**sj**
Lifetime Member
iasledder said:never run this belt with an overdrive clutch setup and/or 2 speeds....
I guess everyone has their own unique problems. I have been running the XS 805 and XS 811 on my Apex ER with no problems and have both clutches cut for overdrive. I run a lot of top end as well. As Ulmer has said, with the XS belts clutch adjustments are required. In my case the XS belts pull the WOT r's down (less slippage?).
I guess I should have worded it overdrive AND 2 SPEEDS...
cuz it upshifts so hard it can throw the belt and could come in contact with the shoulder...
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iasledder
Expert
Again I will say on my sled I have as of yet had a problem. Even with the 23-40 gears I don't pull to the top of the clutch. Overdrive for the most part is not an effective ratio unless you might be running down a long steep hill.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
are you overdrive cut clutches or overdrive sheave primary
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iasledder's clutches are cut for overdrive.
If I'm reading it right what SJ is trying to say is if you have your clutches cut for overdrive and run the 2-speed super torquer weights with the XS belt you could run the risk of running the belt out of the top of the primary and hitting the heel of the weights.
If I'm reading it right what SJ is trying to say is if you have your clutches cut for overdrive and run the 2-speed super torquer weights with the XS belt you could run the risk of running the belt out of the top of the primary and hitting the heel of the weights.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
yes that's right...In my opinion they upshift that hard and especially with the longer belt...could spit the belt..
Pretty simple to find out, remove the springs, close primary, open secondary ...OR... just mark it with a magic marker and run it. When I first switched to the P85/TEAM combo I checked it out. Static, no springs, 3mm of clutch sheave above the belt in the primary and 3mm clutch sheave below the belt in the secondary. Running, at full shift, there is some centrifugal effect and I have 1mm to 1.5mm untouched in the top of the primary. Mathematically geared for 97mph -- 109mph on the speedo.
nate007
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I replaced my stock belt last season after towing 3 different sleds through ditches in one weekend. I got the new style Yamaha belt, and ever since I put it in, I seem to have an issue with it squealing at idle? I also noticed after installing my clutch kit, I hit the rev limiter if I don't ride for a while (and get some heat in the clutches???) Could this be right. I saw a post about a belt that ate the clutch, and I definately don't want that!
Should I be doing something different here? I think I have the adjustment principles down, but throw in a slightly different belt and thinkgs start getting grey again..
Should I be doing something different here? I think I have the adjustment principles down, but throw in a slightly different belt and thinkgs start getting grey again..
**sj**
Lifetime Member
there's slightly different lengths / tolerances belt to belt...a slight squeal might mean you are right there center to center...
blackattak
Expert
Any more feedback XS or Ultimax 3- The dealer will be putting it on what do they need to know to do it correctly. Bought a 4 stroke as I am not a mechanic. My squeal has gotten worse & am tired of it. Once sled is warmed up the squeal is quite annoying & load as I now have to shut the sled down when talking to others at the stops. Other message said to remove 3 washers from secondary but when I looked it appeared as if they were already removed. Thanks,
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Keep in mind that if you take a hard belt with a lower coefficient of friction that if you clamp it proportionally harder it will then grip very similar to a softer belt with a higher coefficient of friction when gripped with less side pressure.
Basically - set up the clutches for a hard 8DN belt and the 8DN belt will work the best. Set up the clutches for a softer belt and the softer belt will work better.
Personally I've found the hard belt combined with appropriate amounts of clamping pressure (like they come stock and how Ulmer sets them up) works very well. One advantage to the hard belt is even though it needs more side pressure, it still lasts longer than a soft belt.
When you are fine tuning for specific situations one belt may be better than another, but for high mileage trail use I'm definitely sticking with the hard and very durable Yamaha belts.
I'm typically seeing 10,000 km out of my Yamaha belts and I'm changing them "just because" at that point. They still have life left. When I used to run softer belts on my Polaris and Skidoo sleds I was lucky to get 4000 km out of a belt before it started to come apart.
Basically - set up the clutches for a hard 8DN belt and the 8DN belt will work the best. Set up the clutches for a softer belt and the softer belt will work better.
Personally I've found the hard belt combined with appropriate amounts of clamping pressure (like they come stock and how Ulmer sets them up) works very well. One advantage to the hard belt is even though it needs more side pressure, it still lasts longer than a soft belt.
When you are fine tuning for specific situations one belt may be better than another, but for high mileage trail use I'm definitely sticking with the hard and very durable Yamaha belts.
I'm typically seeing 10,000 km out of my Yamaha belts and I'm changing them "just because" at that point. They still have life left. When I used to run softer belts on my Polaris and Skidoo sleds I was lucky to get 4000 km out of a belt before it started to come apart.
Daranello
Suspended
LoL, I could only get 600-800mi out of my kevlar belts on the F7. I'd be happy to get 4000mi out of a belt
blade072
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Polaris clutches on Yamaha
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