xtx breaking limiter straps

[nytroboy]

could anybody tell me why i keep breaking limiter straps . one at a time and then other side after a 200 miles on my xtx nytro

 

[**sj**]

if your center spring shock is too soft this shock collapses easily and gives an excessive amount of play in the straps...they can get chewed up by the track cogs...and when you hit big bumps and the suspension rebounds the exceesive play and chewed up strap can break...
this is my hypothesis

 

[mach9]

SJ is partly right.
But there is a design flaw in the XTX strap set up.
And will be a big problem if you choose to go down one hole.
Yamaha knows about it and will never repeat this blunder ever again in a new skid design. Will they have a fix for the 2009 and 2010 models? Your guess is a good as mine.
Here is the link to the fix the Nytro FAQ.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=67248&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=114

 

[Summitseeker]

I have broken a few limiter straps and I changed to a steel belted neoprene coated timing belt and zero issues.

 

[**sj**]

I have broken a few limiter straps and I changed to a steel belted neoprene coated timing belt and zero issues.

GOOD IDEA any specific details are helpful

 

[Summitseeker]

I have broken a few limiter straps and I changed to a steel belted neoprene coated timing belt and zero issues.

GOOD IDEA any specific details are helpful

I used an AT5 Polyurethane coated steel braided open end belt from Brecoflex. http://www.brecoflex.com/index.php?CATI ... =1&TBGID=2

 

[**sj**]

cool what specific dimensions..

 

[upei93]

cool what specific dimensions..

X2 ???

 

[deanhell]

Unbolt the strap from the bottom shaft and wrap it around so the "tail" of the strap is to the front of the sled. This makes the strap fold to the rear (instead of forward) when your suspension collapses. Put some weight on the seat and make sure the strap folds to the rear. You might have to switch the top also.

 

[**sj**]

Unbolt the strap from the bottom shaft and wrap it around so the "tail" of the strap is to the front of the sled. This makes the strap fold to the rear (instead of forward) when your suspension collapses. Put some weight on the seat and make sure the strap folds to the rear. You might have to switch the top also.

what do you think this will do?

 

[bitchnblue09]

I have 2300 on mine, and same ones from 0 miles, so far so good, but I didnt pull it down any...

 

[deanhell]

It makes the strap fold to the rear instead of the front where it can get caught by the track. Take a look there is more room to the back. This fix came from the service manager at Johnson Sales in WI.

 

[Wis Sledder]

It makes the strap fold to the rear instead of the front where it can get caught by the track. Take a look there is more room to the back. This fix came from the service manager at Johnson Sales in WI.

That may sound like a good idea but when your track lugs rub the straps (which they do) it will cause the deflection to go towards the front because of the direction of the spinning track. Now the straps are right back in an area where they can get caught in the track when your front suspension is collapsed. This means no riding on Saturday afternoons... I still think the best fix is to get the bottom shaft away from the track or put some small loops on the top side of the bottom shaft so the straps never come in contact with the track lugs. In doing this you will have to shorten the length of the straps to compensate for not going around the shaft.

 

[deanhell]

Wis Sledder I absolutely agree with what your saying but in my case the strap was getting caught on the lower end only. Didn't seem to rub on the top (maybe because of the steel loop it goes through). I installed the new strap as mentioned and haven't had a problem in 900 miles. Quick and cheap... my favorite!

 

[Wis Sledder]

I haven't had any problems since the dealer replaced mine either but I guarantee the next time I ride 12" to 15" washed out trails where the front skid is collapsing repeatedly I will. I think that the only you are going to totally eliminate any possible chance of this happening again you need to get the straps away from the track. This means getting the bottom loops around the shaft away from the track. This could be done by welding a loop on the top side of the shaft that it currently wraps around. (Relocation of the shaft isn't much of an option with the design of these rails.) I haven't done this yet only because it hasn't happened again but that's because most of the time that I ride the trails are relatively smooth. If you look at most other manufacturers skids the loops have more space between the track which keeps them from being spun and not getting caught in the lugs when the front suspension is compressed. I don’t claim to be an engineer but this isn’t rocket science.