adirondac blue
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
In the primary, what transmits more power to the track. More wieght and more spring pressure or less wieght and less spring pressure. I have a mpi s/c on a 07 attack. Right now I have supertips at 75 grams and a oso primary spring. Secondary is a dalton 54-44 and a white at 3-3.I was thinking dalton blue or green primary.
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2003
- Messages
- 2,010
- Reaction score
- 15
- Points
- 1,198
- Location
- Waterbury Ct.
- Website
- www.jannettyracing.com
adirondac blue said:
Spring pressure cancels out weight so it is a toss up.
There is a Theory that Lighter weights and springs are more efficient because of lower friction, but this is not something you will ever be able to prove on a multipurpose sled.
I think as long as you are not to either extreme you will be OK.
I like the Dalton Green, STM weights, and Yamaha White Secondary with Dalton Helix for type of riding.
Ted.
adirondac blue
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks ted, playing with a new setup.
Turk
Tech Advisor
Diferrent day; diferent conditions; different results. I use a light primary spring & as little weight as I can. I have clutched a lot of turbo sleds. The formula that seems to work best
lightest primary spring i can run with out bogging on engagement
light weights possible to run proper rpm,s with out over or undershifting
helix as close to stock as posssible using stock secondary spring with out slipping the belt in the secondary.
This might not work the best 100% of the time but all the turbo sleds I have set up seem to perform very well.
The Clutches run cool & with no belt slip. There are probably exceptions but it,s a formula that works for me.
lightest primary spring i can run with out bogging on engagement
light weights possible to run proper rpm,s with out over or undershifting
helix as close to stock as posssible using stock secondary spring with out slipping the belt in the secondary.
This might not work the best 100% of the time but all the turbo sleds I have set up seem to perform very well.
The Clutches run cool & with no belt slip. There are probably exceptions but it,s a formula that works for me.
So what combination transmits the most power … the one with the perfect amount pressure for the load.
For this analogy the rope is your belt and your hands are the clutch.
You have a rope strung off the side of a tall building … at the top of the building you have an engine connected to that rope … you grab a hold of the rope … you can control your rate of ascent by adjusting the your grip on the rope (force or pressure or squeeze) … too little grip on the rope and the friction causes excessive heat, damages your hands, the rope, and the engine over-revs … too much grip on the rope and the pressure causes excessive drag, damages your hands, crushes the rope, and the engine under-revs … the maximum rate of ascent will be attained with the proper amount of force or pressure or squeeze on the rope.
There is no magical one-size-fits-all answer because there are so many variables to consider … Total Vehicle Weight, Clutch Weight, Spring Force, Helix Angle, Gear Ratio, Driver Diameter, Track Length, Lug Height, Traction Devices, Horsepower, Terrain, Climate, and Traction … A change in any of these variables will change the pressure required … Increase your horsepower with boost or your traction or both and it will require an increase in pressure for the clutches to maintain their grip on the belt (if it was correct to begin with that is).
If you want to educate yourself start with Dale Cutlers and Olav Aaens clutch tuning handbooks … Once you get your general understanding go out and field-test for your setup and your conditions … You can lose 50% or more of your engines horsepower in the drive train … Poor clutching only makes it worse … Example: Two sleds are making the same horsepower, one is setup perfect putting 60% of its horsepower to the ground, and the other is poorly clutched only 40% of it’s horsepower to the ground … The winner will always be mister 60%, the guy who did his homework, got himself educated, and field tested for best results.
For this analogy the rope is your belt and your hands are the clutch.
You have a rope strung off the side of a tall building … at the top of the building you have an engine connected to that rope … you grab a hold of the rope … you can control your rate of ascent by adjusting the your grip on the rope (force or pressure or squeeze) … too little grip on the rope and the friction causes excessive heat, damages your hands, the rope, and the engine over-revs … too much grip on the rope and the pressure causes excessive drag, damages your hands, crushes the rope, and the engine under-revs … the maximum rate of ascent will be attained with the proper amount of force or pressure or squeeze on the rope.
There is no magical one-size-fits-all answer because there are so many variables to consider … Total Vehicle Weight, Clutch Weight, Spring Force, Helix Angle, Gear Ratio, Driver Diameter, Track Length, Lug Height, Traction Devices, Horsepower, Terrain, Climate, and Traction … A change in any of these variables will change the pressure required … Increase your horsepower with boost or your traction or both and it will require an increase in pressure for the clutches to maintain their grip on the belt (if it was correct to begin with that is).
If you want to educate yourself start with Dale Cutlers and Olav Aaens clutch tuning handbooks … Once you get your general understanding go out and field-test for your setup and your conditions … You can lose 50% or more of your engines horsepower in the drive train … Poor clutching only makes it worse … Example: Two sleds are making the same horsepower, one is setup perfect putting 60% of its horsepower to the ground, and the other is poorly clutched only 40% of it’s horsepower to the ground … The winner will always be mister 60%, the guy who did his homework, got himself educated, and field tested for best results.
adirondac blue
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Hammer, I love your comments. This time I learned to wear leather gloves when I jump off a building. I guess I need this fall to get the sled on a track dyno.
A track dyno is only good for a baseline ... it always has and always will take testing on-the-snow to find the correct clutching combination for your specific setup and your specific conditions ... Ulmer Racing uses a track dyno AND field tests for your specific setup and your specific conditions (short track, supercharger, low-elevation) ... Would be money well spent in my opinion.
Best shop tag line I've seen ... (and it's the truth) ...
You're not just buying a product, you're buying the customer service, and the knowledge of Ulmer Racing that go with it!
Best shop tag line I've seen ... (and it's the truth) ...
You're not just buying a product, you're buying the customer service, and the knowledge of Ulmer Racing that go with it!
