Vector Suspension questions and advice

Flipper moving them twords the front of the machine will give less resistance for bottoming and will kick back less, I think that would be the softer setting. The one i rode last February had the stopper's removed and it definately had less kick, I had mixed thought's on this to but ahead or gone completly may be where i end up to.
 
Move the stop away from the middle.. Put it the hole that wiil give it the longest travel.. That way it won't hit and bounce back..I still fine myself shaking my head in disbelief at idle. So smooooooooooooooooooooth and quiet.. Thr throttle response is way better than I hoped for, Now if I gwet the kind of gas mileage some guys are reporting I will be a happy vector owner.MM. ;)! .
 
Flipper said:
type787x,

Thanks for the excellent feedback.

I will try the anti-bottoming stoppers adjustment and reduce the gap in the control rods to start.

After that, if needed I will try your center shock pre-load suggestion.

On the stoppers, you suggested to move them forward which would be to the hardest setting. I am assuming you meant to move them to soft to reduce kick back, which would be a movement to the rear one hole from M (factory setting) ?

Never mind on the stoppers, I had my back to front mixed up..... :o|
 
Thanks as well for the suggestions 787x, I'll try them out too.
 
Put on another 150 or so miles today with the new supsension settings. This has improved things quite a bit.

I think it is just about dialed in to where I want it now.

I put on a set of 6" Woody's Doolys to match my 144 studs and they work great.
 
I found the dooly's to not work very well in looser snow, they would fill up between the bar's and did not bite. They did track very straight though. What ever work's for you. Just thought i would give you my two cent's so you would look there first if you have a problem instead of the set up. Several people on here have noticed the same thing. kviper
 
Just curious Flipper, did you move the anti-bottoming stoppers to the forward hole or remove them completely?
 
bottom stoppers

Actually, moving the stoppers forward does increase the harshness setting according to the service manual. It would make sense to do that though, as it does look like it would increase the travel before contacting. Just wondering what you found out, because I had a couple bumps Sunday where it seemed to hit hard and kick back also.

Wondering whether to start with moving the stopper forward, or adjust the spring tension to firm. Everything's on M right now as set up. I'm about 220 lbs.
 
The picture in the owner's manual is a little confusing but if you compare it to your machine you can see the "S" position is forward.
But you're right, moving it forward makes it work a little sooner, but it's effect will be softer so a little less kickback.
 
oops

Of course you are right 787. Hope I didn't confuse anyone. Moving the stop forward is softer, not harder. I got a shop service manual so I think I'm smart, and end up looking at the diagrams backward! Duh.

I think I'll try moving those forward before stiffening the rear spring, because I sure like the cushy ride when I'm taking it easy. May end up turning that cam up if I'm still feeling it.
 
After few tests, my set-up is: ski spring preload at minimum, pre load on the front shock at the standard position, block on rear springs at the softest and the anti bottoming devices at the third hole ("hard"). I have tested it at the soft and it engages the spring to soon. I removed it and it will bottom. With this setting, the ride is very smooth on small bumps, smoother than my 05 rx-1, and it will not bottom on bad ones.
 
After few tests, my set-up is: ski spring preload at minimum, pre load on the front shock at the standard position, block on rear springs at the softest and the anti bottoming devices at the third hole ("hard"). I have tested it at the soft and it engages the spring to soon. I removed it and it will bottom. With this setting, the ride is very smooth on small bumps, smoother than my 05 rx-1, and it will not bottom on bad ones.
 
Here is the setup I have ended up with so far, I will attempt to answer all the questions.

I have my rear spring pre-load set to hard. I have the anti-bottoming stoppers at soft. I have reduced transfer via the control rods by one turn (relative to stock). I have not touched center shock pre-load or front shock pre-load.

I made these changes in order to correct for too much transfer when coming out of the corners on the gas and to eliminate kick back from the skid over larger bumps. The changes have worked. I am thinking about perhaps one more turn on the control rods to futher reduce transfer.

I am bottoming every so often right now, but it's not hard. Based on trail side discussions with my riding buddies, I am bottoming when the majority is also.

kviper, thanks for the info on the Dooly's, I will keep this in mind if I encounter the sled handling in this manner.
 


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