not enough force (slippage) has same effect. So it's that perfect balance you're looking for.
All belts when you buy them new will have a trace of drum release from the manufacturing process (slick stuff like silicone spray). This drum release will transfer to the clutch faces if not thoroughly washed off. To remedy this problem the clutch sheaves and belt should be scrubbed thoroughly with as hot as you can stand soapy water (several times if necessary) to eliminate the drum release (409 works good for me). It is also recommended by the manufacturer that the belt be properly "broke-in" using continuously varied throttle positions without any excessively high speeds or excessively high loads for 30-miles. Just use common sense. (15-miles or so seems to work for me)
Center to Center 268.5mm plus or minus 1mm
Offset 15mm plus or minus 1mm
Secondary belt height 1.5mm above edge to 0.5mm below edge (belt should not squeal) Drive clutch belt side clearance should be .010" to a maximum of .020" (belt should not squeal) side clearance is adjusted by removing the spider (need a grunt tool) and adding or subtracting shims as needed. (or buy an aftermarket external adjuster like I did) Check clearance with a feeler gauge. Excessive side clearance can cause higher than factory recommended clutch engagement and can pop the cord on the belt. Improper clutch alignment and broken or worn motor mounts will have the same symptoms also popping the cords and/or delaminating the belt. I’ve found belt lengths and widths that vary enough to cause problems so setup and adjustment is very important.
On my Apex Mountain, the belt (138-4432 Ultimax3) clutches, under normal trail conditions, run 95-100*F, with no belt life issues.
In the past I've seen 300-500rpm increases when switching from the Ultimax back to the Yamaha belt using the same weights, springs, and helix. I would interpret that to mean the Yamaha belt requires a greater force (pinch) to reach the same sheave gripping power. So it stands to reason if you are set up for the Yamaha belt and switch to a Ultimax belt you are using more force (pinch) than is necessary. This can overheat the rubber compound or damage cords of the belt. Not enough force (slippage) has same effect. So it's that perfect balance you're looking for.
All belts when you buy them new will have a trace of drum release from the manufacturing process (slick stuff like silicone spray). This drum release will transfer to the clutch faces if not thoroughly washed off. To remedy this problem the clutch sheaves and belt should be scrubbed thoroughly with as hot as you can stand soapy water (several times if necessary) to eliminate the drum release (409 works good for me). It is also recommended by the manufacturer that the belt be properly "broke-in" using continuously varied throttle positions without any excessively high speeds or excessively high loads for 30-miles. Just use common sense. (15-miles or so seems to work for me)
Center to Center 268.5mm plus or minus 1mm
Offset 15mm plus or minus 1mm
Secondary belt height 1.5mm above edge to 0.5mm below edge (belt should not squeal) Drive clutch belt side clearance should be .010" to a maximum of .020" (belt should not squeal) side clearance is adjusted by removing the spider (need a grunt tool) and adding or subtracting shims as needed. (or buy an aftermarket external adjuster like I did) Check clearance with a feeler gauge. Excessive side clearance can cause higher than factory recommended clutch engagement and can pop the cord on the belt. Improper clutch alignment and broken or worn motor mounts will have the same symptoms also popping the cords and/or delaminating the belt. I’ve found belt lengths and widths that vary enough to cause problems so setup and adjustment is very important.
On my Apex Mountain, the belt (138-4432 Ultimax3) clutches, under normal trail conditions, run 95-100*F, with no belt life issues.
