tshelver
Pro
Had the Warrior out for my first real ride last Saturday. Went well, but...
I'm comparing it to my old VMAX 700 XTC with SLP SLT skis and various Doo MXZ, REV and Cat sleds I have ridden / rented: it handles very differently.
The Warrior pushed the front end badly under power out of a corner. I'm used to being able to set up the sled for a corner using brakes or throttle to adjust the rear end.
In 3 - 6" of snow the push was a lot worse than it was on a groomed trail.
Also, the inside ski lifts really badly, and there seems to be a lack of damping. Hitting bumps in corner exits gets the front end moving up and down, and I had the sled totally thrown off line on some waterbars I hit.
Another issue is darting, which seems worse than any new stock sled I have ridden, or maybe the SLTs have spoiled me.
I've done some reading on this site, and spoken to my dealer briefly. I weigh just over 200lb in my birthday suit, tend to ride fairly aggressively on the trails and crowd the front end a fair bit. I don't do much off-trail, but don't like getting stuck when I do.
I also would like to retain as much of the comfortable ride as possible.
So, here's what I'm thinking:
- Front skis or carbides get changed out. Simmons Flexi dual runners, SLP SLTs or Powder Pros, or Woodies Duallie runners.
I have and like the SLP SLTs on the 700 (good flotation, good ride, eliminate darting, easy steering), but I don't know that there is enough carbide in the trail configuration to handle the Warrior, and getting rid of the spoon so I can install longer carbides is not going to cure the darting. How much heavier steering are the Simmons flexi skis or SLP Powder Pros?
Are the Woodies Duallie carbides any better than the Simmons for pure trail riding? If anybody has tried the Powder Pros, do they still dart?
- install 2.1 or 2.3 springs, and maybe drop them a bit.
- is it worth putting in the 12mm swaybar?
- Adjust limiter strap / control rods to transfer weight forward and lighten up the rear end a little.
Any suggestions welcome.
I'm comparing it to my old VMAX 700 XTC with SLP SLT skis and various Doo MXZ, REV and Cat sleds I have ridden / rented: it handles very differently.
The Warrior pushed the front end badly under power out of a corner. I'm used to being able to set up the sled for a corner using brakes or throttle to adjust the rear end.
In 3 - 6" of snow the push was a lot worse than it was on a groomed trail.
Also, the inside ski lifts really badly, and there seems to be a lack of damping. Hitting bumps in corner exits gets the front end moving up and down, and I had the sled totally thrown off line on some waterbars I hit.
Another issue is darting, which seems worse than any new stock sled I have ridden, or maybe the SLTs have spoiled me.
I've done some reading on this site, and spoken to my dealer briefly. I weigh just over 200lb in my birthday suit, tend to ride fairly aggressively on the trails and crowd the front end a fair bit. I don't do much off-trail, but don't like getting stuck when I do.
I also would like to retain as much of the comfortable ride as possible.
So, here's what I'm thinking:
- Front skis or carbides get changed out. Simmons Flexi dual runners, SLP SLTs or Powder Pros, or Woodies Duallie runners.
I have and like the SLP SLTs on the 700 (good flotation, good ride, eliminate darting, easy steering), but I don't know that there is enough carbide in the trail configuration to handle the Warrior, and getting rid of the spoon so I can install longer carbides is not going to cure the darting. How much heavier steering are the Simmons flexi skis or SLP Powder Pros?
Are the Woodies Duallie carbides any better than the Simmons for pure trail riding? If anybody has tried the Powder Pros, do they still dart?
- install 2.1 or 2.3 springs, and maybe drop them a bit.
- is it worth putting in the 12mm swaybar?
- Adjust limiter strap / control rods to transfer weight forward and lighten up the rear end a little.
Any suggestions welcome.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You've already got 2.1's on the front end. Try loosening them off a bit (and tightening the front limiter proportionally).
Don't bother trying to compare dual carbide skags to dual wearbar skis - totally different.
I've got an 03 with 2.3's, 11mm swaybar, longer links, and Simmons skis. I've ridden with an 98 XTC 600, and very easily hang corners harder than him. There is some push due to there being NO BASE, but I expect it to clean up when there is something for the skis to bite into.
Don't bother trying to compare dual carbide skags to dual wearbar skis - totally different.
I've got an 03 with 2.3's, 11mm swaybar, longer links, and Simmons skis. I've ridden with an 98 XTC 600, and very easily hang corners harder than him. There is some push due to there being NO BASE, but I expect it to clean up when there is something for the skis to bite into.
I found the simmons didn't make a huge difference in the corners on the warrior in somewhat loose snow. pull straps up a 1/4 inch at a time to get handling where you want, but steering will get harder.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The longer the track, the more it takes to steer it. No warrior can possibly steer as well as a 121.
boneman
Extreme
Tshelver My first ride on my Warrior was awesome the conditions were perfect we had about 20in. I waited two days to let it get packed, with all stock setup it rode awesome no ski lift and very little push in the corners, since then it has rained we had a couple in. snow and the conditions are crusty now on hard cornering big time ski lift so far I have drawn up the limiter about 3/8" didn't help much if anyone has any advice on what I should do for set up that would be great? I also tip the scales at about 220lb.
Thanks Bone
Thanks Bone
Quote:
- Front skis or carbides get changed out. Simmons Flexi dual runners, SLP SLTs or Powder Pros, or Woodies Duallie runners.
I have and like the SLP SLTs on the 700 (good flotation, good ride, eliminate darting, easy steering), but I don't know that there is enough carbide in the trail configuration to handle the Warrior, and getting rid of the spoon so I can install longer carbides is not going to cure the darting. How much heavier steering are the Simmons flexi skis or SLP Powder Pros?
Are the Woodies Duallie carbides any better than the Simmons for pure trail riding? If anybody has tried the Powder Pros, do they still dart?
Any suggestions welcome.[/quote]
Buy the Simmons skis. There is ZERO darting. You do have to use some "Body English" in the turns; like any other sled, but once you have it master you will gain more confidence going into a turn and before you know it you will be grabbing a handful of throttle mid-way through the turn and passing your friends on slower sleds (i.e. Pol, Doo, Cat) :wink:
Later.......
- Front skis or carbides get changed out. Simmons Flexi dual runners, SLP SLTs or Powder Pros, or Woodies Duallie runners.
I have and like the SLP SLTs on the 700 (good flotation, good ride, eliminate darting, easy steering), but I don't know that there is enough carbide in the trail configuration to handle the Warrior, and getting rid of the spoon so I can install longer carbides is not going to cure the darting. How much heavier steering are the Simmons flexi skis or SLP Powder Pros?
Are the Woodies Duallie carbides any better than the Simmons for pure trail riding? If anybody has tried the Powder Pros, do they still dart?
Any suggestions welcome.[/quote]
Buy the Simmons skis. There is ZERO darting. You do have to use some "Body English" in the turns; like any other sled, but once you have it master you will gain more confidence going into a turn and before you know it you will be grabbing a handful of throttle mid-way through the turn and passing your friends on slower sleds (i.e. Pol, Doo, Cat) :wink:
Later.......
tshelver
Pro
Thanks for the info. Will probably start by playing with the limiter strap and front preload. I'm guessing that another set of skis or different design carbide (definitely to reduce the darting) are in my future as well.
BTW, I was hanging off the sled as far as I could go Friday, and still getting ski lift.... It did help though.
Another thought is that the 4-stroke characteristics going into a corner and powering out are very different to a 2-smoke.
Thanks!
BTW, I was hanging off the sled as far as I could go Friday, and still getting ski lift.... It did help though.
Another thought is that the 4-stroke characteristics going into a corner and powering out are very different to a 2-smoke.
Thanks!
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I too noticed with the engine you have to come into a corner and leave a corner differently than on a two stroke!! Kinda strange to explain!!
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
Tshelver, get ahold of VMAXJOHN on this site. He has a great deal of experience with darting. He has a very simple fix. It is called shims. Let us know if/when you get this resolved.
vmaxjohn
Pro
If you're worried about darting and push in corners, I can recommend a Bergstrom skegs set up.
18" tri point wear bars in 1/2"
3/8" ski savers
From the looks of it, the warrior and RX1 share the same ski bumper. This automatically means the warrior will be more prone to dart, since it will have more pressure on the front of the skis. A simple shim will fix this, detail in the tech page, pics and all. Read the article I wrote on darting to explain.
www.bergstromskegs.com has tons of info on why darting occurs, and how to help it. I've found that ski alignment can be set a number of 'correct' ways, and the sled will still dart if there's too much pressure on the front of the skis.
I think Yamaha has dropped the ball on the ski bumpers between the RX1 and the Warrior. Example: The SRX and the SXR use the same ski bumper. It's the S code, and was designed for the SRX, a short travel sled. Put it in an SXR, wammo, too much pressure on the front of the ski, due to taller rear bumper height! Same with the WArrior.
I would think a 1/4" shim should put you about right, or any warrior for that matter.
You DO NOT NEED to replace the stock skis to get rid of darting, although every ski maker wants you to think so
Skisavers will help the push, keep your keels like new forever, and help reduce darting all at once, it just makes sense. The triple point carbides should last many seasons, and keep ya happy.
Good luck!
18" tri point wear bars in 1/2"
3/8" ski savers
From the looks of it, the warrior and RX1 share the same ski bumper. This automatically means the warrior will be more prone to dart, since it will have more pressure on the front of the skis. A simple shim will fix this, detail in the tech page, pics and all. Read the article I wrote on darting to explain.
www.bergstromskegs.com has tons of info on why darting occurs, and how to help it. I've found that ski alignment can be set a number of 'correct' ways, and the sled will still dart if there's too much pressure on the front of the skis.
I think Yamaha has dropped the ball on the ski bumpers between the RX1 and the Warrior. Example: The SRX and the SXR use the same ski bumper. It's the S code, and was designed for the SRX, a short travel sled. Put it in an SXR, wammo, too much pressure on the front of the ski, due to taller rear bumper height! Same with the WArrior.
I would think a 1/4" shim should put you about right, or any warrior for that matter.
You DO NOT NEED to replace the stock skis to get rid of darting, although every ski maker wants you to think so
Skisavers will help the push, keep your keels like new forever, and help reduce darting all at once, it just makes sense. The triple point carbides should last many seasons, and keep ya happy.
Good luck!
