trailrider08
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Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Its best to change at the end of the season actually.
Also, yamaha 4 strokes are quality motors and dont get alot of contaminents in the oil, thus it stays cleaner and lighter for longer, so either change it when it starts getting dark or on your annual service interval, which ever comes first. 2500miles is a good interval, but you could go much longer.
Also, yamaha 4 strokes are quality motors and dont get alot of contaminents in the oil, thus it stays cleaner and lighter for longer, so either change it when it starts getting dark or on your annual service interval, which ever comes first. 2500miles is a good interval, but you could go much longer.
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yamahammer485 said:Its best to change at the end of the season actually.
I disagree, I believe it is best to change your oil at the beginning of the season. Of course if you want to change it at the end and the beginning of the season then go for it but that is a big waste of money and time. Whatever you do, DO NOT let the oil sit in your sled all summer then start it up in the winter and go ride for a few thousand miles.
I change my oil before the winter season and that's it since I rarely go over 2,000 miles in one winter. The majority of the oil sits in the oil tank and not the engine (dry sump) so you are not harming the engine by having old oil sit there as long as you don't plan on running it with that old oil in it.


Sasquatch
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Best to change at end of season. Then run the motor (now refilled with fresh oil and additives) up to temp flushing out any of the old oil from your bearings etc. Reason is the old oil contains acid substances that can and will eat at your bearings and stuff.
This is the recommended way to do it. END OF SEASON!
This would be a good time to then get the gas now treated with sea foam (my fav) into the carbs and engine. Last is a quick fog of the motor and shut it off.
I change the filter everytime as well, I don't care what Yami says about every second oil change. Sure it takes a little more time to do an oil change but new oil = new filter.
Dump the old and fill with new for the summer storage. When winter comes your good to go!
This is the recommended way to do it. END OF SEASON!
This would be a good time to then get the gas now treated with sea foam (my fav) into the carbs and engine. Last is a quick fog of the motor and shut it off.
I change the filter everytime as well, I don't care what Yami says about every second oil change. Sure it takes a little more time to do an oil change but new oil = new filter.
Dump the old and fill with new for the summer storage. When winter comes your good to go!


pat the rat
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i know everydody says to change oil at season's end,but me,ive always done the opposite,in the spring when the season is done,i dont feel like working on my sleds,im thinking quads,so i store my sled for the summer and change the oil in october just before the season starts,i start my sled 5 to 6 times in the summer,i have over 25 000 miles of yammi 4 stroke seat time and ive never had oil burning issues or any other issue with those engines,its just to say that it doesnt have to be done exactly like the book,those are good motors,i do change the oil every 2500 miles +or- 200 miles,my 2 cent


pat the rat
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RedRocket said:Yamahammer485 said:Its best to change at the end of the season actually.
I disagree, I believe it is best to change your oil at the beginning of the season. Of course if you want to change it at the end and the beginning of the season then go for it but that is a big waste of money and time. Whatever you do, DO NOT let the oil sit in your sled all summer then start it up in the winter and go ride for a few thousand miles.
I change my oil before the winter season and that's it since I rarely go over 2,000 miles in one winter. The majority of the oil sits in the oil tank and not the engine (dry sump) so you are not harming the engine by having old oil sit there as long as you don't plan on running it with that old oil in it.
x2


Sasquatch
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Well accually he asked I guess if you have to change it at 2500 miles or could he wait to end of season. End of season works for me. Sometimes I have 3500 miles on the oil when I change it in the spring.
I don't run my sled all summer any more, I find it carbons up to much. Each to their own as far as when to change oil. But I think if you leave it sit all summer fresh oil is a better idea!
I don't run my sled all summer any more, I find it carbons up to much. Each to their own as far as when to change oil. But I think if you leave it sit all summer fresh oil is a better idea!
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sasquatch said:I don't run my sled all summer any more, I find it carbons up to much. Each to their own as far as when to change oil. But I think if you leave it sit all summer fresh oil is a better idea!
I agree about not running the sled in the summer months, it creates unnecessary moisture and does no good. The difference in when you change oil whether it be at the end or beginning of the season is this, when I first ride my sled in the winter it has brand new fresh oil in it whereas those who change it at the end of the season and not again in winter have oil that has been sitting in a metal tank through varying temps from cool Spring mornings to hot Summer days and back to cool Fall nights which has now been broken down and contaminated with condensation. Which would you rather have in your engine...?
As far as the original question, that depends on the oil used. If it was a synthetic oil such as the YamaLube then no it does not need to be changed right at 2,500 miles. I have yet to put on more then 2,500 miles in one season so mine gets changed more often but I would not hesitate to run it up to 3,000 or even 3,500 in one season with synthetic oil. I change the filter yearly but if I were to put on 5-6,000 miles per season I would still change the filter yearly and not with every 3,000 miles oil change.


Sasquatch
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RedRocket said:The difference in when you change oil whether it be at the end or beginning of the season is this, when I first ride my sled in the winter it has brand new fresh oil in it whereas those who change it at the end of the season and not again in winter have oil that has been sitting in a metal tank through varying temps from cool Spring mornings to hot Summer days and back to cool Fall nights which has now been broken down and contaminated with condensation. Which would you rather have in your engine...?
Ahh but if you leave the old oil in your sled all summer you still would have condensation in both the motor and the oil tank. Unless you run the motor up to temp and hold it there long enough to burn off all the moisture it will remain in the motor and even in the oil tank. True you will get rid of some of the moisture on the oil dump but you will still have to burn that moisture off on your first real sled run. Warming it up to temp in the shop will not get rid of the moisture.
That moisture also will not mix with the fresh oil over the summer to contaminate it. Nor will the oil breakdown without usage. Oil is constantly being subjected to moisture from the air in the winter as well. That small amount of moisture will burn off on the first run.
So if you change the oil in the spring you have fresh oil with minimal acids to eat at your motor. If you change it in the fall you have lots of acids eating at the motor all summer. Plus all the additives in the oil have burnt away giving even less protection. The fresh oil has all fresh additives coating the surfaces.
Both motors will have some moisture in them. The one with the fresh oil will have no acids to assist the moisture while the one with the old worn out oil will have plenty of acids working with the moisture to destroy all that they contact. Both motors will need to be run for more then twenty minutes to remove all moisture. Both will run first time out with a small amount of moisture in them. Both will return with it gone.
Plus unless there are very rapid changes in temp, condensation is less then minimal. Now if you store your sled uncovered with three feet of grass growing around it totally unprotected from the elements you can expect more moisture. But if you cover it and let it breath while parked in a shaded well vented area up off the ground with nothing growing around it. Such as a lean to on the side of your garage or a car port attached to the house (if you can't store it indoors or in a covered trailer), then condensation in the tank and motor is not an issue. Once a year oil change is fine.
In the other case I would change the oil twice. Once in the spring and once in the fall. Once to get rid of the acid and once to drain the water out of it (note I said water not moisture) before I even started it.
I store my sled indoors in my insulated vapor barrier garage. Its my baby it sleeps inside like I do! Bottom line is we all do things differently and all have our beliefs. Stored properly with some consideration given to the sled it will last a long time. That is the key. Do change your oil every year. Do change your filter! Do store your sled properly, you spent alot for it. Do regular maintainence and it will last.
Heck be anal about it! It won't hurt a thing!

QUADSCRIB
Expert
AGREED! AGREED! AGREED! Oil (and any other vital fluid) changes done regularly do nothing but tilt most odds in your favor.
For the cost of fluids vs. the cost of long term consequenses its a no brainer. Yes Im also thinking quads come spring but would never put away my machine w/ dirty oil. The acids and hydrocarbons in used oil are the only reasons you change engine oil so often as opposed to other fluids and lubricants. Think 3000 mile engine oil changes vs. 30,000 trans fluid changes on most autos.
Have been in the automotive service industryfor most my life, Ive learned that you can never really change your fluids too often,,, though its splitting hairs and expensive to get too carried away.
Up untill recently Ive been racing YFZ450 MX quads for 5 years and could NEVER imagine not changing my oil after every race weekend, the oil condition proves that to me every time I drain it.... and yes I do realize that Ive got a trans and clutch in the mix. Spec is spec and spec is when the fluid is brand new. I put in a piston and wrist pin every 10 hours and NEVER had a failure....cant say that but alot of the guys I race with.
I plan to change the oil in my phazer (just got it in spring) every 500 miles or so this winter. I changed it and filter after I bought it (483 miles) then had to drain it all back out due to deciding to PC the subframe (getting tomorrow BTW) and it was NASTY! Im very happy that I drained that out in basicly flushed the oil system which Ive done on almost every vehicle Ive ever owned and NO failures.
For the cost of fluids vs. the cost of long term consequenses its a no brainer. Yes Im also thinking quads come spring but would never put away my machine w/ dirty oil. The acids and hydrocarbons in used oil are the only reasons you change engine oil so often as opposed to other fluids and lubricants. Think 3000 mile engine oil changes vs. 30,000 trans fluid changes on most autos.
Have been in the automotive service industryfor most my life, Ive learned that you can never really change your fluids too often,,, though its splitting hairs and expensive to get too carried away.
Up untill recently Ive been racing YFZ450 MX quads for 5 years and could NEVER imagine not changing my oil after every race weekend, the oil condition proves that to me every time I drain it.... and yes I do realize that Ive got a trans and clutch in the mix. Spec is spec and spec is when the fluid is brand new. I put in a piston and wrist pin every 10 hours and NEVER had a failure....cant say that but alot of the guys I race with.
I plan to change the oil in my phazer (just got it in spring) every 500 miles or so this winter. I changed it and filter after I bought it (483 miles) then had to drain it all back out due to deciding to PC the subframe (getting tomorrow BTW) and it was NASTY! Im very happy that I drained that out in basicly flushed the oil system which Ive done on almost every vehicle Ive ever owned and NO failures.
fergdog93
Expert
I can vouch for Scribs, his quad has been bullet proof,(when he keeps it on 4 wheels) which is more than I can say for my Honda's. lol, I even chaged my oil after every race too....Scribs, must be I was making more power than you huh? lol j/k. But on the other hand, I have always changed my Nytro's oil at the 2,000mile mark, or the end of the season, and so far so good. 

QUADSCRIB
Expert
Well the power thing could be but I can tell you that 18 holeshots outta 24 motos last year make me wonder (lol)....
could be just a Yamaha/Honda thing too...
Just bought a KTM450sx.

could be just a Yamaha/Honda thing too...
Just bought a KTM450sx.
Nick1945
TY 4 Stroke Master
Sasquatch said:Best to change at end of season. Then run the motor (now refilled with fresh oil and additives) up to temp flushing out any of the old oil from your bearings etc. Reason is the old oil contains acid substances that can and will eat at your bearings and stuff.
This is the recommended way to do it. END OF SEASON!
This would be a good time to then get the gas now treated with sea foam (my fav) into the carbs and engine. Last is a quick fog of the motor and shut it off.
I change the filter everytime as well, I don't care what Yami says about every second oil change. Sure it takes a little more time to do an oil change but new oil = new filter.
Dump the old and fill with new for the summer storage. When winter comes your good to go!
I go along with the fresh filter each time also.
I agree!

Sasquatch said:Best to change at end of season. Then run the motor (now refilled with fresh oil and additives) up to temp flushing out any of the old oil from your bearings etc. Reason is the old oil contains acid substances that can and will eat at your bearings and stuff.
This is the recommended way to do it. END OF SEASON!
This would be a good time to then get the gas now treated with sea foam (my fav) into the carbs and engine. Last is a quick fog of the motor and shut it off.
I change the filter everytime as well, I don't care what Yami says about every second oil change. Sure it takes a little more time to do an oil change but new oil = new filter.
Dump the old and fill with new for the summer storage. When winter comes your good to go!


Super Sled
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nduncan said:Sasquatch said:Best to change at end of season. Then run the motor (now refilled with fresh oil and additives) up to temp flushing out any of the old oil from your bearings etc. Reason is the old oil contains acid substances that can and will eat at your bearings and stuff.
This is the recommended way to do it. END OF SEASON!
This would be a good time to then get the gas now treated with sea foam (my fav) into the carbs and engine. Last is a quick fog of the motor and shut it off.
I change the filter everytime as well, I don't care what Yami says about every second oil change. Sure it takes a little more time to do an oil change but new oil = new filter.
Dump the old and fill with new for the summer storage. When winter comes your good to go!
I go along with the fresh filter each time also.
Yes, best practice is always to also change oil filter with oil change. But it is a freakin' PITA to change the filter without the Ulmer relocate kit. That is why I change my oil often, but only my filter evry other oil change.
I know the consequences and I accept them. I bet I still get 30k miles or so out of my engine!
Mike
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