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They are only 35.00 new with the keys. Already ordered. Thanks though. Took me a while to dig up schematics on the net. Couldn't go out and buy manuals until I hit on one that would work. lol

It appears the most common of all yamaha 2 stroke sled switchs will work. Has a start position that is not needed but even the wiring colors are correct.

Yes but you won't get to it all.

The button or shoe is 1.0 mm minimum at the thin end. There is quite a bit too keeping these clutches serviced. If you don't have the manual go on ebay and for 10.00 or so get a cd , pdf version. A lot of the mountain riders service them every 4 or 5 rides. Trail riding doesn't put near as...

If some one knows the schematics of some of the old 2 stroke sleds that may work for the bike. double pole, single throw. No starter relay position needed. My terminology might be off, a double pole double throw toggle switch would be needed to replace it if it were to be used.

I need a yamaha key switch for an obsoleted part on a bike. It is a simple double pole single throw set up. It connects two wires when on and disconnects another two. When off it disconnects the first two and connects (grounds the cdi) on the other two. The starter relay has it's own button so...

Aluminum does not fatigue like steel. It cracks instead. The best chance of straightening it is to put boards on either side and clamp it flat. I wouldn't risk my motor on it, but that is up to you. There is no way I would take a hammer to it.

Fire it up on your lawn. They pull like a mad dog on grass. Don't flip it.

Buy them from Yamaha if they are aluminum.

Beautiful brindle coat on him. wow.

Like a big dog waiting to get it's belly rubbed.

Tucked them away until fall.

After seeing the nytro rod knock thread and the comments about all the roll overs I think I am going to start adding the zddp additive to bring it back to 1400 or so. The only reason I can find for the lowering of the levels is to save the catalytic converters on cars. Yamalube and Mobile 1...

Finished up making the last of my clutch tools. About 25.00 invested in materials and another 25.00 in blades, wire, gas , grinding wheels, drill bits etc..

Mobil1 5-30 weight has a pour point of -65 F. Don't worry too much, Your chain case should be pretty well locked up at those temps.

My factory manual reads , and I quote, " Use only 4-stroke engine oil. In order to prevent starter clutch slippage do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY...

I think the Yamaha manual says to stay away from cd / diesel grade oils. I don't know why but I'm pretty sure I read it. page 2-21 of the manual

Thanks Scott. I gave the wiring some thought last night and can see it's pretty simple to have the grounding type tether switch the relay from one set of closed contacts to another set to close the roll over valve, while opening the first set to kill the motor.

If it is grounding the ignition instead of opening it It's not a healthy way to do it for the electronics. The kill switch opens the ignition. Maybe through a relay it does just that. 2 strokes generally ground out the ignition to kill the engine, four strokes generally cut the power to the...

The pro armor is a normally open tether. Not a good choice for the ECU. I have been looking at the MPS but still need a roll over valve to accompany it.