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Mine works perfectly when tested, both with and without the engine running.

The airbox needs to come off and it's right there. Toolbox out, air cleaner out, three hose clamps on the carbs...I forget where the screws are. There is a vent tube that goes under the airbox. It's best to remove it from the oil tank, rather than try and get it together on the sled. Also...

I've seen it more than once. "Adjust preload of the rear shock so the top and bottom of the transfer rod gaps are the same". Here's the problem. On my Rage I can't seem to do this. Even with the preload all the way down, even with my 225lb pushing on the rear grab-rail, straight down. I can...

I got a ride in friday. Local trails, but better ride than I was expecting. The sled is back to the stock settings (per the owners manual) all around except: - 11mm front bar - Straps sucked up 1/4" or so (22mm instead of 15mm) - FRA at Firm/heavy - Preload down a couple notches. -...

Any downsides?

Every small engine and powersports dealer has warned me about this. I've heard stories of this from the new blend gas. But I've not had any issues (YET!). Knock on wood. I do always try to buy Amoco ultimate, I've heard that the whole "clear" thing is somewhat legit. Less crud to be left when...

0-75 is no sweat for the RS series. I think the RX beats it on top end, but for the type of riding you describe the lighter weight of the RS would seem perfect.

I agree with gnip's thinking that he will ride it first before making any adjustments. This gives you an accurate starting point after changing parts. I agree as well, but sleddnig trips aren't a daily thing for me. And I'm trying to tweaking frozen snow covered suspension bits outside the...

What does the combo of the tight center shock and loose front shocks do? I'd think those two would fight each other a bit?

My plan was to put is all back to stock. Only changes are new sway bar, snug the straps up a bit (my dealer noted they were loose just sitting there, which they thought was possibly a problem). I also set my FRA to hard w/ preload and all back to stock. I'll ride it then tinker more.

Just swapped mine, not tinkered yet. Pioneer suggests some changes for both the Vector and Warrior, but nothing for the Rage. The gist was to get more ski pressure from what I can tell. Shorten limiter straps, less front preload.

Press and hold the "down" thumbwarmer when turning the sled on. Wait, holding the button down, for a few seconds (15?) and the sled will power up without needing to start. That's all I know of.

Ok, mine are at the "worn" state. The center is flat, but the sides are still sharp. Maybe I should put them in the classifides? :)

I was lazy, told them "do this and this and this..." been working too much, no free time. Not good but so is life. It looked pretty easy. Not sure if there was any drilling involved. But it's just some screws.

You do need to measure the inside portion as the ends flare. It was easy to change. I'd have a rubber mallet or some such ready, the splined ends needed a tap or two to come apart. But other than that it was pretty straigthforward.

$100 part, $50 labor.

Don't run slow. Ha. Sounds easier than it is. In down it's hard not to. I added the exchanger just for the safety margin. I can't see it being THAT heavy.

Bruce told me 11mm gave you the most benefit. 12mm was better yet, but not as big a difference. I went with the 11mm bar. The stock was 10mm, I measured, it looked smaller. My "trying to rock the sled on the trailer" test shows a HUGE difference. Now I wait for snow.

Agreed, take it to the dealer and get any/all service notices fixed. This includes the clutch noise and the CDI box for the TORS issue. I like mine. Still getting it dialed in, but it's been good.

I had some issues with overheating when running in slower conditions. Say blast across a lake, then putt putt into a town for a mile or two.