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I think your sensor is in the right place, and you shouldn't have too many issues with it as far as life goes unless you run race fuel in it, or run consistantly very rich. I don't have much on the PC map for you so I'm not going to be much help there, but if you're familiar with the program...

That does seem a bit rich, which wideband did you get and what was its calibration procedure? Also, where was it installed in the pipe?

The throttle position sensor does not "crack" the throttle open at cold idle. Its simply a sensor that sends a 0-5 volt signal to the ecu for it to reference fuel and spark tables. That's it. There's no mechanical or electrical device in there that moves the blades. It only tells the computer...

I'll assume I understand what you're asking, and that is assuming there is a blockage that it will be tighter at idle? Yes, that's true if that's what you're asking. There is actually less airflow to the motor when its cold that at idle when warm. Basically, the throttle blades close...

Grunter. They're air bleeds only, there's no fuel through them. All it does is meter idle air around (past) the throttle blades.

If you still have the factory screen and/or foam piece below the airbox lid, you're good to go. The only thing the airbox mod does is enlarge the original opening in the bottom of the airbox. You simply cut the horn off that sticks down in the same location, which leaves a larger opening, and...

I'd be surprised if it was, since that's usually just an aftermarket product. I'm pretty sure the same blue coolant Be Cool uses is the same stuff found in many foreign (non US) vehicles. I can't say I know much about the actual differences, but I have switched to using it exclusively after...

According to the service manual, for an '06 Apex it lists a Periodic oil change capacity of 2.8L/2.5 Imp qt/3.0US qt (without filter), with oil filter change is listed as 3.0L/2.6Imp qt/3.2 US qt, and a total ammount of 3.8L/3.3 Imp qt/4.0 US qt. I didn't realize you were dealing with liters and...

I will add that the Cobra does use a softer durometer rubber, and the lugs do have a little more "flex" than others, so I do think it probably won't last as long as some of the other models. I do also think that because it's a little softer it helps it bite better in certain conditions. I was...

BE COOL's antifreeze is blue, so if you're into the hot rod car scene, you'll know who that is. If not and you need some help, pm me and I can get you some. Its more expensive than dexcool or the green stuff, but you don't dilute it at all, and it does work far better than the orange or green.

There is a small amount of oil to drain from the block, but you'll add all the oil back to the system through the oil tank only. There is one socket head bolt in the oil pan near the back/middle of the oil pan, its not hard to tell which one it is. Should hold just short of 3.5 qts with filter...

To bypass the TORS, just find the black and white single wire connectors in the rubber boot at the base of the handle bars. The white and black should be plugged into their respective colors from the handle bar harness to the chassis harness. Simply unplug them, and on the chassis harness side...

Yes, you can foul them, and even though its efi, its not fool proof. First year I had my apex i put them in mine, I added exhaust and a few other mods over the following summer. Like a newb idiot I was starting it all the time when buddies would show up, or when I was tinkering with it. First...

If the hole is on the bottom of the airbox I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure there isn't alot of loose dirt/debris in the engine compartment, and it should be fine.

I have the 1.35 Cobra on am XTX skid in my '06 Apex, with no studs, and I ride aggressively with the sled and couldn't be happier with it. It is supposed to give up a little side bite in corners (compared to what I don't know, but that's according to Camoplast), but I don't notice any slipping...

Excalibur101, your post was edited to make it more than one sentence and maybe not as hard to understand. Before this topic goes too far off track... I see lots of people failing to realize one thing quite often. While ranting about quality control, is that although they are manufacturers...

I would be curious to find out if anyone who is having this issue can determine if their sled is getting fuel while cranking-when it's not starting that is. I've been thinking of possible issues on an efi system that would prevent it from starting, and I'd be hard pressed to think it's 100% due...

Be careful when adjusting the valves open, a you may have to adjust the Co settings again. If you're comfortable messing with then that's good, otherwise let the dealer do it. If you have an afr gauge on it, that will help, otherwise it may take a little bit of messing with it to get them right...

Excalibur101, you are correct that it's still built to Yamaha's specs, but I should have clarified that my point was that there are differences between the two, and not that it it's necessarily a problem. Just like the clutching differences, it just takes a little tweaking. That being said...

From what I understand, (and I'm not a viper owner), the ecu is a CAT piece, and not the same as the Nytro ecu. This could explain a calibration issue, but if the sled is getting too hot to restart, there's another issue there. Even though the temp rises after shut down, it shouldn't rise enough...