I just did an oil change (first), drained ALL oil and filled with 3 quarts which the manual said and it’s not even close to min line, then on the way home, idiot plow guys put huge uneven bank blocking trail, I hit it too slow and sled went on it’s side. Got her up, restarted, and now has sd 30 alarm… checked oil level after home, and still too low after sitting a few minutes. Added more oil, noticed vapour coming out fill hole and white around threads and on cap. Oil used was iPone 0W40 which seemed extremely thick for a 0… code still there after shutting off for a couple minutes. Added more oil and put her to bed till tomorrow. Am I missing something? Installed Precision EFI ez oil change too.
First Oil Change, plus roll to left side, sd 30
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blevis213
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Part 23 is the pressure switch. Its behind the primary and under the motor. Take the oil filter change cover off and you'll see it. Unhook the battery and change it out. This is what we needed to do to my buds sled when he had the code sd30.
blevis213
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partzilla.com under crankcase for your sled and you'll see the page and part number
KnappAttack
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I've never experienced this myself, but thought I've read that the oil pump can loose prime if you roll it?
I just remember that if it happens that you need to plug the vent off the top of the oil tank momentarily to get it to prime again. I think I'm remembering that correctly.
I remember reading it years ago from the mountain guy/company that built an expensive electric tether type roll over valve for the Winder.
I just remember that if it happens that you need to plug the vent off the top of the oil tank momentarily to get it to prime again. I think I'm remembering that correctly.
I remember reading it years ago from the mountain guy/company that built an expensive electric tether type roll over valve for the Winder.
KnappAttack
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Yep, here is where I read it.
roll-over-valve-kit-features
If a four stroke snowmobile is laying of its side with engine still running, the oil pump can start to draw air due to the suction port in the oil tank being exposed to air. When this happens the low oil pressure switch may shut down the engine to help protect the engine. During this time the engine oil pump may have also lost its prime.
When the rider gets the snowmobile back upright, he or she may find that the engine may not re-start or starts and shuts down within a few seconds due to no oil pressure.
You can also press the Quick-prime switch after the engine has started and notice that the oil pressure light is on. In this case it's best to push and hold the Quick-prime switch right away, so that the pump has time to re-prime before the low oil pressure switch shuts the engine down. When using the Quick Prime switch, normally the oil pump will re-prime within about 2 to 3 seconds.
Because the Quick Prime system uses air pressure to operate which is controlled by the ROVCM, the snowmobile does not necessarily have to be on level ground to function! The snowmobile only needs to be some what "rubber side down". This can be a real asset for mountain riders who may be stuck on the side of a hill or other mountain riding conditions and it is desirable to re-prime the oil pump as quickly as possible!
To re-prime the oil pump without a ROV with the Quick Prime feature, requires removing the right side panel. Then removing the oil tank breather tube from the air box assembly and then manually plugging the breather tube while cranking the engine over. What this does is pressurize the oil tank, which in turn forces oil to the oil pump to re-prime it.
roll-over-valve-kit-features
Engine oil pump re-priming mode:
The Quick Prime system is a fast, convenient way to re-prime the oil pump by simply pressing and holding a button!If a four stroke snowmobile is laying of its side with engine still running, the oil pump can start to draw air due to the suction port in the oil tank being exposed to air. When this happens the low oil pressure switch may shut down the engine to help protect the engine. During this time the engine oil pump may have also lost its prime.
When the rider gets the snowmobile back upright, he or she may find that the engine may not re-start or starts and shuts down within a few seconds due to no oil pressure.
Using the Quick-prime switch.
To use the Quick-prime switch simply press and hold the Quick-prime switch down while starting the engine. Once the oil pressure light goes out on the gauge, release the Quick-prime switch. It's that simple, quick and easy to use!You can also press the Quick-prime switch after the engine has started and notice that the oil pressure light is on. In this case it's best to push and hold the Quick-prime switch right away, so that the pump has time to re-prime before the low oil pressure switch shuts the engine down. When using the Quick Prime switch, normally the oil pump will re-prime within about 2 to 3 seconds.
Because the Quick Prime system uses air pressure to operate which is controlled by the ROVCM, the snowmobile does not necessarily have to be on level ground to function! The snowmobile only needs to be some what "rubber side down". This can be a real asset for mountain riders who may be stuck on the side of a hill or other mountain riding conditions and it is desirable to re-prime the oil pump as quickly as possible!
To re-prime the oil pump without a ROV with the Quick Prime feature, requires removing the right side panel. Then removing the oil tank breather tube from the air box assembly and then manually plugging the breather tube while cranking the engine over. What this does is pressurize the oil tank, which in turn forces oil to the oil pump to re-prime it.
blevis213
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Do what Knapp says first he’s a lot more knowledgeable than me. If that doesn’t work then change out the pressure switch it worked for us. We chased the issue for awhile and then finally figured it out.
Thanks guys, I’m pretty sure it’s still pumpin as I could see oil coming in the top of the tank from the line coming in near top of the tank, but it was moving quite a bit which I hadn’t noticed before, so air in the system may be true… I will try the reprime idea, but will the code go away on its own??? I have a refashion I can use to clear codes if needed, and can try clearing fault codes through Gap flasher…. Going to try today. It seems that codes never go away even when problem is solved. I was getting sd 85 when I first got it tuned but haven’t got it since I added a bit more oil.
So, still not sure what happened, was able to clear code with Gap flasher today, but the white buildup at top of oil reservoir and cap was a bit more this morning after loading sleds to go watch Eganville races (Bonnechere Cup). It seems that iPone does not guarantee their oil will be any good after 3 years from manufacture, and of course my jug was made in 2019, so for several reasons, I’ll be draining that brand new overpriced crap, requesting refund from seller, and putting the oil Ive been using in everything I own for decades… AMSOIL! . Hopefully can get that done in the morning so I can finally open her up on MS20 to see what needs to be done next… . Thanks guys, still no idea why this machine throws so many codes, especially when they are all just microsecond abnormalities… the code should clear itself, but doesn’t, indicating an ongoing issue, but after clearing, they never come back. Love the sled, hate the stupid technology that seems to have been put out before properly tested.
Thanks again people, loving this group so far, a wealth of knowledge and real world experience!
Thanks again people, loving this group so far, a wealth of knowledge and real world experience!
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Curious if the white goes away with changing oil.. Good update.. Let us know about MS 20!
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Oil in a bottle lasts quite a long time according to Rat540 blog. The clock only starts ticking as soon as you put it in an engine and run it.
The white on top of the oil cap is condensation and its normal. The more starts and stops of the engine without bringing up to temperature without actually running it, the more condensation you'll have in the oil tank..... Doesn't matter what brand of oil or weight of oil you use, you will get condensation.
The condensation will burn off when you get the oil to operating temperature. This usually takes longer by quite a bit than just engine water temperature. In my old turbo car, it took about a half hour of continuous running to get the oil up to operating temperature which was typically about 220 to 225F.
According to the Rat540 blog, the number one oil for wear protection is Quaker State 5w-30 Full Synthetic in the green bottle.
The white on top of the oil cap is condensation and its normal. The more starts and stops of the engine without bringing up to temperature without actually running it, the more condensation you'll have in the oil tank..... Doesn't matter what brand of oil or weight of oil you use, you will get condensation.
The condensation will burn off when you get the oil to operating temperature. This usually takes longer by quite a bit than just engine water temperature. In my old turbo car, it took about a half hour of continuous running to get the oil up to operating temperature which was typically about 220 to 225F.
According to the Rat540 blog, the number one oil for wear protection is Quaker State 5w-30 Full Synthetic in the green bottle.
jonlafon1
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EXACTLY
Yeah, it’s waxy, not from short starts etc as I always bring it up to temp, but makes sense… iPone says they only stand by their oil for 3 years after manufacture date printed on bottle, then oil starts to separate from additives and my bottle said 2019… either way, I put in the EZ oil change kit fro Performance EFI, so easy enough to just drain it and put Smsoil in to be safe. Thanks for the input!! Going out for a long hard ride today, so should burn off any condensation, will update after ride. Have a great day everyone.
