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I have 5018 miles on sled and 2900 of those was from last year with just a stage 1 tune . I wasnt very nice to it and never blew a belt. Never blew a belt the year before either when it was stock. I was hoping I had a rare good one but who knows

I was told the 22 top gear is alot harder on belts?? Truth? Or? Also if I do change the top gear to a 22 do I need a different chain? Thanks for input

Took my secondary off to clean it up and to change my Helix back to a straight 35 verses the 33/35. I did not notice this when I changed the stock secondary spring to the Dalton Black/ Orange. Updated version so was set at 6-2. Anybody come across this on there secondary clutch? I never blew a...

I am running stock gearing right now. I contacted the dealer i got the stuff from and he was mixed up. He said try just the 3/8 slug first. Which would put me at 76.2 I believe. Which has me thinking might be a tad light? I guess best way is to play around and test when the season gets here.

Ok guys So I just went with the TD max 17 tune with CAI and turbo force exhaust. Also Turbo smart BOV. I will be running the Dalton updated B/O secondary spring wrapped at 6-2. With a Dalton straight 35 helix. Primary spring will be Dalton Black/ Green with glide washers running the DATY-1...

I was told this is the incorrect way to install it. I was told to set the belt adjuster then torque the primary bolt any truth to that?

So the new updated dalton black orange says to wrap at 6/2 so i should try 9/1

My sled does the same thing. 2017 with the new updated Dalton black orange secondary spring. 33/35 Dalton Helix. Rollers are good. When I let off and coast or even using break it does it. It stays down about 3/16ths. But after it stops and I just quickly bump throttle enough to engage and let...

Not looking for huge hook up mainly safety my sled is also stock not tuned..

I have alot of time to change them out if i decide to use bigger nuts. What size you recommend for a 1.40 stud. They got 1/2 inch and 3/4 are next sizes up from what came with them. I was thinking 1/2 inch. Maybe bad choice??

Very true. But I would rather have them bend or break than tear out. Reason i went with the nuts that came with the studs verses buying the tall nuts. ;)

Just want to give a shout out to Rocker Dan for the studding info as I never studded a track before. I went with his pattern. I did go with the extreme max lower profile stud heads in a 1.40 length though. They dont come in a 1.450. I also still used Woodys backers with them. They do suck up...

Recieved My new Spring today. What a great company. Top Notch. For anybody getting the new spring make sure you read the directions that come with it. As the tangs are located different and if you were running the old one at 6-1 you need to run the new one at 6-2 for the same torsion as the old one.

The reason why I was asking is because I marked the holes exactly how you have your backers set up in your photo of template and the top row on your template with the round backers. It will put the backer within a 1/16 inch of being flush with my track window. Was wondering if thats how it is on...

Dan, in the top row of your template with the 2 round backers. Is that the holes you actually used? On my track this puts the stud pretty close to the window where the backer will be pretty much flush to edge of track on window.

Do you really have to take skid out to put the STM kit in? Im curious to know why most seem to be just using the rear heat exchanger protectors and not full tunnel protectors all the way to front? Are all the way up front not needed?

One other question I see in your photo the 3 heat exchanger protectors. You dont need the full tunnel protectors running all the way up?

Thanks a ton. I cant wait for next season. I bought mine in november new 17 left over in a 129 SE. I ran it this winter unstudded and with stock skis . I just installed the pilots per your right up instructions 2 weeks ago. I have 2201 miles this year same belt. So sled seems fine as far as the...