rbig18
Pro
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- SR Viper ltx se
Thanks in advance. I know little about these clutch systems and was hoping if some of you looked at the pictures could tell me if you see anything wrong? In particular on the secondary buttons? The primary although a little dirty feels tight. the weights and ramps seem to have to groves in them and the rollers only have a small amount of play.
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The button or shoe is 1.0 mm minimum at the thin end. There is quite a bit too keeping these clutches serviced. If you don't have the manual go on ebay and
for 10.00 or so get a cd , pdf version. A lot of the mountain riders service them every 4 or 5 rides. Trail
riding doesn't put near as much demand on them.
With the primary cover off (The spring isn't that tough) slide the sheave to it's loosest point and check the bushing play. Very little wobble should be present.
It should also be free enough that it would drop on it's own if set horizontal on a bench. Low mileage ones may be a bit tighter than that.
I'm sort of new to it as well so that's about all I can offer.
for 10.00 or so get a cd , pdf version. A lot of the mountain riders service them every 4 or 5 rides. Trail
riding doesn't put near as much demand on them.
With the primary cover off (The spring isn't that tough) slide the sheave to it's loosest point and check the bushing play. Very little wobble should be present.
It should also be free enough that it would drop on it's own if set horizontal on a bench. Low mileage ones may be a bit tighter than that.
I'm sort of new to it as well so that's about all I can offer.
rbig18
Pro
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- SR Viper ltx se
Thanks Roadrider. Are you saying I can take the primary cover off without pulling the whole clutch? That would make it easier to inspect and clean.
Yes but you won't get to it all.
APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
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How many miles on them.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
I would replace my secondary buttons every year, or about every 3,000-4,000 miles of aggressive trail riding due to wear. If you've made it a few years already then you could probably extend that to every two or three depending. Bottom line is I wouldn't push it, when they wear through you'll be buying a new sheave, because it will likely break a tower off. Now, depending on how you ride they may last forever, or until the sheaves wear out, it all depends on your style and setup. If you've added more twist, or a stronger spring you'll probably wear them out faster than stock, different helix (steeper) same thing. A little trick is to smooth out the ramps of the helix (buff them out if possible) to produce a smooth and low friction surface (Thanks SJ).
The MOST important thing is to buy the STOCK YAMAHA buttons, you will laugh and cry at the price when compared to the aftermarket ones but just suck it up and pay. If you don't you will pay later, the aftermarket ones didn't make it one trip.
The MOST important thing is to buy the STOCK YAMAHA buttons, you will laugh and cry at the price when compared to the aftermarket ones but just suck it up and pay. If you don't you will pay later, the aftermarket ones didn't make it one trip.
rbig18
Pro
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- SR Viper ltx se
Thanks guys.. The sled has 8500 miles but new to me so I have to assume they are original. So far I plan to replace
1. Primary bushing
2. Primary and secondary springs
3. Secondary buttons
This sound about right? I do about 500 miles a year on average.
1. Primary bushing
2. Primary and secondary springs
3. Secondary buttons
This sound about right? I do about 500 miles a year on average.
Redbeard
Lifetime Member
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- 2012 Apex, 136 M20, PB80
2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Double check the bushings in the primary rollers and fly weights too. Make sure you index the outer cover on the primary clutch before disassembly / assembly.
vx700xtc
Expert
The MOST important thing is to buy the STOCK YAMAHA buttons, you will laugh and cry at the price when compared to the aftermarket ones but just suck it up and pay. If you don't you will pay later, the aftermarket ones didn't make it one trip.[/quote]
X2
X2
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