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I don't think I could ever go back to a 2-stroke, the stench ruins it for me. If they could develop one that uses a supercharger for scavenging the cylinders instead of the crankcase, that would eliminate the need for the current total loss lubrication system.

Your description is 100% correct... if we were discussing my Arctic Cat T660 Turbo. That sled uses a Suzuki car engine and alternator and works as described. The Yamaha engines and virtually every other snowmobile engine uses a permanent magnet alternator. The output of those cannot be regulated...

Hmmm, interesting. My take on it is that the rated output of the stator at any given RPM is always being consumed, either by the load or by the regulator. If you load the stator beyond its capacity the voltage will sag. If you don't load it enough either through actual load or the shunting of...

I don't really buy the whole "power draw causes failures". Whatever power the stator puts out in watts has to either be consumed by the load of the sleds electrical system or by the regulator in the form of heat. If you reduce the sleds power demands the regulator just shunts the freed up power...

I know after having reverse gear, I won't own a sled without it. I disassembled a reverse box from a parts Phazer I had just to see how it works and what could possibly go wrong. That way I should be able to recognize symptoms before they turn into problems that leave me stranded. With the idle...

After looking at the assembly again I noticed that you wouldn't have to remove it from the bars to get the switch out. I removed mine thinking the switch came out the back side (it doesn't) and also to bring it in where it was warm. It's basically a zip tie and four screws that come off the...

You have to remove the entire assembly from the handlebars first. Then there's a few screws on the side that have to come out to remove a black cover. Then snip a zip tie and remove one more screw. There's a small steel plate that'll come loose after that last screw is removed. I used a pair of...

I recently had my heater switch start acting up. The up position didn't want to respond well so I took it all apart. I was wrong in my previous post, these actually have three wires going to them. One common wire and two switch contact wires. There's a few screws to remove and then I had to pry...

The Camoplast 9033c Freeride (1.5" lug) is the track to get off you can find one. Tons of grip over the stock track and it doesn't suck as much power as the taller lug tracks do. I have a pair of 2010 GT's with this track and absolutely love it.

Mine is experiencing that on occasion, fine for a cleaning. I believe there's only two wires coming out of this switch assembly. Pressing up or down sends a different resistance value to the ECU to signal which button you're selecting.

The whole design of that steering rack is the problem. You can make the bushings fit really snug to reduce slop but then you introduce too much friction making the steering more difficult. It all wears in after awhile but then ends up loose again. I ended up modding both of mine with needle...

On one of mine I had to heat them up with a mapp gas torch to loosen the rust bond. They're suppose to slide right off but rust is mother natures Loctite.

If I remember correctly these things are sensitive to the polarity of the pickup coil wires. They either won't start or run correctly if the two wires are flipped. I'm pretty sure someone else on here will have a much better answer for you.

Both of my Phazers (well used) weren't too impressive or safe feeling when I purchased them. After some adjusting and general maintenance I got them to be somewhat acceptable. We had three guests up this past winter and I was rather scared to let anyone drive them but none had any issues, even...

It fires, half turn of the crank (180) it fires again. Then one and a half turns (540) it fires, then half turn.... you got the idea.

The Phazer doesn't sound like the other parallel twins because of it's unique firing order, 180° - 540° - 180° - 540° rather than every 360° like the others.

Good to hear yours have lasted. I too have read a few horror stories about them but decided to give them a try anyways. Grease in - water out seems to be helpful to bearing life I always figured.

The other thing is to always pop the seals out on new bearings and make sure they actually have grease in them. I've personally seen bearings with little or no grease at all. They don't last too long ran dry.

The bigger the wheel, the better. Those low snow kits are really small so I don't think they'd hold up too well if you like going 100mph all the time. I have them on both of our Phazers and they've been doing great so far this season with over a 1,000 miles on them. Keep in mind this is at a...

Here's a start.