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Wouldn't "cranking front springs max", as you like to say, make handling worse? I assume that you tightened up the front springs? The general concensus around here is that you need to loosen the front springs to minimum. This will reduce COG, and help in turns. But you will still want sway...

Damn...I knew that guy was lying when it told me it was a "rock-mobile". :o|

Guess I had a few rocks caught inside my track and it looks like it damaged the lower spring plate on the shock. This piece just slides out when the preload is released from the shock...But can I just buy the plate? I don't need the whole shock. Anyone have one laying around??? Here are...

Re: question... If you have an 03, you need the links ~$70, the sway bar ~$90, Bushings, ~$4. And you will probably want to upgrade the front springs ~$90. So about $250, and it will greatly help the front of the sled.

There is no trick. It's about the easiest thing you can do on the sled with the exception of riding it.

Actually, 160-170 will make more power (denser air charge, less prone to preignition/knock), but it will not be as 'efficient' as a motor running at 210 (i.e. more hydrocarbons, etc in the exhaust). Like others have said, check the ground, maybe even contact Autometer and see if they have...

I think it only shuts down if the throttle has not been touched for 2 minutes or something like that. I.e. If you left it idling for over 2 minutes and it was overheating.

Oh, and by the way... http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,178023,00.html

Hehe..That's not my house...It was a joke. I put up a wreath on the front door and call it a holiday. T-stat. Maybe 195. But not sure...Gotta remember that too cold is not good for combustion/emmisions (which is why new cars run hotter than older cars).

Some of the differences in what other guys are reporting may just be where they located their sensors. I would say that what is more important is that use 210 as your baseline if that's what you get under "normal" conditions. See what temp your guage says when your "warning light" starts...

Check it...

Negative. If you check it with the dipstick screwed in, it will be underfilled, not overfilled.

I've been using the Yamalube 4-CW (Cold Weather). I think it's 5-30 non-synthetic. So far so good, and in the owners manual it does state to stay away from oils of a certain grade because of the starter clutch. MJB

Both the RX and Warrior have 8" carbides. The RX has the 1" track with 144 studs, the Warrior has the 1.25" track with 108 studs in the center. Maybe the Ripsaw is "too" good.

I had my RX and Warrior in Old Forge last week. Trails were in very good condition, and I would take turns riding my RX and Warrior through the same section of trails. It seemed hard for me to get a controlled slide through the turns on the Warrior. On the RX I could 'back' the sled into...

You can buy sled dollies on Ebay, or make your own...One recommendation I may make is that you be sure that the front dollies that go under each ski should have 4 wheels to support the heavy RX front end. I bought a set where the front had only three wheels and the side with one wheel would bend...

Cat, what year is it, and where are you from?

Uhh...Nice avatar??

XM Also has the My-Fi - It's a live satellite handheld radio (like a walkman) that requires no external reciever to be able to listen to programming. It can also record up to 5 hours of music/talk, and has rechargable batteries. http://www.xmradio.com/myfi/index.jsp

Low on fuel? low on oil? Not warmed up yet? If it's not flashing I think those are the only reasons it should remain lit.