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bent front heat exchanger


Well if you are changing the cooler you have to pull engine out anyway so flip it upside down and pull bottom half and check bearings....or to be safe just replace the bearings and call it good.......cheaper to do it how then later...
 
well I guess I didn't plan on changing the cooler bc it really doesn't effect anything. The track doesn't hit it and it is not cracked or anything.

But this engine thing does bother me quite a bit. If I drop the engine that's all I need to do is pull the bottom cover off and the rod bearings are right there? How am I to check them? If it turns out they are bad how do you take them off to change them?

I guess I have never had a fourstroke engine apart before. If I dive in to this is it a big project? I should say is it going to be a tough job for a inexperienced person?
 
well I guess I didn't plan on changing the cooler bc it really doesn't effect anything. The track doesn't hit it and it is not cracked or anything.

But this engine thing does bother me quite a bit. If I drop the engine that's all I need to do is pull the bottom cover off and the rod bearings are right there? How am I to check them? If it turns out they are bad how do you take them off to change them?

I guess I have never had a fourstroke engine apart before. If I dive in to this is it a big project? I should say is it going to be a tough job for a inexperienced person?
 
Also if I go ahead and take the engine out I am going to replace the bearings. So which ones would I need? does anyone have a blow up of what it will look like and which bearings would be needed?
 
I just read through this thread I found on the stock skid plate
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... &start=105

After I read through it I checked the skid plate and the mark that I mentioned in one of my previous posts that was directly below the filter I believe to be caused by the stock aluminum plates rubbing on it because there is also a mark on the stock skid plate that looks like it had been rubbing in that spot.

I guess I am thinking that the oil filter was missed. The reason I say this is because by the looks of the dent in the subframe and by the way the cooler looks I think that if the oil filter was hit it the it would have also taken a chunk out of the bottom of the engine were it hangs out past the oil filter. But I could be wrong. Also, when I did ride it before I bought it the engine sounded very good no knock that I could hear of any kind.

Also, I looked at the bottom of the stock skid plate and there are a couple very minor scratches it doesnt seem to be cracked or anything of the sort. Also the aluminum inside is not bent at all. But it could have been relpaced with a new one. That is something I will never know.

I dont know what do you guys think?
 
Replacing the cooler, DOES NOT require removing motor, also it is a pretty simple job once you start getting into it, I have done many and the best way is to loosen or remove right side die cast plate. also it is possible to change cooler without removing diecast plate, but not the easiest, and requires a bit of a modification to the cooler pipe.
 
I'm sure it will be fine...I would check oil pressure just for peace of mind

I think if you pulled the rear suspension out and driveshaft out you should be able to get it back in shape with a dead blow hammer
 
Ya that's kinda what I had planned on trying just to get it somewhat back in its origmal shape. And I am sure one day I will tear into this thing deeper and I will change it then.

Is there a certain way that you know of to check oil pressure? Some sort of gauge that can be hooked up/installed?
 
Aluminum does not fatigue like steel. It cracks instead. The best chance of straightening it is to put
boards on either side and clamp it flat. I wouldn't risk my motor on it, but that is up to you. There is no way I
would take a hammer to it.
 
Roadrider said:
Aluminum does not fatigue like steel. It cracks instead. The best chance of straightening it is to put
boards on either side and clamp it flat. I wouldn't risk my motor on it, but that is up to you. There is no way I
would take a hammer to it.

Good point .......crankshafts has a good point also....
 
crank shaft said:
IMO if it dont leak then leave it alone. Put on a real skid and never look back.

It's too bent to properly integrate with a skid plate. Try straightening it with the wood as mentioned above and if that is not successful, replace it.
 
Roest said:
crank shaft said:
IMO if it dont leak then leave it alone. Put on a real skid and never look back.

It's too bent to properly integrate with a skid plate. Try straightening it with the wood as mentioned above and if that is not successful, replace it.
After reading this thread yesterday I ordered a skid plate from you. I have hit some chit but have been lucky so far. Figured I better get one of your skid plates before my luck runs out.
 


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