Hi Guys,
We have been asked about the new helix on a 2019 srx sidewinder.
We do have one here.
It is, as you can see the casting numbers show it as a 37. (8KC70 is cast into the back side)=37 when it is a raw cast
That 8KC70 would stand for 37 as a raw cast the way it would normally come.It is the casting they used.
...however, it has been machined into a 35/39 like they claim. Remember this is a short ramp and only a couple degrees at each end from the nominal 37 casting they cut it on.
a 37 is the closest casting of course (two degrees less at first is 35,...two degrees more at the end is 39)
so it is slightly less start angle and slightly steeper at the end.
You can see it in the cut on the casting with the naked eye. There is a rounded edge radius all along the edge of the ramp angle on a straight 37 casting.
..on the re-cut ones they made into 35/39 you can see that the radius is cut down as the start is 35.....the middle it is same and still has round cast edge along the ramp ...then as it dips to 39 at the end it is cutting the radius slightly again.
at the first asnd at the end of the cut you can see it progresses to a sharp square edge cut as the cutter cuts deeper.
picture attached.
It is based from a standard yamaha 37 casting and they have re-cut it to 35/39
We have been asked about the new helix on a 2019 srx sidewinder.
We do have one here.
It is, as you can see the casting numbers show it as a 37. (8KC70 is cast into the back side)=37 when it is a raw cast
That 8KC70 would stand for 37 as a raw cast the way it would normally come.It is the casting they used.
...however, it has been machined into a 35/39 like they claim. Remember this is a short ramp and only a couple degrees at each end from the nominal 37 casting they cut it on.
a 37 is the closest casting of course (two degrees less at first is 35,...two degrees more at the end is 39)
so it is slightly less start angle and slightly steeper at the end.
You can see it in the cut on the casting with the naked eye. There is a rounded edge radius all along the edge of the ramp angle on a straight 37 casting.
..on the re-cut ones they made into 35/39 you can see that the radius is cut down as the start is 35.....the middle it is same and still has round cast edge along the ramp ...then as it dips to 39 at the end it is cutting the radius slightly again.
at the first asnd at the end of the cut you can see it progresses to a sharp square edge cut as the cutter cuts deeper.
picture attached.
It is based from a standard yamaha 37 casting and they have re-cut it to 35/39
Attachments
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have a almost brand new Dalton 35/39 for sale. 80 bucks plus shipping. I just bought this by accident from a member. Very nice piece
sledding rocks
Expert
so being that said dale , I'm assuming your 35/39 is the same cut as Yamaha ?
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Thank you for clearing this up. Crazy to think how that little bit can effect performance like it does.
On another note some seem to question its usefulness for their own application and I'm sure you will get lots of answers for that ( that are all peoples own opinions...clutching)
35/39 may work well for some combinations and is a popular helix that apparently does work well for many.
However, it may be worth noting the following if some are just assuming:
- they are doing something to ease complaints that some had of belt blowing and they are referring to a STOCK application.
...that means stock vehicle with lag and less HP than many here who are asking the question
- they are using what they have there to do it. That means a flyweight with as too flat ramp curve ( my own opinion on that one...to each their own)
- they have a spring with less pressure (pink apex spring)...it is less start pressure so they also lighten the rivet and thus total mass of the big flyweight to help
....this will rev a bit too much after break in unless they use a steeper finish on the helix to work with all that.
So I guess the question of if this helix/spring is relative to you has a lot of other speculation to consider.
Any time you change HOP, Gearing, peak rpm required, etc...it changes the required "rate of shift of the belt", and thus sometimes changes the required clutch components for best efficiency for what you do with the machine. As we all know from seeing the tuning the last couple years on here...clutching for this model application is all over the place...both because of stock to boosted HP and the different tracks, gearing, and applications.
- are you using those flat stock weights?
- do you have stock total HP and HP delivery ?...or extra boost?
- have you added a muffler or changed gear?
- Would this helix and spring they use now on a stock one backshift a much more aggressive primary clutch setting for a 270 hp sled?
Is what they have sent for stock calibration correct?...maybe...is the rate of shift they have chosen really relative to you and your own situation?...maybe
I'm just giving you some details about the new helix because we just got it in to answer some of that.
How you use it is ,of course up to you.
Also, we no longer need it. So if anyone wants it, it comes free to the first person to order a YSR helix over the phone from us can have this one along with it !
Call or email info@daltonindustries.com with a phone number and mention the giveaway helix and it will be yours with your order.
35/39 may work well for some combinations and is a popular helix that apparently does work well for many.
However, it may be worth noting the following if some are just assuming:
- they are doing something to ease complaints that some had of belt blowing and they are referring to a STOCK application.
...that means stock vehicle with lag and less HP than many here who are asking the question
- they are using what they have there to do it. That means a flyweight with as too flat ramp curve ( my own opinion on that one...to each their own)
- they have a spring with less pressure (pink apex spring)...it is less start pressure so they also lighten the rivet and thus total mass of the big flyweight to help
....this will rev a bit too much after break in unless they use a steeper finish on the helix to work with all that.
So I guess the question of if this helix/spring is relative to you has a lot of other speculation to consider.
Any time you change HOP, Gearing, peak rpm required, etc...it changes the required "rate of shift of the belt", and thus sometimes changes the required clutch components for best efficiency for what you do with the machine. As we all know from seeing the tuning the last couple years on here...clutching for this model application is all over the place...both because of stock to boosted HP and the different tracks, gearing, and applications.
- are you using those flat stock weights?
- do you have stock total HP and HP delivery ?...or extra boost?
- have you added a muffler or changed gear?
- Would this helix and spring they use now on a stock one backshift a much more aggressive primary clutch setting for a 270 hp sled?
Is what they have sent for stock calibration correct?...maybe...is the rate of shift they have chosen really relative to you and your own situation?...maybe
I'm just giving you some details about the new helix because we just got it in to answer some of that.
How you use it is ,of course up to you.
Also, we no longer need it. So if anyone wants it, it comes free to the first person to order a YSR helix over the phone from us can have this one along with it !
Call or email info@daltonindustries.com with a phone number and mention the giveaway helix and it will be yours with your order.
yes sir, it is. Ran a program on it to prove.
yes, what seems like a little can be a fair bit sometimes.
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
Wow thanks a lot Dale!! Definitely some food for thought! You hit on a lot of good points.
I thought most proved last year that the reverse helix worked great for stock setup but not well for tuned sleds. I guess this makes sense as to why YAM did this for the ‘19s
I thought most proved last year that the reverse helix worked great for stock setup but not well for tuned sleds. I guess this makes sense as to why YAM did this for the ‘19s
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theewarrior
Expert
I ran a dalton 35/37 last year and found it work good
dsimonRX1
Pro
I'm going to try the Dalton 35/39 with the B/O secondary spring to start this year running on Powertrail or Max17.
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I ran the Dalton reverse angle 35/39 at the end of last season, it was my last weekend ride of the year and also just had an updated flash (Max Spool 16) put in along with that helix. Had Woodys Powersports do both. He recommends that helix on his Powertrail SMM tunes with the same primary clutch kit (addition of 1.25 gram washer to tip weight) that he uses for the Ecotrail tune smm. Claims that helix helped keep the revs down for the extra 20 hp.
Really not sure if it would work better then the stock 35 helix, but I do know that it was many steps up from the ecotrail tune power wise and my rpms were pretty much spot on. But I was only building 15.9 psi boost. So this year new TS BOV for the extra almost 1 psi that was left on the table, and new set of Dalton QAY- 70.
Will be trying both helix’s once I get full boost and rpms spot on again!!
Really not sure if it would work better then the stock 35 helix, but I do know that it was many steps up from the ecotrail tune power wise and my rpms were pretty much spot on. But I was only building 15.9 psi boost. So this year new TS BOV for the extra almost 1 psi that was left on the table, and new set of Dalton QAY- 70.
Will be trying both helix’s once I get full boost and rpms spot on again!!
Last edited:
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Hey I have one of the Dalton 35/39 for sale if anyone wants one. Sorry trying to unload it as I bought the wrong one for my needs
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I’m looking for one will you take 75 for it I live in Sidney not to far from you !!
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From what I have heard these update kits have only been released in Canada and the dealers in the US have not received any yet. I have seen two people on a Sidewinder facebook page say they installed this 2019 update kit on their 2017 Sidewinders and they saw about a 2-300 rpm over rev. Both posters said they ended up going back to the original heavy rivet in the tip of the flyweight to get the rpm's back in check again.
I was originally told that the arrival date was to be Jan. 22nd but just today I heard that it will be later yet.
I was originally told that the arrival date was to be Jan. 22nd but just today I heard that it will be later yet.
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