Under Tunnel Exhaust Pics with Track and Skid installed

ruffryder said:
rlcofmn said:
I'm not sure I'm understanding you? This is just showing that the rear wheel's travel higher than the idlers. Am I missing something here?
agreed. I found the same thing out last year. One thing to not is rlcofmn has 8" wheels, not the stock 7 1/4" wheels. Also, some skids have tipped up rails. Getting straight rails or bending them straight (what I am going to do) should help with the clearance problem as well.

Cat skids are factory 8" and straight rails. ;)!
 
ruffryder said:
rlcofmn said:
Cat skids are factory 8" and straight rails. ;)!
then you have a lot less clearance than the factory tunnel.. lol

Yup, that I did. I was fighting that all year. The purpose of the pictures was to show how far above the upper wheels the track lifts not the actual clearance, because I know the factory tunnel has more.
 
ruffryder said:
rlcofmn said:
I'm not sure I'm understanding you? This is just showing that the rear wheel's travel higher than the idlers. Am I missing something here?
agreed. I found the same thing out last year. One thing to not is rlcofmn has 8" wheels, not the stock 7 1/4" wheels. Also, some skids have tipped up rails. Getting straight rails or bending them straight (what I am going to do) should help with the clearance problem as well.

:drink:
 
NFLD-Nytro said:
ruffryder said:
Getting straight rails or bending them straight (what I am going to do) should help with the clearance problem as well.

:drink:
Whats up with this comment? A 50 ton press should be able to handle the work. Friend of mine did it with good results.
 
Aluminum has a memory and will likely crack the rails without proper procedure. Yes a 50 ton press could make tin foil out of it also.
 
The common experience from snocross is that bent rails being bent back to shape will crack during the procedure or shortly after. I would be very careful trying to straighten XTX rails. Purchasing straight Ice Age rails sounds like a better idea.
 
Alatalo said:
The common experience from snocross is that bent rails being bent back to shape will crack during the procedure or shortly after. I would be very careful trying to straighten XTX rails. Purchasing straight Ice Age rails sounds like a better idea.
Isn't that an example of the rails being bent twice instead of only once in my case..

hmm... gonna have to think about this. Ice Age rails are spendy!!!
 
Be very careful doing this. Cast/Extruded aluminum (which the rails are...they are not machined from solid), only has a elongation of 5%..before crack propagation occurs. Aka if you bend them more than 5% it is very likely to crack...you may not see the crack on the exterior of the rails, but the inner material will be permanently deformed and weakened.

If you still want to do this, take a heating torch to it, and heat the rails at the bending point right before they are in the press. This will help a lot.
 
Beenba said:
Be very careful doing this. Cast/Extruded aluminum (which the rails are...they are not machined from solid), only has a elongation of 5%..before crack propagation occurs. Aka if you bend them more than 5% it is very likely to crack...you may not see the crack on the exterior of the rails, but the inner material will be permanently deformed and weakened.

If you still want to do this, take a heating torch to it, and heat the rails at the bending point right before they are in the press. This will help a lot.

I thought the issue with aluminum was that it dissipates heat so quickly that you can't heat up an area enough to facilitate bending it.

:dunno:
 
Here is my question, I have not researched the construction of OEM rails but arnt they tempered? If this is the case by heating it you will be annealing it making it very weak. But if you don't heat it it will become very weak from stress as well.
 
You could always try bending them, if they don't crack and look fine then build some heavy bracing for that area of the rail and extend it in both directions for as far as you can.

If they crack, or you're worried about their durability after bending then you get some nice new Iceage rails.
 
Took out the rear shock and compressed the skid the whole way. It does hit the very end of the pipe because the rear wheels. I can shorten the mid pipe to cure that.

So after I shorten the pipe I will stil only have half an inch clearance. What clearances are people running between the track and exhaust. Looking for real life examples
 


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