XS and 8dn Belt info

[**sj**]

the ultimax 3 and the xs 805 are both softer compounds than the 8dn belt and longer..
the xs is the premium compound .

the 138-4432u3 breaks down like this...
u3 for ultimax 3..
138 for 13/8ths inch width..
4432 for 44 and 32/64ths length...or 44 1/2

 

[SpecRTX]

I just talked to the "tech" department at Carlisle Belts. They recommend the XS805. They also said, if anything, it might be a bit wider than the 8DN belt. They also said that with the extra grip, it might pulls the RPMs down a touch.

 

[rightarm]

You don't want sonething thats wider than the 8dn,it will ride even lower in the secondary than the 8dn hence the use of the longer,thinner 138-4432-U2 recommended by Snow Tech.Just my .02

 

[SledFreak]

I think you may have that wrong.... if it's wider it should sit higher in the secondary. It being longer will help it pull down more in the secondary, hense allowing it to shift out more.....

 

[Sidewinder]

so I might actually get it to shift fully out.?
My primary is marked with blueing ,I have well over an inch showing on Primary at top.
Have some on secondary but not as much.
Have an Ulmer stage 2 kit on the 06 RTX and have played with it and not found the sweet spot yet.

Hopefully the ice forms here soon and I can go out and setup.

 

[**sj**]

actually that area your belt doesnt run in is a safety margin designed in by yamaha...of course there is something to be had by going further up the sheave...
the longer 138-4432 will do that but will bring your rpms down due to being tackier and not slipping..

 

[SledFreak]

actually that area your belt doesnt run in is a safety margin designed in by yamaha...of course there is something to be had by going further up the sheave...
the longer 138-4432 will do that but will bring your rpms down due to being tackier and not slipping..

True, one could take change the rivits out and replace with lighter ones or change the tension on the secondary spring to calibrate for the 300RPM difference.

 

[SledFreak]

so I might actually get it to shift fully out.?
My primary is marked with blueing ,I have well over an inch showing on Primary at top.
Have some on secondary but not as much.
Have an Ulmer stage 2 kit on the 06 RTX and have played with it and not found the sweet spot yet.

Hopefully the ice forms here soon and I can go out and setup.

The only way to get a Yamaha too shift out is to gear it down and have the clutches machined for the OD or buy a FixPowersports clutch kit, which comes with a new belt and new inner parts for the clutch which help put the sled into OD. ie. new speed ring and split collars. The only thing is that it's not cheap. 499.00 to be exact. There's many ways to skin a cat.

 

[adeboisbriand]

if it lowers the rpm you are losing top end right? seems like it would, im no expert, though

 

[adeboisbriand]

i have the ulmer stage 3. is it worth going after market on a belt. i do not want to lose any top end. this stuff with belts adding power is kind of new to me.

 

[SledFreak]

If you don't compensate for the loss of RPM, then yes you may lose some top end. As to the second question, I would ask Ulmer since he has tested with it.

 

[**sj**]

if you're loosing it on the top end,,,you'd just take a little weight out of where your lsing rpms...if only on top...the tip of the weight....guess..like 2 grams

 

[Charged RTX]

The xs 805 sounds good! I will post some testing results from the 805 to and 8dn later in the season.

 

[Shane]

I have the Ulmer Stage 3. This includes a gearing reduction and new chain. Alan recommends using 90 degress of twist. I also installed the new 2008 wider Yamaha belt. While riding this past weekend in Canada, the sled felt incredibly strong with no drop in RPMs although I did not do starts from stoppped to WOT. What I did like too is the engagement really doesn't change.

Thanks for the tip on washing the belt. I always clean and scuff the sheaves, usually after every ride. Never thought about the mold release remaining on the belt. Makes a lot of sense.