Snapped front torque arm

[Joe_not_exotic]

I have a 2008 phazer RTX. Took it out last night. Ran into some rough stuff.

The front torque arm in the rear suspension snapped sending the forks through the track, locking up the track at about 50 mph. I don't know what other damage has been done.

Are there reinforced or improved torque arms floating around for these things or am I stuck buying factory again? I've never had this happen on my ski doo's but looking around it looks like cracked torque arms was pretty common on the phazer.

 

[2stroken]

You sure you have a 2008? The 2007 had a lot of issues, over course I do think there are about 4 updates to the arm over the years.

 

[Joe_not_exotic]

You sure you have a 2008? The 2007 had a lot of issues, over course I do think there are about 4 updates to the arm over the years.

Yup. They didn't make the RTX in 2007

 

[2stroken]

Yup. They didn't make the RTX in 2007

Yea I have an 2008, just have seen folks mis label them etc. I know they had big issues with the 2007, does yours have an aluminum link in it?

 

[Joe_not_exotic]

I hav

Yea I have an 2008, just have seen folks mis label them etc. I know they had big issues with the 2007, does yours have an aluminum link in it?

I'm not sure. I haven't dug into it yet. We are on a trip and I don't have a heated garage to rip it apart in. I have yet to fully assess all the damage. The two guaranteed replacement parts are the front torque or pivot arm and a new track.

I was pushing the chassis beyond it's capabilities trying to go through a rough section. The newer chassis sleds I was with had no problems with the section. I know I am a better rider than them so I turned it up a notch to keep up but the sled couldn't take it and it gave.

Stinks because this is my backup snowmobile. I sold my primary sled and ordered a new one but it hasn't come in yet. So I need a quick repair if I want to ride this season. And I would like to use better than OEM if I'm doing the repair.

 

[2stroken]

I hav

I'm not sure. I haven't dug into it yet. We are on a trip and I don't have a heated garage to rip it apart in. I have yet to fully assess all the damage. The two guaranteed replacement parts are the front torque or pivot arm and a new track.

I was pushing the chassis beyond it's capabilities trying to go through a rough section. The newer chassis sleds I was with had no problems with the section. I know I am a better rider than them so I turned it up a notch to keep up but the sled couldn't take it and it gave.

Stinks because this is my backup snowmobile. I sold my primary sled and ordered a new one but it hasn't come in yet. So I need a quick repair if I want to ride this season. And I would like to use better than OEM if I'm doing the repair.

Find the newest arm you can, IIRC there were like 4 updates to the W arm. You could also call schmidt brothers, they had updated/reinforced W arms

 

[Confused]

Find the newest arm you can, IIRC there were like 4 updates to the W arm. You could also call schmidt brothers, they had updated/reinforced W arms

With so many updates, I'd go new just so you know.

 

[Joe_not_exotic]

I found the newest update to the pivot arm and ordered it.

Does anyone know the tallest lug I can run on the track for an RTX since I need a new track also?

 

[karl]

I would check the diameter of your track drivers. looks like different drivers for the RTX and the MTX. Otherwise get under the sled and see how much room you have between your current track and the heat exchanger. Cannondale will likely know.

 

[yam429]

I know my brother runs a 1.5” lug on his supercharged 2007 Phazer FX.

 

[2stroken]

I have a 1.5 free ride on my 08 RTX

 

[turbogts22]

The Camoplast 9033c Freeride (1.5" lug) is the track to get off you can find one. Tons of grip over the stock track and it doesn't suck as much power as the taller lug tracks do. I have a pair of 2010 GT's with this track and absolutely love it.

 

[karl]

Track change is getting into the chain case so you can change gearing while doing the job. It really depends on where and in what conditions you ride in. I ran a 159"x16"x2" challenger track on a 2007 MP with the same motor and chain case and geared it down as low as was possible. I ride mostly deep off trail snow. The 500 motor pulled the track just fine, and that was a big track. I was running the 17x45 tooth sprockets with the long chain. It really depends on where you want to end up with the project. Gearing down is the next best thing to adding horse power. If you ride mostly packed trails stick with a 1.5 lug. finding a 14" wide track that you want may be the bigger challenge, you may have to cut a 15" track to 14" which has been done a lot.

 

[maim]

if you can get the 1.5" paddle track, i would install it with a set of scratchers as it can burn the hyfax in some conditions. lots of room on the stock 9 tooth drivers for the 1.5 lug track. i check that link every time i service the one i sold my brother.