I think I am in the minority but I fully float the secondary on my sidewinder since 2019 like I have on all my Yamahas, and any of my sleds with a jackshaft, for over 50 years. The only difference on the Sidewinder is I have had to internally shim the secondary for belt deflection[a bit of a pain] as the secondary lacks the belt adjustment screws that were on the previous pre and Pro action, Vmax 4, Apex sleds.
When the sled is stationary, you can grab my SW secondary and slide it in and out on the jackshaft 1/4" to 1/2" so it is allowed
to self align. 1000s and 1000s of tuned trail miles, seasonal snow drags, and no issues. LOL TOUCH WOOD!!!
I know its not the norm but it works for me....
When the sled is stationary, you can grab my SW secondary and slide it in and out on the jackshaft 1/4" to 1/2" so it is allowed
to self align. 1000s and 1000s of tuned trail miles, seasonal snow drags, and no issues. LOL TOUCH WOOD!!!
I know its not the norm but it works for me....
74Nitro
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The all-Japanese Yamaha's didn't float, except for maybe up to 1mm.
Not Mine...
The few Polaris sleds I had I also free floated as well.
As long as the backside of the secondary can't contact the bulkhead/tunnel on the backside in its alignment travel I am happy.
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Motorhead
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I used Green loctite on my 2017 a few years ago! I didn't add any grease to it so it's coming apart this year for that reason, but I thought by moving the bearing back where it belonged, also kept the backside of the Primary from hitting on the engine case?
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Seems to me if you remove the bearing from the shaft you should replace it. If I remember correctly in order to get the bearing off the shaft you needed to press against the outer diameter of the bearing which side loads the bearing quite a bit. My concern is that would damage the bearing. Putting it on is easier as you can use a deep socket or a piece of pipe to drive it on pressing against the center race
74Nitro
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It would have been nice if Yamaha had made the tolerance in there a little more snug, so that the stub shaft would have been up against the inner bearing before allowing it to move a little.
Motorhead
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Yes I agree, but the only reason I took the stub shaft off, was because I thought that I read that the back side of the clutch would scrape against the motor? Am I wrong?
Yes if the Stub shaft has moved in towards the engine due to a blown belt, or something else, the backside of the primary clutch can start to run on the mounting flange bolt heads not to mention the clutch alignment for the belt being out of tolerance resulting in belt issues.
74Nitro
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The stub shaft can only move in a small amount. About .5-.75mm. The inner bearing prevents it from moving any further.
1nc 2000
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Someone makes a washer to go inside engine for Stub shaft.
Maybe Hauck. I dont remember.
Maybe Hauck. I dont remember.
Motorhead
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So with that info, it seems like the clutch back side wouldn’t scrape against those motor flange bolts, even after blowing belts and moving the stub shaft bearing inwards. So I was wrong about reading somewhere that this occurs when stub shaft bearing moves because of blowing belts, So am I also wrong about this bearing needing to be greased during this process?, and can it be greased by just pulling the stub shaft assembly?? Yeah I’m old and I should have taken pics, as usual, to look at instead of wondering if I should have greased it first time around?
See this old thread....
Seeing a lot of these coming in lately and the owners have been complaining about blowing belts.
If you smack your clutch puller hard enough, it will push the snub shaft in. If you blow a belt bad enough, it will push the snub shaft in.
Easy check - look behind your primary clutch to see if you have clearance between the bolt heads holding the snub shaft block and the backside of the primary clutch. You should have .060-.075" (roughly a 1/16")
If your clutch is rubbing the bolt heads, your snub shaft has moved in causing belt blowing issues.
See pics
If you smack your clutch puller hard enough, it will push the snub shaft in. If you blow a belt bad enough, it will push the snub shaft in.
Easy check - look behind your primary clutch to see if you have clearance between the bolt heads holding the snub shaft block and the backside of the primary clutch. You should have .060-.075" (roughly a 1/16")
If your clutch is rubbing the bolt heads, your snub shaft has moved in causing belt blowing issues.
See pics
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
See this old thread....
Seeing a lot of these coming in lately and the owners have been complaining about blowing belts.
If you smack your clutch puller hard enough, it will push the snub shaft in. If you blow a belt bad enough, it will push the snub shaft in.
Easy check - look behind your primary clutch to see if you have clearance between the bolt heads holding the snub shaft block and the backside of the primary clutch. You should have .060-.075" (roughly a 1/16")
If your clutch is rubbing the bolt heads, your snub shaft has moved in causing belt blowing issues.
See pics
Yep, seeing that it seems that the shaft moves a whole lot more than .5-.75 MM. As I recall I had my primary move in by more than a couple MM when it was blowing belts and found the stub shaft had moved inwards, and I never had the clutch come into contact with anything yet either.
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Mine moved far enough the first year that it chewed up the back of my primary. Seems to me it can move more than .75mm too but I've never measured it so who knows.
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Yes and Thanks! This is the old post concerning the rubbing of the back of primary against the bolts shown in pic, and ever since this info was passed on, this is what I kept an eye on to make sure that clutch back to bolt clearance was maintained and not rubbing after blowing a few belts back then! And the pic answered one of my questions on why I didn’t think of greasing that bearing, because it’s a sealed bearing! I still wish I would have thought of popping that seal, cleaning that bearing and adding some black moly grease back then! I used some of that grease on all wheel bearings and secondary shaft bearing, I think this will be 4 years! I’ve checked a few of the wheels and secondary bearing for greasing twice since, on my yearly maintenance, and they still have all that grease still in them!See this old thread....
Seeing a lot of these coming in lately and the owners have been complaining about blowing belts.
If you smack your clutch puller hard enough, it will push the snub shaft in. If you blow a belt bad enough, it will push the snub shaft in.
Easy check - look behind your primary clutch to see if you have clearance between the bolt heads holding the snub shaft block and the backside of the primary clutch. You should have .060-.075" (roughly a 1/16")
If your clutch is rubbing the bolt heads, your snub shaft has moved in causing belt blowing issues.
See pics
