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Wow, I didn’t drill anything, but just wanted it running and it is but not sure where to plug in the boost control? Plugged in the intake because it fit, but SD_22 code… as for drilling, the turbo housing does need machining if you only replace the guts with the 9 blade impeller vs the 10 blade...

Lol, a few hours and I’m still trying to fit it back in. What a pain! Hope to finish tomorrow.

Yes, I did most upgrades last two years, installed fuel pump and header this summer, ran great. Just getting this WASTEGATE is being difficult. I honestly can’t recall, but I believe in the first upgrade I went up to the 3 bar from stock which I think is 2 bar, but for where mine is heading...

Ok thanks, yes TD tunes, most upgrades from TD/Gap flasher with jukebox, iPad with data logger and boost control, all the stage 4+ upgrades like header, fuel pump, aem fuel control etc. Tapp button style primary, stock secondary with upgraded spring/rollers, 22 tooth top gear with roller...

Do you have 4bar map sensor? 3bar “should” be good over 20, but not 30 from what I understand.

That is NOT the emoji I typed in OP… hahaha!!

And what is your crack recommendation as I’ve heard different values, mine recommended 11-14 pounds, waiting on pressure gun to test…

Crazy that I can’t find any good install videos on YT, found just for controller…

Thank you, I had thought of that, but after removing a couple of bolts and hoses, I seem to just be getting closer to have a sled in pieces that i may forget how to put together. Lol. I did want to take it off anyway as I have some turbo cleaner and running it through when running isn’t...

Can’t get to bolts to change actuator. Posted elsewhere, need help. Thank you

I need help. I love reading the comments about not getting boost, but I can’t even get my WASTEGATE installed! Lol. The torx stripped and I spent an hour drilling etc to get it out, now I see there is a second screw that I can’t access… I have so much apart, I just hope I can get it back...

I borrowed a belt deflection tool from a friend, it’s from straight line performance and the numbers don’t go high enough, so it measures differently… says in the instructions to check for Yamaha specs at Totally Yamaha, but wondering if you are aware of what number would match up with the 58.2...

Not sure if mine is TP (Thunder Products?). But mine says used to be 6-1, but now they recommend 6-2 (80)

Yeah, it’s waxy, not from short starts etc as I always bring it up to temp, but makes sense… iPone says they only stand by their oil for 3 years after manufacture date printed on bottle, then oil starts to separate from additives and my bottle said 2019… either way, I put in the EZ oil change...

So, still not sure what happened, was able to clear code with Gap flasher today, but the white buildup at top of oil reservoir and cap was a bit more this morning after loading sleds to go watch Eganville races (Bonnechere Cup). It seems that iPone does not guarantee their oil will be any good...

Thanks guys, I’m pretty sure it’s still pumpin as I could see oil coming in the top of the tank from the line coming in near top of the tank, but it was moving quite a bit which I hadn’t noticed before, so air in the system may be true… I will try the reprime idea, but will the code go away on...

I run right at 20, but spikes higher, depends how I get on it but pretty sure I saw 26 spike, usually 24-25. No fuel pump, SQ 3”, 3 bar MAP, Turbosmart BOV, CAI, silicone charge tubes, no closed loop yet but coming when I can afford the extra 1k, pump 94 with a gallon of C16 mixed per tank (8:1...

Got it, thanks!

I just did an oil change (first), drained ALL oil and filled with 3 quarts which the manual said and it’s not even close to min line, then on the way home, idiot plow guys put huge uneven bank blocking trail, I hit it too slow and sled went on it’s side. Got her up, restarted, and now has sd 30...

Can you provide link to that page? Can’t find it on the site, looked fora while. Thanks