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Oil, I know this has been covered but please humor me.

Mobile 1 or Yamalube

  • Mobile 1

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Yamalube Full Synthetic

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .
I think the Yamaha manual says to stay away from
cd / diesel grade oils. I don't know why but I'm pretty sure I read it.

page 2-21 of the manual
 

My factory manual reads , and I quote, " Use only 4-stroke engine oil. In order to prevent starter clutch slippage do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use
oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING 2" or higher.
 
Actually wix's makes a good filters...run them on my trucks and cars didn't know they made them for sleds going to check in to that
 
09nytro said:
Actually wix's makes a good filters...run them on my trucks and cars didn't know they made them for sleds going to check in to that
Click to expand...

It's actually an auto plus filter that is made by WIX...I have also used Yamaha Grizzly 660 filters which are the same ones used in the Apex.
 
mcamzr said:
Is there a reason why not a lot of you use the 0w40?
Click to expand...

I chose 0W-40 mainly due to the fact that I couldn't purchase the "Green" capped Mobil-1 0W-30 up here in Canada.

After doing some research and taking the advice of a dragster engine builder on here, I chose the Mobil-1 0W-40 European formula as it contains more ZDDP and is used in some high end engines in Europe and throughout the world.
(Excellent UOA's too and can be purchased for $10 bucks a litre on sale ;)! )
 
Roadrider said:
My factory manual reads , and I quote, " Use only 4-stroke engine oil. In order to prevent starter clutch slippage do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use
oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING 2" or higher.
Click to expand...

This has been covered many times and has been proven to longer be true.
(Do a search)
 
Believe me I've searched till I was blue in the face. I found a lot of info but wanted to do the poll just to see the straight up numbers of the M1 to YL.
 
Do you guys have strong feelings about using 0 weight vs 5 weight? 5w has a pour point to -40 or something like that. I used it last year in my sleds but actually never felt good in my gut about it. I find it hard to find a good 0w synthetic around where I live.
 
Right now autozone has 5 quarts and a filter or 0/40 of any weight Mobil one for $32. They can order the filter for the sled.
 
slimjim2525 said:
Do you guys have strong feelings about using 0 weight vs 5 weight? 5w has a pour point to -40 or something like that. I used it last year in my sleds but actually never felt good in my gut about it. I find it hard to find a good 0w synthetic around where I live.
Click to expand...


Mobil1 5-30 weight has a pour point of -65 F. Don't worry too much, Your chain case should be pretty well locked up at those temps.
 
After seeing the nytro rod knock thread and the comments about all the roll overs I think I am going to
start adding the zddp additive to bring it back to 1400 or so. The only reason I can find for the lowering of the levels is to save the catalytic converters on cars.
Yamalube and Mobile 1 are both as anemic as any in
zddp. Dry starts are also all too common as these things sit between seasons and rides.

Any thoughts on this from you guys?
 
slimjim2525 said:
Do you guys have strong feelings about using 0 weight vs 5 weight? 5w has a pour point to -40 or something like that. I used it last year in my sleds but actually never felt good in my gut about it. I find it hard to find a good 0w synthetic around where I live.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth I know guys around here who use 5w30 castrol syntec labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING 2" or higher that have 20,000 kms ++ on their sleds.
 
Roadrider said:
After seeing the nytro rod knock thread and the comments about all the roll overs I think I am going to
start adding the zddp additive to bring it back to 1400 or so. The only reason I can find for the lowering of the levels is to save the catalytic converters on cars.
Yamalube and Mobile 1 are both as anemic as any in
zddp. Dry starts are also all too common as these things sit between seasons and rides.

Any thoughts on this from you guys?
Click to expand...

The Mobil-1 European Formula has a higher concentration of ZDDP than their other or regular North American oils.

I am not sure of the numbers or if it is even close to 1400 but a bit of research might tell you that it isn't req'd to add the additive if your running the European Formula?

When I first ran the Mobil-1 European Formula 0W-40 syn, I couldn't believe how much quieter my sled ran compared to the Yamalube that was in it prior ;)!
 
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