Hi guys!
Been a while since the last update here, we suddenly got alot to do at work so I havent had time to work on the engine.
Dimebag is currently enjoying a visit across the pond so I am basically working without a permit cause I know he really wants to take part in the rebuild.
However today I went in the garage and finished cleaning the upper block, I also put in the new crankase bearings and checked clearances with plastigauge.
This is my first time using plastigauge but I do think that I did everything correct.
I did use all the torque methods claimed by the manual, which is first 15nm on the main bolts, then loosen, then 15nm again, then angle torqued to 70degrees. I also installed all the other bolts and used correct torque.
To my amazement the clearance on J1 was too much as it was over 0,045. Take a look at the photo below.
The clearance is suppost to be 0,027 - 0,045
J2 was 0,040 (+) ,
J3 - 0,040 (+)
J4 was 0,035
As you can see it is just alittle over. I did remeasure it and got the same result. I did not try to rotate the crank alittle before the last measurement but I shouldnt make any difference at all.
So I guess we will have to go for the next bearing giving us less clearance. ?.
Now there is a RED bearing in J1, what should we go for now?
2 BLACK
3 BROWN
4 GREEN
5 YELLOW
6 PINK
7 RED
8 WHITE
I guess pink will be the next bearing? Is White the bearing with most clearance and Black the one with least clearance?
I find it wierd that the correct clearances arent obtained when doing as per manual, but again the manual sais to check clearances with plastigauge so..
.
Tomorrow I will be checking the rod bearings, will get back to you on that.
Dimebags sled before we removed the engine.
And last a picture of my Nytro
Been a while since the last update here, we suddenly got alot to do at work so I havent had time to work on the engine.
Dimebag is currently enjoying a visit across the pond so I am basically working without a permit cause I know he really wants to take part in the rebuild.
However today I went in the garage and finished cleaning the upper block, I also put in the new crankase bearings and checked clearances with plastigauge.
This is my first time using plastigauge but I do think that I did everything correct.
I did use all the torque methods claimed by the manual, which is first 15nm on the main bolts, then loosen, then 15nm again, then angle torqued to 70degrees. I also installed all the other bolts and used correct torque.
To my amazement the clearance on J1 was too much as it was over 0,045. Take a look at the photo below.
The clearance is suppost to be 0,027 - 0,045
J2 was 0,040 (+) ,
J3 - 0,040 (+)
J4 was 0,035
As you can see it is just alittle over. I did remeasure it and got the same result. I did not try to rotate the crank alittle before the last measurement but I shouldnt make any difference at all.
So I guess we will have to go for the next bearing giving us less clearance. ?.
Now there is a RED bearing in J1, what should we go for now?
2 BLACK
3 BROWN
4 GREEN
5 YELLOW
6 PINK
7 RED
8 WHITE
I guess pink will be the next bearing? Is White the bearing with most clearance and Black the one with least clearance?
I find it wierd that the correct clearances arent obtained when doing as per manual, but again the manual sais to check clearances with plastigauge so..
.
Tomorrow I will be checking the rod bearings, will get back to you on that.
Dimebags sled before we removed the engine.
And last a picture of my Nytro
Anyone?
This morning when I was lying in bed I started wondering wether an option could be to swap J4 with J1 since J4 had the least clearance of them all and J1 had the most?
This morning when I was lying in bed I started wondering wether an option could be to swap J4 with J1 since J4 had the least clearance of them all and J1 had the most?
mike3577
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2009
- Messages
- 309
- Location
- auburn hills,mi
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 09 nytro xtx, 8 inch slydog powederhounds, mbrp silencer, ulmer racing clutching, fast track studs,cr10ek sparkplugs,
well if its a new crank and bearings the clearence should be right on? Right?
Hi !
mike3577, yes I guess but since the manual sais to check clearances with plastigauge I guess there is a reason for it. ?
Today I went in the garage and checked all rod bearings, 0,035 , 0,040 and 0,040.
So all checked out OK.
One thing I noticed whilst installing the rod bearings in the rods was that the sharp edges of the rod tended to scuff some material off the backside of the bearing when you pushed it in place, I didnt like this. I removed the bearings just to make sure that no metal particles was trapped between the rod/bearing but it was OK so I put them back in.
Clearance is by the way supposed to be 0,033 - 0,050.
I then tried to swapping J1 crancase bearing with J4 crankcase bearing and then re-plastigauged. Now all the clearances was OK. So as per numbers on the crank/crankcase I now have two bearings in wrong places but according to plastigauge this is more correct so I will go with this setup! Anyone disagree?
When the clearances were checked I fit the new pistons and rings, I checked the end gaps of the rings and all were OK. When installing the oilscraper ring I found that it was easiest to put the "spring" in first and then put the two thin rings in place.
When installing the rodbolts make sure that the heads of the bolts are aligned with the groove in the rod and pay attention to see that they do not hit the edge on the rod before they are fully "seated".
Next step will be to actually start assembling it!
mike3577, yes I guess but since the manual sais to check clearances with plastigauge I guess there is a reason for it. ?
Today I went in the garage and checked all rod bearings, 0,035 , 0,040 and 0,040.
So all checked out OK.
One thing I noticed whilst installing the rod bearings in the rods was that the sharp edges of the rod tended to scuff some material off the backside of the bearing when you pushed it in place, I didnt like this. I removed the bearings just to make sure that no metal particles was trapped between the rod/bearing but it was OK so I put them back in.
Clearance is by the way supposed to be 0,033 - 0,050.
I then tried to swapping J1 crancase bearing with J4 crankcase bearing and then re-plastigauged. Now all the clearances was OK. So as per numbers on the crank/crankcase I now have two bearings in wrong places but according to plastigauge this is more correct so I will go with this setup! Anyone disagree?
When the clearances were checked I fit the new pistons and rings, I checked the end gaps of the rings and all were OK. When installing the oilscraper ring I found that it was easiest to put the "spring" in first and then put the two thin rings in place.
When installing the rodbolts make sure that the heads of the bolts are aligned with the groove in the rod and pay attention to see that they do not hit the edge on the rod before they are fully "seated".
Next step will be to actually start assembling it!
Dimebag
TY 4 Stroke God
Nice work Joakim 
The Beer in Key West tastes even better when I know the bearing clearances are okay.
The Beer in Key West tastes even better when I know the bearing clearances are okay.
Thanks Dime!
Today I went back in the garage to assemble some more. (Sorry for working without you Dime, let me know if it`s not allright).
I removed the old oil cooler and ble through all the oil lines in crankcase. Behind the oilcooler there was spot were bearing metal had gathered so I am glad we removed it. Installed the new oilcooler with 10nm and loctite 243 on the screws.
I then installed the pistons which actually was a pain in the #*$&@ before I got the hang of it. I have installed many pistons in my life but never had the ones with this type of oilscraper ring (3 parts). When using the pistonring compressor the piston stopped when the scraperring hit the cylinder, tried several times but no luck. So I ended up with removing the compressor when the piston stopped and then carefully tap the crown of the piston with the back of a screwdriver, the top rings were easy to compress with a couple of flat screwdrivers. (carefully tho).
I then tightened the rod bolts with the 20nm and then 120degrees.
Tomorrow I will put the chains on and guides and install the lower crankcase/oilpump. Maybe the head will be installed too.. we`ll see
Are there anyone here that has alot of knowledge on the oil lubrication system on the Nytro?
Are the camshafts/head lubed through the two holes/channels coming from the crankcase? Does the oil splash around everywhere in the head? And then seeps down into the crankcase through the cam chain area?
One thing I wonder is if there are oil cooling jets for the pistons or if the holes are there to make oil enter the crankcase bearings??
Today I went back in the garage to assemble some more. (Sorry for working without you Dime, let me know if it`s not allright).
I removed the old oil cooler and ble through all the oil lines in crankcase. Behind the oilcooler there was spot were bearing metal had gathered so I am glad we removed it. Installed the new oilcooler with 10nm and loctite 243 on the screws.
I then installed the pistons which actually was a pain in the #*$&@ before I got the hang of it. I have installed many pistons in my life but never had the ones with this type of oilscraper ring (3 parts). When using the pistonring compressor the piston stopped when the scraperring hit the cylinder, tried several times but no luck. So I ended up with removing the compressor when the piston stopped and then carefully tap the crown of the piston with the back of a screwdriver, the top rings were easy to compress with a couple of flat screwdrivers. (carefully tho).
I then tightened the rod bolts with the 20nm and then 120degrees.
Tomorrow I will put the chains on and guides and install the lower crankcase/oilpump. Maybe the head will be installed too.. we`ll see
Are there anyone here that has alot of knowledge on the oil lubrication system on the Nytro?
Are the camshafts/head lubed through the two holes/channels coming from the crankcase? Does the oil splash around everywhere in the head? And then seeps down into the crankcase through the cam chain area?
One thing I wonder is if there are oil cooling jets for the pistons or if the holes are there to make oil enter the crankcase bearings??
Yo!
Today I installed:
-Lower crankcase
-Oilpump
-Oil pan
-Cam chain guides
-Flywheel and stator cover
I removed the stator from the cover cause I could see some bearing metal behind the stator so I figured it was best to remove it to get it thorougly cleaned.
Tomorrow the head will be installed along with the cams and I will check the valve clearance, if all clearances are OK maybe I will finish the build tomorrow. Also the MCX oilpump has to be installed.
Cant want for Dimebag to come back home so that we can put in the sled and fire it up!
Today I installed:
-Lower crankcase
-Oilpump
-Oil pan
-Cam chain guides
-Flywheel and stator cover
I removed the stator from the cover cause I could see some bearing metal behind the stator so I figured it was best to remove it to get it thorougly cleaned.
Tomorrow the head will be installed along with the cams and I will check the valve clearance, if all clearances are OK maybe I will finish the build tomorrow. Also the MCX oilpump has to be installed.
Cant want for Dimebag to come back home so that we can put in the sled and fire it up!
Dimebag
TY 4 Stroke God
Friggin awesome! Dec 6th after work - Its a date!
Hi guys!
Today we started the engine and everything went fine!
We were close to having a nervous breakdown before pushing the start button but it went fine.
Will keep you posted after dimebag has put some miles on it!
Today we started the engine and everything went fine!
We were close to having a nervous breakdown before pushing the start button but it went fine
.Will keep you posted after dimebag has put some miles on it!
mike3577
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2009
- Messages
- 309
- Location
- auburn hills,mi
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 09 nytro xtx, 8 inch slydog powederhounds, mbrp silencer, ulmer racing clutching, fast track studs,cr10ek sparkplugs,
Sweet!glad everything worked out good
Dimebag
TY 4 Stroke God
Life is good - In the Yamaha garage.
natedawgedog
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Dimebag said:Life is good - In the Yamaha garage.
and video!
Dimebag
TY 4 Stroke God
Tarzan
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2009
- Messages
- 861
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Norway
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Nytro and SideWinder BTX
Great to hear that the engine is just fine
Great job!
Great job!
Dimebag
TY 4 Stroke God
All honor goes to kimoajaj. He made it happen
