Oil change?

[Irv]

Just curious when most on here do their oil changes?

After the season is over or before the new season begins?

My info says to change after the season due to the accumulation of acids and such that can form in the oil but I am also curious if starting and stopping the engine during the off-season does also not contribute to some acids and such?

For those that change it out after the season is over, is that the same oil you will be running all next season as well or do you do another oil change before the season begins again?

 

[Gone Blue]

Just curious when most on here do their oil changes?

After the season is over or before the new season begins?

My info says to change after the season due to the accumulation of acids and such that can form in the oil but I am also curious if starting and stopping the engine during the off-season does also not contribute to some acids and such?

For those that change it out after the season is over, is that the same oil you will be running all next season as well or do you do another oil change before the season begins again?

This has been discussed on a number of threads. But you are correct, you want to change the oil at seasons end in the spring. The acids you mention above can etch the engine bearings. G.B.

 

[Irv]

Just curious when most on here do their oil changes?

After the season is over or before the new season begins?

My info says to change after the season due to the accumulation of acids and such that can form in the oil but I am also curious if starting and stopping the engine during the off-season does also not contribute to some acids and such?

For those that change it out after the season is over, is that the same oil you will be running all next season as well or do you do another oil change before the season begins again?

This has been discussed on a number of threads. But you are correct, you want to change the oil at seasons end in the spring. The acids you mention above can etch the engine bearings. G.B.

Sorry, never seen this question before, just other oil related posts.

Thanks for the info, figured as much but wanted to ask anyways

Curious on the other part of my question though, those that change their oil in the spring, is that the same oil you will run next season, for the whole season?

 

[yamahas]

I do it at the end of the season and keep the oil in there for the next season. I fog the engine and dont run it untill about mid october when i make sure every thing is working great.

You will get lots of different opinions, but my opinion is that the oil will not get as hot and break down over the summer as it did over the riding season.

Pros is the spring:
Clean oil in there for the summer and ready to go for next season.

Pros in the fall: 100% fresh oil for the season.

 

[mr.pitstop]

Change it in the Fall..

 

[Gone Blue]

Just curious when most on here do their oil changes?

After the season is over or before the new season begins?

My info says to change after the season due to the accumulation of acids and such that can form in the oil but I am also curious if starting and stopping the engine during the off-season does also not contribute to some acids and such?

For those that change it out after the season is over, is that the same oil you will be running all next season as well or do you do another oil change before the season begins again?

This has been discussed on a number of threads. But you are correct, you want to change the oil at seasons end in the spring. The acids you mention above can etch the engine bearings. G.B.

Sorry, never seen this question before, just other oil related posts.

Thanks for the info, figured as much but wanted to ask anyways

Curious on the other part of my question though, those that change their oil in the spring, is that the same oil you will run next season, for the whole season?

No worries! You will get lots of opinions of this topic for sure. I change the oil and filter in the spring. I add Stabil to the gas tank and run the motor to warm the engine before I change the oil. After the oil and filter are changed, I run the engine for a couple minutes to circulate the fresh oil. I then drain the fuel out of the carb float bowls and call it good till the fall. In the fall I start the engine and I am ready for the season running the oil I put in last Spring. If I was to start the sled periodically over the Summer I would probably change the oil before the season. G.B.

 

[jamesc]

when you're ready to put it away run it to get it nice and hot. drop the oil and filter, replace it and fill with fresh oil, refire the engine and fog it then you're done. i brought a case of spray fog but personally i think their recommendations are too much. you really don't need a ton of it to coat the surfaces plus it's easier on plugs if you don't drown them with oil. you do not want to occasionally run the engine. a lot of engine wear occurs at starting and warmup plus unless you run it long enough and get it hot enough to drive the condensation out of the engine it builds up which you don't want. if you're really concerned you can just bump it over a little every now and then. on the race engines after oil change and fogging i back the rocker gear off which seals the cylinders and relaxes the valve springs. prior to firing the engine first time the next season the distributor is pulled and engined primed with a drill. as mentioned it's best to not store it with used oil. you can use the fresh change you did next season. always fill the oil filter with clean oil prior to installation. you should also take a close look at the filter when you take it out of the box it's not uncommon to see manufacturing scrap around the top which should be cleaned off before installation. i would not store a carbureted engine with fuel in the carbs drain them completely dry.

 

[Irv]

when you're ready to put it away run it to get it nice and hot. drop the oil and filter, replace it and fill with fresh oil, refire the engine and fog it then you're done. i brought a case of spray fog but personally i think their recommendations are too much. you really don't need a ton of it to coat the surfaces plus it's easier on plugs if you don't drown them with oil. you do not want to occasionally run the engine. a lot of engine wear occurs at starting and warmup plus unless you run it long enough and get it hot enough to drive the condensation out of the engine it builds up which you don't want. if you're really concerned you can just bump it over a little every now and then. on the race engines after oil change and fogging i back the rocker gear off which seals the cylinders and relaxes the valve springs. prior to firing the engine first time the next season the distributor is pulled and engined primed with a drill. as mentioned it's best to not store it with used oil. you can use the fresh change you did next season. always fill the oil filter with clean oil prior to installation. you should also take a close look at the filter when you take it out of the box it's not uncommon to see manufacturing scrap around the top which should be cleaned off before installation. i would not store a carbureted engine with fuel in the carbs drain them completely dry.

Thanks James, I agree for the most part on your storage ideas but getting to these carbs and float bowls while the sled is on the enclosed trailer is not an easy task.
I also thought fogging was best and it probably still is but I have read countless times of people just starting their sleds every 4-6 weeks during the off season to circulate the oil/gas and such and never having any issues.
I did that myself this past spring/summer/fall and made sure I ran it for at least 10 minutes each time, periodically spinning the track etc and making sure my heat exchangers got fairly warm/hot before I shut it down.
I also treated the gas with ample amounts of Sea-Foam in order to preserve the gas and help with varnishing etc.

Curious on the float bowl draining, I have read/heard that doing this can cause gaskets and internals to dry out and create future problems?

Also with these carbed sleds, I have read they can be a bit of a bugger to get started back up in the fall after sitting all summer. I know you can blow into a vent line to pressurize the system before restart but doing this, is it possible to not flood the enging if too much pressure is applied?

In my XLT, (2 stroke)I have always done exactly what you say to do, everything but drain the float bowls(but I run the machine dry after shutting off the gas and fogging as it begins to die) and have also always had good luck but I am curious if you think all that is still necessary in a 4 stroke sled?

I am also curious what you think of synthetic oils sticking to parts better than regular dino oils?
I believe I have read where it does and that helps eliminate dry starts but is there any truth to that, that syn's stick to metal parts better?

Thanks again for the info, at this poiint I am not sure if I am going to store my sled in the trailer this off season or leave it in the garage where I can work on it over the summer?(I want to change out my front end bushings, steering bushings, shock revalve etc)

Appreciate the info