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I thought Yamaha quit making thier under tunnel exhaust on thier touring models because of ice build up? I like the sdr exhaust and I hear it sounds good, just needs to be (sandwiched) sealed off from the snow.

Your adjusters have nothing to do with ride hieght. The springs hold the sled up. The stock springs are too soft and don't have enough preload to return the sled to proper ride height.Also, the rate is too soft, and causes the rear to bottom on G outs. I have been setting up the xtx's with one...

Xtx is set up with soft rear springs and sags too far into the travel,which causes the rear arm too couple up early and load the #*$&@ out of the front. Back off the coupling nuts all the way first, then set the sag with the rear springs with the rider seated on the sled. Sag should be 1/3...

Now you just jinxed yourself

gears when up on the 2step @ 20+ PSI. Installing 1" Hacksaw and bunch of studs as well. With the winter we have been having I may spend more time then normal on the lake. Just a ? but why buy the long track then put a 1in track on it?

It's common on these sleds for the airbox to be wet with oil , especially after top end running. I put a stud in the heat exchanger last year, and just welded it with the track removed, and that worked well. I dont't see why you need to remove it.

shock pic HERE'S A GROUP, BUT JUST THE REAR

I have a HyGear revalved rear for a XTX for sale if you need one. Has the HI\LOW speed bottle on it. Make me an offer.

If u go with a pc v, u might as well get the auto tune as well. With this u can tune any mods on the fly.

U forgot about the tunnels buckling from ice build up in the rear. Shame on Cat for rushing this sled to production screw'n all theses buyers. The chain case issue is major, and don't think they'll fix it in 2013 model year. 2014 suzuki is out as motor builder, and thier producing thier own...

Made up an adjuster,but have to see about clearance and a couple other things. Need to get a 12mmx 1.00 bottoming tap to do this rite.

Stay tuned, I'm working on it.

Just a FYI anyone who flashes a ecu on the turbos,just voided their warrenty on a sled plauged with issues. Cat VIN locked all the ecu's and require them to be sent in before any warrenty work is done.

Thank you!

If someone could measure the distance between the rear arm and the idler wheel mounts on the tunnel, i'm tring to install a 136 mono into a rage and don't have this measurement. Just a tape measure is good enough.

I would'nt recommend running the high wattage bulbs. They'll fry the plugs and possibly start your sled on fire, not to mention what could happen to the stator. I tried some plasma glows 100/80 watt bulbs and cooked the plugs beyond use. I now have PIAA sport bulbs and they're brighter than...

Installing one apex mountian torsion spring(along with the hygear spacers), and a fox zero pro rear shock from carver made the suspension feel like it acually moves when your riding over bumps.

I would love too see a 4stk class added to snow-x, since every manufacture has one, but it'll never happen because we know what brand would dominate it.

Hygear revalved my rear shock, only to have it split apart. Wasted alot of money. I replaced it with fox, and works better than revalve.

I put in a Fox zero pro , and is a way better shock, even though there's no clicker. It works better over a wide range of conditions than the stock clicker factoring in all the adjustments, and for $249 (Caver)