vsmpowered
Expert
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2009
- Messages
- 356
- Location
- Rochester , NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Nytro xtx Viper ltx se
I had two straps brake. The rear shock got busted and the front almost. had the same thing happened on friend sled with with less then 200 miles on it.
Daranello
Suspended
My straps looked new upto 3000miles. Then ran my track loose both straps gone instantly.
Put new straps in and did not adjust the track and bang 150miles! Snap!!
To me I'm guessing the tracks to loose and them coming back a slapping the straps
Put new straps in and did not adjust the track and bang 150miles! Snap!!
To me I'm guessing the tracks to loose and them coming back a slapping the straps
Jimdevjr
Veteran
Hmmm, I thought to run the track alittle tighter too, until I saw in another thread that to tight is murder on hyfax.
The problem I've seen with track tension over the years is not many apply any science to it. Most say "about an inch droop", or the two finger trick, or let it ratchet and add 1/2 turn. Etc etc.
With my Skidoo, i used a dial caliper and measured the adjusters between the head of the bolt and the nut. That allowed me to align, and record numbers while monitoring hyfax. Simple, effective, never had any problems in 15,000 miles (3 sleds). I noticed with Yamaha's adjusters, you can't get a devise in there to measure.
The problem I've seen with track tension over the years is not many apply any science to it. Most say "about an inch droop", or the two finger trick, or let it ratchet and add 1/2 turn. Etc etc.
With my Skidoo, i used a dial caliper and measured the adjusters between the head of the bolt and the nut. That allowed me to align, and record numbers while monitoring hyfax. Simple, effective, never had any problems in 15,000 miles (3 sleds). I noticed with Yamaha's adjusters, you can't get a devise in there to measure.
Filks
Veteran
Sorry for the double post.
Filks
Veteran
I had one strap break on the bottom within 700kms when I first purchased my sled and my dealership warrantied the straps for me. The only difference with the new straps was that they had a little half round cut out on either side which looks like it helps provide some extra clearance from the lugs on the inside of the track. I read this thread last winter after I had the problem and went with the larger stainless fender washers that I picked up at Home Depot and they've been fine ever since (it just didn't make sense to me that adding extra straps would help with track clearance issues - even if it may work for others). Like another poster mentioned, just get washers that are large enough where when you tighten them that the part closest to the rail bends a bit, but make sure the edge of the washer doesn't cut into the strap! It keeps my straps from rotating and extending out into the track when you compress the suspension. It's cheap, easy and it works.
Groomer08
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
how is it wasting your money on wheels if they save the hyfax and your limiter straps?
I didnt do excels everywhere.
i did kimpex pros from mfgsupply for the 4 outside wheels at $15 a piece, and 2 excell wheels for the inside wheels. $150 total investment.
kimpex wheels are too fat to fit between track nubs.
the 4 outside wheels take 2 minutes to change out.
the 2 inside ones take a bit longer as u have to undo the center shock and weasel the shaft out of there.
oh and im still on my stock hyfax at 1800miles. have a 1/8"-3/16" to the wear line still.
I didnt do excels everywhere.
i did kimpex pros from mfgsupply for the 4 outside wheels at $15 a piece, and 2 excell wheels for the inside wheels. $150 total investment.
kimpex wheels are too fat to fit between track nubs.
the 4 outside wheels take 2 minutes to change out.
the 2 inside ones take a bit longer as u have to undo the center shock and weasel the shaft out of there.
oh and im still on my stock hyfax at 1800miles. have a 1/8"-3/16" to the wear line still.
yam429
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2009
- Messages
- 267
- Age
- 51
- Location
- Saint Michael, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2009 Nytro XTX, 2010 Vector LTX, 1981 SRX 440, 1989 Inviter, 1991 Snosport, 2004 Snowhawk
- LOCATION
- Saint Michael
Daranello, your exactly right the same thing happend to me. I just studded my track and on the second trip to Michigan my track tension was loose and before I new it both limiter straps broke and my rear shock was destroyed, completely tore in half.
yamahauler2010
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2011
- Messages
- 15
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 Viper RTX-SE
Limiter strap countermeasure
Like others have stated the problem is this: When your rear suspension compresses the limiter straps go slack. Due to the fact that they are not very tight around the lower shaft they have the tendency to rotate on the shaft. If they rotate forward they may get caught up in the drive lugs of the track. When this happens it pulls the limiter strap as well as the bolt, nut, and washer assembly between the lower shaft and the track, puts wear on the strap and can cause damage to the drive lugs of the track. You'll hear a strange grinding type sound momentarily. Then, when your suspension decompresses the limiter straps get pulled back towards their normal position around the shaft in the opposite direction. This can happen over and over as your suspension compresses and decompresses. Your limiter straps will wear considerably and eventually tear making you wonder how and why. I had this happen to both my straps and could tell by the wear that this is exactly what happened. When the limiter straps rotate around the lower shaft they will also sometimes move slightly side to side and contact the drive lugs. The only thing holding them from sliding side to side are those skimpy pieces of rubber around the shaft. They really do not prevent the straps from moving. I was able to prove this on my sled. My solution was to remove the lower shaft, make precise measurements so that the limiter straps will be centre perfectly between the drive lugs on the lower shaft. I drilled and tapped two M5 holes into the lower shaft in this centred location. I pierced a hole in each limiter strap in a location that would make a bolt in the horizontal position when installed on the sled. I believe I measured 92mm from the end of the limiter straps. I installed the limiter straps with the bolts in place through the holes and tightened the bolts with a flat washer, lock washer and blue loctite, put the shaft in place with the mounting bolts loose in the rail. I raised the rear of the sled so the limiter straps would become tight. I rotated the lower shaft slightly rearward by a couple of degrees so that the limiter straps will naturally bend rearward and tightened the shaft mounting bolts. Now my limiter straps cannot rotate at all on the lower shaft or move side to side due to this locating bolt so I have no clearance issues and no possibility of the limiter straps rotating around the shaft and getting caught in the drive lugs. Problem solved. A bit of time involved to do this but I believe this to be one of the better solutions. Just my 2 cents.
Like others have stated the problem is this: When your rear suspension compresses the limiter straps go slack. Due to the fact that they are not very tight around the lower shaft they have the tendency to rotate on the shaft. If they rotate forward they may get caught up in the drive lugs of the track. When this happens it pulls the limiter strap as well as the bolt, nut, and washer assembly between the lower shaft and the track, puts wear on the strap and can cause damage to the drive lugs of the track. You'll hear a strange grinding type sound momentarily. Then, when your suspension decompresses the limiter straps get pulled back towards their normal position around the shaft in the opposite direction. This can happen over and over as your suspension compresses and decompresses. Your limiter straps will wear considerably and eventually tear making you wonder how and why. I had this happen to both my straps and could tell by the wear that this is exactly what happened. When the limiter straps rotate around the lower shaft they will also sometimes move slightly side to side and contact the drive lugs. The only thing holding them from sliding side to side are those skimpy pieces of rubber around the shaft. They really do not prevent the straps from moving. I was able to prove this on my sled. My solution was to remove the lower shaft, make precise measurements so that the limiter straps will be centre perfectly between the drive lugs on the lower shaft. I drilled and tapped two M5 holes into the lower shaft in this centred location. I pierced a hole in each limiter strap in a location that would make a bolt in the horizontal position when installed on the sled. I believe I measured 92mm from the end of the limiter straps. I installed the limiter straps with the bolts in place through the holes and tightened the bolts with a flat washer, lock washer and blue loctite, put the shaft in place with the mounting bolts loose in the rail. I raised the rear of the sled so the limiter straps would become tight. I rotated the lower shaft slightly rearward by a couple of degrees so that the limiter straps will naturally bend rearward and tightened the shaft mounting bolts. Now my limiter straps cannot rotate at all on the lower shaft or move side to side due to this locating bolt so I have no clearance issues and no possibility of the limiter straps rotating around the shaft and getting caught in the drive lugs. Problem solved. A bit of time involved to do this but I believe this to be one of the better solutions. Just my 2 cents.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
I replace my straps every year..
UPDATE: 6750 miles on my original double strap fix and they still look like they are new, quick easy fix that is holding up. Thats exactly what doubling up does, prevents the straps from rotating up into the lugs of the track and shredding them Decide your fix and ride!
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
After my episode last year of blowing out my rear shock and linkages 1/2 way on our sled trip, I did the kkraus double strap fix and also added this safety tether.
I hope it never has to get used, but at least it is there in case I need to limp the sled around. The zip ties are there to help guide the cable in the same motion as the straps...they take no load clearly!
I have 100km on this setup so far and all seems well. I am watching it like a hawk!
I hope it never has to get used, but at least it is there in case I need to limp the sled around. The zip ties are there to help guide the cable in the same motion as the straps...they take no load clearly!
I have 100km on this setup so far and all seems well. I am watching it like a hawk!
Yamatario
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2009
- Messages
- 344
- Location
- SW Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2018 LTX SideWinder
2015 Viper LTX DX
2009 Nytro XTX
Just install a Star Suspension Kit. Over 15000 km on sled, over 5000 with Star kit and still original straps.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I did that this fall. I like the kit a lot so far. Oh well, my fix makes me sleep better knowing its there 
tweeker21
Newbie
2000 miles on my 09 xtx and my limiter strap is wore out on the bottom from the washer catching it and wore in the middle and notice the lugs are getting cut up on the track as well.