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Wiring A Heated Shield


ROCKERDAN said:
schroon said:
Is it very easy to tell which wire is positve and which is negative on the back of the plug? I think these kits give you long leads to go to the battery like Rocker dan did. Electric is not one of my strong points.
Click to expand...

yes the backside of 12v cigar plug has two wires,easy to see and splice into....i know many who simply unplug the plug there,and push wires into plug and plug back together.....works fine.

i still like the battery better with fuse,cause i now run a GPS off stock cigar plug and before if i tried that my shield would fog up.

Dan
Click to expand...
thats it, done it many times. do it right on side of trail. 1/2 beer
 
I have went through 2 cords in the last two rides. Its not the long cord coming direct from the battery. Its a short jumper with male/male ends to work with my helmet cord.

Im not sure whats causing them to go out, I checked 2 new ones with the 2 that went bad. From .3 ohms on the new ones to 300 ohms on the bad ones. Im thinking the wires are breaking inside. The one yesterday lasted the entire ride to eat. Then when I was on the way home it went out. thinking the plugging/unplugging is tearing them up.
 
Stupid question of the day.

I just wired mine to the battery because the yamaha plug thing must have blown the cigarette plug fuse (wherever the hell that is). So I just wired it with the supplied cords from HJC and they didn't include a fuse. Why put in a fuse if they didn't supply one? What amperage is best if you guys really think it's best to have a fuse. Is it dangerous to not have one?
 
Big Ron said:
Stupid question of the day.

I just wired mine to the battery because the yamaha plug thing must have blown the cigarette plug fuse (wherever the hell that is). So I just wired it with the supplied cords from HJC and they didn't include a fuse. Why put in a fuse if they didn't supply one? What amperage is best if you guys really think it's best to have a fuse. Is it dangerous to not have one?
Click to expand...


direct to battery....7amp fuse would be good....reason is cause when you get water or snow into your PLUG it will blow a fuse before shorting out something....or if your shield goes bad it will blow fuse first.....

always FUSE anything coming direct off battery,just a good rule of thumb.

I simply used the inline FUSE that comes with the battery tender Jr,cut off the plugin and splice into your wiring. DONE.

Dan
 
ROCKERDAN said:
direct to battery....7amp fuse would be good....reason is cause when you get water or snow into your PLUG it will blow a fuse before shorting out something....or if your shield goes bad it will blow fuse first.....

always FUSE anything coming direct off battery,just a good rule of thumb.

I simply used the inline FUSE that comes with the battery tender Jr,cut off the plugin and splice into your wiring. DONE.

Dan
Click to expand...


Actually a self resetting 10 to 15 amp circuit breaker fuse is best in my opinion. You can buy them at almost any auto parts store. They cost $4 to $6.
 
tttario said:
I've heard of people blowing the fuse for the cig lighter with heated shield plug-in from Yamy???

Go to the battery, it is easy to do. Just go buy a fused lead (basically a fuseholder with 2 red wires coming off each end) and a 10A fuse for it. Use the long female RCA cable that comes with the shield and run it down through your bars then over to the brake side and along the sub-frame to one end of the fused lead. Connect the red of the RCA cord to the fused lead and the black to a bolt on the sub frame (make sure to clean any paint off the bolt or metal of the subframe). Tie in you red fused lead to the positive on your battery and install your 10A fuse.

Now you have a free cig lighter for whatever and your heated shield completely seperate from any other circuit or system on your sled. There are quicker ways to get a heated shield to work, but none as good. ;)!
Click to expand...


I liked this approach and have made the wire accordingly but I just want to make sure I've done it correctly. I took 16ga red and black braided and soldered them to the lugs on a female rca plug - red to the center and black to the outside. Then I went ahead and spliced a 10a fuse inline into the red with bullet connectors. I then put little rings on the end of the red and black - for the red to solder to the red side of the battery and for the black to be grounded against the frame.

Each step of the way I used my multimeter to test continuity of the helmet cord (the flexible one that's male at both ends), the solder job I did on the female rca plug, the splice job on the fuse etc ... everything was fine. Continuity through the whole thing.

Then I figure, why don't I put my 12v battery charger thing on my red and black and then see if I get 12v at the female rca end ... if I do, I know I've got 12v flowing through and everything will work great. Well, I tested my battery charger with my meter to confirm I had 12v there and then put my red and black leads on the charger and tried to pick up 12v at the other end (female rca) and couldn't get it to read. Tried the black lead on the meter, the red lead on the meter and both - no dice.

So, should I be able to get 12v through? I know I had continuity through it? Or does it work differently. What am I doing wrong?
 
I always thought or had learned somewhere you have to have a charger connected to a battery to get it to give out the volts.
 
have an o8 apex, bought the yamaha plug in from a 2010 apex (handle bar mount) anyone know if the 08 has a place to plug into without splicing.
 
i bought the visor plug in which is on the 2010 apex handle bar.i want to install on an 08 apex. anyone know if it can be done without splicing?
 
bsteven43 said:
tttario said:
I've heard of people blowing the fuse for the cig lighter with heated shield plug-in from Yamy???

Go to the battery, it is easy to do. Just go buy a fused lead (basically a fuseholder with 2 red wires coming off each end) and a 10A fuse for it. Use the long female RCA cable that comes with the shield and run it down through your bars then over to the brake side and along the sub-frame to one end of the fused lead. Connect the red of the RCA cord to the fused lead and the black to a bolt on the sub frame (make sure to clean any paint off the bolt or metal of the subframe). Tie in you red fused lead to the positive on your battery and install your 10A fuse.

Now you have a free cig lighter for whatever and your heated shield completely seperate from any other circuit or system on your sled. There are quicker ways to get a heated shield to work, but none as good. ;)!
Click to expand...


I liked this approach and have made the wire accordingly but I just want to make sure I've done it correctly. I took 16ga red and black braided and soldered them to the lugs on a female rca plug - red to the center and black to the outside. Then I went ahead and spliced a 10a fuse inline into the red with bullet connectors. I then put little rings on the end of the red and black - for the red to solder to the red side of the battery and for the black to be grounded against the frame.

Each step of the way I used my multimeter to test continuity of the helmet cord (the flexible one that's male at both ends), the solder job I did on the female rca plug, the splice job on the fuse etc ... everything was fine. Continuity through the whole thing.

Then I figure, why don't I put my 12v battery charger thing on my red and black and then see if I get 12v at the female rca end ... if I do, I know I've got 12v flowing through and everything will work great. Well, I tested my battery charger with my meter to confirm I had 12v there and then put my red and black leads on the charger and tried to pick up 12v at the other end (female rca) and couldn't get it to read. Tried the black lead on the meter, the red lead on the meter and both - no dice.

So, should I be able to get 12v through? I know I had continuity through it? Or does it work differently. What am I doing wrong?
Click to expand...


If it is hooked up to battery and grounded, just use your meter on the end at the handlebars or wherever it comes out at.
 
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