RTX Weight Transfer Rod

[Turtle]

So I’ve been running my RTX with the coupling blocks removed, but the shaft still in, for a couple years. I really like how it rides, like the weight transfer, and the overall playfulness of the sled. I’ve heard from others about removing the shaft completely. I understand how the ride and handing will change, and that you can pull super wheelies. But my biggest concern is around the slide action front part of the skid. I have this fear that without the weight transfer shaft, the front pivot arm will somehow pull completely out of the cross shaft, and very bad things will happen very quickly. Can anyone confirm if this is possible?

 

[gpxsrx]

So I’ve been running my RTX with the coupling blocks removed, but the shaft still in, for a couple years. I really like how it rides, like the weight transfer, and the overall playfulness of the sled. I’ve heard from others about removing the shaft completely. I understand how the ride and handing will change, and that you can pull super wheelies. But my biggest concern is around the slide action front part of the skid. I have this fear that without the weight transfer shaft, the front pivot arm will somehow pull completely out of the cross shaft, and very bad things will happen very quickly. Can anyone confirm if this is possible?

I had mine out since day one no issues lots of transfer just have to learn how to drive sled around corners. RTX have 7" rear idlers other models have 8 inch and might hit rear idlers. Make sure to shorten front straps dont leave them at the longest setting.

 

[Turtle]

What happens if you leave the straps long and take the transfer rod out? I have the straps at the longest setting now.

 

[SnoNinja]

I have limiters on LTX all the way out, and the shaft out, and no problems. I don't believe it's possible for the slid action to come off because in order for that to happen skid would have to move rearward, and there are forward stops ahead of the lower part of the rearrange that prevent the skid form moving in that direction too far. No guarantees that it's not possible, but I've yet to hear of anything bad happening. I ride off trail and have had the rear suspension in every possible combination of travel, and no issues on my LTX.

 

[gpxsrx]

What happens if you leave the straps long and take the transfer rod out? I have the straps at the longest setting now.

If you leave them at there longest setting it will just transfer forever takes some getting use to but if you like your skis in the air on hard acceleration go for it. I have a 190 turbo and i have mine shortened and mine will pull the skis in the air to 100mph. But like i said when you come to a corner and crack the throttle the skis will lift and no steering. Even with mine when you come to a corner let off, get sled pointing straight then pull the trigger.

 

[Turtle]

COOL! I gotta try this. I might end up hating it. But I have to try it just to settle my curiosity.

 

[SnoNinja]

COOL! I gotta try this. I might end up hating it. But I have to try it just to settle my curiosity.

If you like to catwalk the sled, you love it. Great fun off trail with a big of snow depth

 

[Turtle]

Following up on this thread. I gave it a try and completely removed the transfer rod. You ain't kidding!!! You can lift the skis at will! Cruising along and just nailing the throttle will lift the skis high up. Catwalking till the cows come home. For trail riding, I didn't think it was that bad at all. With a slight adjustment of my right thumb and learning to move my weight a bit different, I had it cornering just the same as with the rod in. But I did notice in rougher trails and in the chop, it didn't ride quite a good as with the rod in. The tail end seemed to buck a bit more. I guess if I gave it more seat time, I could dial that out with a rebound adjustment.

But as fun as it was with the rod removed, I ended up putting it back in. For the trail riding I do, I liked the better suspension compliance. If I plan to do any off-trail riding, it will certainly come out for the day. And I may even spend a bit more time with it next year adjusting the rebound.

 

[rbell14]

Glad it worked for you.

To your earlier question, I think the track tension pushes the rear wheels firm against the track and locks the skid to the cross shaft so it basically can't come off due to tension.

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Sounds pretty fun. I am planing on removing the blocks next year. Not sure I need to go as far as removing the sheft though...

 

[Turtle]

Glad it worked for you.

To your earlier question, I think the track tension pushes the rear wheels firm against the track and locks the skid to the cross shaft so it basically can't come off due to tension.

I would agree - but thinking that would only be the case when you are under power. I think to be safe, there is really only one way to verify. A person could remove the skid and do a mock up. Make up some fake side plates to represent the tunnel and mount up the front torque arm cross shaft. Then remove the spring, but leave the shocks in place. Now you could work the skid through it's entire travel at all kinds of weird angles and see if the torque arm at any time slides off the cross shaft.

hmmmm .... might be a good summer time project ......

 

[SnoNinja]

I would agree - but thinking that would only be the case when you are under power. I think to be safe, there is really only one way to verify. A person could remove the skid and do a mock up. Make up some fake side plates to represent the tunnel and mount up the front torque arm cross shaft. Then remove the spring, but leave the shocks in place. Now you could work the skid through it's entire travel at all kinds of weird angles and see if the torque arm at any time slides off the cross shaft.

hmmmm .... might be a good summer time project ......

Geometry will not allow it. The only way that front arm can come off is to move rails to the rear, and front arm along with it. There are stops that prevent the skid from moving back. The rear scissor bottoms against them when the skid moves back. When that happens the rear arm swings up which prevents any further rearward movement. Removing the rear rod does not affect this whatsoever. It only allows the rear scissor to collapse without having to compress the front shock, and that is where the transfer is improved. Removing the rod did not change the relationship between the the rear scissor and the front arm mounts.