Weight Transfer??

I do realize that comparing the SRX to the Viper is not a fair comparison, and the long track is definitely something to get used to... I never expected it to be the same, just want a bit better hookup then Im getting
 
wot-75 said:
What about getting on the gas hard in the middle of a corner?

If more weight is transferring to the rear when on the gas it stands to reason that this will have an impact on the cornering characteristics of the sled.

It seems that with more transfer you will need more of a point and shoot riding style for corners unless you can adjust the suspension in other ways to keep weight on the skis... but then that kind of defeats the purpose of adding more transfer.

It seems like a compromise to me.


This is what I too am struggling with. I kept the front floats on the Apex low so I could take corners at higher speed. However, it had the snap and traction with the ice ripper to lift the skis when I wanted. I was toying with playing around with the transfer when I started to wonder if its not actually a traction issue? I dont want to take any ski pressure away, but I still want to be able to make the front end light when required. It seems like every time I try, the track just spins and the clutches shift out because of it. Maybe if the traction wasnt lost the clutch wouldnt shift out and the skis would lift? I've really only had seat time under hardpack, almost icy trails so perhaps I should reserve judgment until later.
 
DigitalFusion said:
wot-75 said:
What about getting on the gas hard in the middle of a corner?

If more weight is transferring to the rear when on the gas it stands to reason that this will have an impact on the cornering characteristics of the sled.

It seems that with more transfer you will need more of a point and shoot riding style for corners unless you can adjust the suspension in other ways to keep weight on the skis... but then that kind of defeats the purpose of adding more transfer.

It seems like a compromise to me.


This is what I too am struggling with. I kept the front floats on the Apex low so I could take corners at higher speed. However, it had the snap and traction with the ice ripper to lift the skis when I wanted. I was toying with playing around with the transfer when I started to wonder if its not actually a traction issue? I dont want to take any ski pressure away, but I still want to be able to make the front end light when required. It seems like every time I try, the track just spins and the clutches shift out because of it. Maybe if the traction wasnt lost the clutch wouldnt shift out and the skis would lift? I've really only had seat time under hardpack, almost icy trails so perhaps I should reserve judgment until later.

We ride snow not ice but every time you pop the throttle from a stop it lifts the skis. XTX by the way. Remember this sled has alot more percentage of weight on the track than an Apex and adjust accordingly. Experiment a bit or take my settings (that I took from my M8) and go from there.

front 65lbs
skid front shock mid way
skid rear shock 120
limiter stock
 
DigitalFusion said:
wot-75 said:
What about getting on the gas hard in the middle of a corner?

If more weight is transferring to the rear when on the gas it stands to reason that this will have an impact on the cornering characteristics of the sled.

It seems that with more transfer you will need more of a point and shoot riding style for corners unless you can adjust the suspension in other ways to keep weight on the skis... but then that kind of defeats the purpose of adding more transfer.

It seems like a compromise to me.


This is what I too am struggling with. I kept the front floats on the Apex low so I could take corners at higher speed. However, it had the snap and traction with the ice ripper to lift the skis when I wanted. I was toying with playing around with the transfer when I started to wonder if its not actually a traction issue? I dont want to take any ski pressure away, but I still want to be able to make the front end light when required. It seems like every time I try, the track just spins and the clutches shift out because of it. Maybe if the traction wasnt lost the clutch wouldnt shift out and the skis would lift? I've really only had seat time under hardpack, almost icy trails so perhaps I should reserve judgment until later.

The ONLY characteristic of the Ripsaw II that I like is that it slides laterally on corner entry which helps keep the inside ski planted (plus it's a really cool feeling when it happens!) and helps get the machine turned. You do have to be riding very aggressively for the rear to slide though, or so it seems. Other than that I'm not impressed with straightline traction... especially on extreme hard pack or ice so you could be on to something.

I have Evol's on my sled so I don't really have a need to lift the front as I've yet to come across anything the front suspension couldn't handle. It would be fun to get a little more lift for those times when you're caught in really bad woops... but then I think I would need to stiffen up the rear to compensate for the extra work it will have to do.

It's all a compromise! lol
 
stingray719 said:
DigitalFusion said:
wot-75 said:
What about getting on the gas hard in the middle of a corner?

If more weight is transferring to the rear when on the gas it stands to reason that this will have an impact on the cornering characteristics of the sled.

It seems that with more transfer you will need more of a point and shoot riding style for corners unless you can adjust the suspension in other ways to keep weight on the skis... but then that kind of defeats the purpose of adding more transfer.

It seems like a compromise to me.


This is what I too am struggling with. I kept the front floats on the Apex low so I could take corners at higher speed. However, it had the snap and traction with the ice ripper to lift the skis when I wanted. I was toying with playing around with the transfer when I started to wonder if its not actually a traction issue? I dont want to take any ski pressure away, but I still want to be able to make the front end light when required. It seems like every time I try, the track just spins and the clutches shift out because of it. Maybe if the traction wasnt lost the clutch wouldnt shift out and the skis would lift? I've really only had seat time under hardpack, almost icy trails so perhaps I should reserve judgment until later.

We ride snow not ice but every time you pop the throttle from a stop it lifts the skis. XTX by the way. Remember this sled has alot more percentage of weight on the track than an Apex and adjust accordingly. Experiment a bit or take my settings (that I took from my M8) and go from there.

front 65lbs
skid front shock mid way
skid rear shock 120
limiter stock

Right on.. but we have LTX's.... The XTX is designed to lift the skis.
 
wot-75 said:
stingray719 said:
DigitalFusion said:
wot-75 said:
What about getting on the gas hard in the middle of a corner?

If more weight is transferring to the rear when on the gas it stands to reason that this will have an impact on the cornering characteristics of the sled.

It seems that with more transfer you will need more of a point and shoot riding style for corners unless you can adjust the suspension in other ways to keep weight on the skis... but then that kind of defeats the purpose of adding more transfer.

It seems like a compromise to me.


This is what I too am struggling with. I kept the front floats on the Apex low so I could take corners at higher speed. However, it had the snap and traction with the ice ripper to lift the skis when I wanted. I was toying with playing around with the transfer when I started to wonder if its not actually a traction issue? I dont want to take any ski pressure away, but I still want to be able to make the front end light when required. It seems like every time I try, the track just spins and the clutches shift out because of it. Maybe if the traction wasnt lost the clutch wouldnt shift out and the skis would lift? I've really only had seat time under hardpack, almost icy trails so perhaps I should reserve judgment until later.

We ride snow not ice but every time you pop the throttle from a stop it lifts the skis. XTX by the way. Remember this sled has alot more percentage of weight on the track than an Apex and adjust accordingly. Experiment a bit or take my settings (that I took from my M8) and go from there.

front 65lbs
skid front shock mid way
skid rear shock 120
limiter stock

Right on.. but we have LTX's.... The XTX is designed to lift the skis.


Ahhh....good to know. Thanks!


.
 
wot-75 said:
DigitalFusion said:
wot-75 said:
What about getting on the gas hard in the middle of a corner?

If more weight is transferring to the rear when on the gas it stands to reason that this will have an impact on the cornering characteristics of the sled.

It seems that with more transfer you will need more of a point and shoot riding style for corners unless you can adjust the suspension in other ways to keep weight on the skis... but then that kind of defeats the purpose of adding more transfer.

It seems like a compromise to me.


This is what I too am struggling with. I kept the front floats on the Apex low so I could take corners at higher speed. However, it had the snap and traction with the ice ripper to lift the skis when I wanted. I was toying with playing around with the transfer when I started to wonder if its not actually a traction issue? I dont want to take any ski pressure away, but I still want to be able to make the front end light when required. It seems like every time I try, the track just spins and the clutches shift out because of it. Maybe if the traction wasnt lost the clutch wouldnt shift out and the skis would lift? I've really only had seat time under hardpack, almost icy trails so perhaps I should reserve judgment until later.

The ONLY characteristic of the Ripsaw II that I like is that it slides laterally on corner entry which helps keep the inside ski planted (plus it's a really cool feeling when it happens!) and helps get the machine turned. You do have to be riding very aggressively for the rear to slide though, or so it seems. Other than that I'm not impressed with straightline traction... especially on extreme hard pack or ice so you could be on to something.

I have Evol's on my sled so I don't really have a need to lift the front as I've yet to come across anything the front suspension couldn't handle. It would be fun to get a little more lift for those times when you're caught in really bad woops... but then I think I would need to stiffen up the rear to compensate for the extra work it will have to do.

It's all a compromise! lol
Are you guys running studs ?
I put 90 studs in and it really changed the sled , stock I didn't get inside ski lift and how it's always trying to lift the inside ski, I was thinking it was the skis but I can't get the rear to break loose and slide though the corner so I'm thinking about taking the studs out , I've been adjusting everything and I end up putting back to stock .

This is where I'm at now
Rear at medium
Center shock has a 1/4in preload
Ski shocks 75psi
SLP powder pros 6" car.
90 studs in middle
 
no studs, but I was used to (and am thinking of going with again) the ice ripper track. its like having studs, but not as aggressive.
 
Try just stiffening up the rear suspension on the spring adjusters. I have had mine on the softest settings for 600 miles. Moved them to the middle setting tonight because I could feel the suspension was starting to loosen up nicely so I wanted to try that and see how it felt. It rode better and I was able to get the feeling of more weight transfer because it was taking more to get the skid to bottom to where it hit the transfer blocks resulting in me being able to pop the front end over the bumps and on a good hard pack the front end would come up and hold there and the track never spun out. This is how the sled felt when I first removed the transfer blocks but since then the suspension has softened up. From my outlook you need to keep the skid from hitting the transfer blocks to get maximum traction and I'm thinkin the best way to do that is just stiffen up the suspension. Worth a shot as it's just a simple turn of the blocks..don't like it then u stop on the side of the trail and flip them back
 
09nytro said:
Are you guys running studs ?
I put 90 studs in and it really changed the sled , stock I didn't get inside ski lift and how it's always trying to lift the inside ski, I was thinking it was the skis but I can't get the rear to break loose and slide though the corner so I'm thinking about taking the studs out , I've been adjusting everything and I end up putting back to stock .

This is where I'm at now
Rear at medium
Center shock has a 1/4in preload
Ski shocks 75psi
SLP powder pros 6" car.
90 studs in middle

No studs for me, but yeah, I can totally see how that would impact the way it turns. If you were closer I'd let you take mine to see if you like it without before going through that hassle! lol
 
Well that would be nice of you ! I did ride with out stud when I first got it and it was really fun to ride with stock ski and 4" carbide , I didn't think 90 studs would make it this tight in corners , I was thinking also about every other row so that would be 45 studs . Well I guess I got some thinking to do ! :o|
 
take a serious look at the ice ripper and/or ice attak tracks. Its like having studs, but you can still drift/powerslide in the corners if you set it up with a lot of ski pressure. Combine that with a good set of carbides and you can take any corner with 100% confidence
 


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