Dalton clutch weights question.

[krm]

The TP ramps seem to have more curvature

 

[waldo1]

the stm curves down quickly in the last 20% of top end - i dont have good luck with top end with stm - but havent spent much time with em. daltons just work.

 

[Doowithblue]

Guys should clarify which stm weights they prefer. The Y's or YS

 

[snowbeast]

Guys should clarify which stm weights they prefer. The Y's or YS

Most of our kits,at least from ulmer came with YS to mimic stock shift,as close as possible. They do work good,but may take more time to reach top speed on snow. But my stm,s ran the coolest of my changes,and I did run daltons too.

 

[snowbeast]

I may start yet another new thread on this very thing. There are many members in here who feel like the belt issue is just another Internet thing as they have gotten many miles on their ride without issue. While that is encouraging to know my glass is still half empty regarding a real fix.

I don't think there is much belt life for anyone running 285 hp and up,if you trail ride that hp corner to corner,if you have big highway trails like Canada and northern maine and new Brunswick does,you may get better life. I had great belt life last year on 265hp Evo-4 kit,with CAI and 3" sandale,but I was not just hammering on it all the time,during tight twisty stuff for miles on end either. But I did get my best performance out of the stock 8JP belts,and only broke one during all of the sleds 3717 miles. Most of its life was with ulmers kit,stm straight 38 w/red secondary spring indexed at 9/1 or 1 and zero,and his pink primary 30/90 with supertips loaded to 77 grms the stm 60 ys

 

[Brian Friebel]

Ok guys So I just went with the TD max 17 tune with CAI and turbo force exhaust. Also Turbo smart BOV. I will be running the Dalton updated B/O secondary spring wrapped at 6-2. With a Dalton straight 35 helix. Primary spring will be Dalton Black/ Green with glide washers running the DATY-1. Empty I have read they are 74 .9 what is a good or recommended starting point for weight with this set up to get me in the ballpark. I bought all the stuff from a TD dealer locally. He recommended target of 9100 RPM. He had the weights loaded for me with the 3/8 inch and 1 inch slug. Which according to Daltons chart would put me at 80.6 what you guys think too heavy or good starting point? Thanks for any input in advance.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Ok guys So I just went with the TD max 17 tune with CAI and turbo force exhaust. Also Turbo smart BOV. I will be running the Dalton updated B/O secondary spring wrapped at 6-2. With a Dalton straight 35 helix. Primary spring will be Dalton Black/ Green with glide washers running the DATY-1. Empty I have read they are 74 .9 what is a good or recommended starting point for weight with this set up to get me in the ballpark. I bought all the stuff from a TD dealer locally. He recommended target of 9100 RPM. He had the weights loaded for me with the 3/8 inch and 1 inch slug. Which according to Daltons chart would put me at 80.6 what you guys think too heavy or good starting point? Thanks for any input in advance.

That'll put you in the ballpark. Might be a tad heavy. What gearing you running?

 

[snowbeast]

If your looking to just add more heel weight i use a ball point type spring cut to the length i need to take up the room then add heel weight .

That's a very good idea KRM,that sure would work. Thanks

 

[Brian Friebel]

That'll put you in the ballpark. Might be a tad heavy. What gearing you running?

I am running stock gearing right now. I contacted the dealer i got the stuff from and he was mixed up. He said try just the 3/8 slug first. Which would put me at 76.2 I believe. Which has me thinking might be a tad light? I guess best way is to play around and test when the season gets here.

 

[DMCTurbo]

I am running stock gearing right now. I contacted the dealer i got the stuff from and he was mixed up. He said try just the 3/8 slug first. Which would put me at 76.2 I believe. Which has me thinking might be a tad light? I guess best way is to play around and test when the season gets here.

It's real easy to adjust the daltons. Try it like that and adjust accordingly. You're in the ballpark for sure.

 

[Fleecer]

I am running stock gearing right now. I contacted the dealer i got the stuff from and he was mixed up. He said try just the 3/8 slug first. Which would put me at 76.2 I believe. Which has me thinking might be a tad light? I guess best way is to play around and test when the season gets here.

I agree with your dealer. Running 80 gram weights in conjunction with a few long pulls in soft/warm conditions will drag the rpm down. Put the 3/8 and carry a set of 1/4 inch and 1/2 slugs in your toolkit to adjust.

Lastly, if you run Max 17, you will need more gear. Put 22 on the top, sled will pull quicker/faster everywhere.

 

[Brian Friebel]

I agree with your dealer. 80 gram weights in conjunction with few long pulls in soft/warm conditions will drag the rpm down. Put the 3/8 and carry a set of 1/4 inch and 1/2 slugs in your toolkit to adjust.

Lastly, if you run Max 17, you will need more gear. Put 22 on the top, sled will pull quicker/faster everywhere.

I was told the 22 top gear is alot harder on belts?? Truth? Or? Also if I do change the top gear to a 22 do I need a different chain? Thanks for input

 

[Fleecer]

I was told the 22 top gear is alot harder on belts?? Truth? Or? Also if I do change the top gear to a 22 do I need a different chain? Thanks for input

The 22 gear will fit with stock chain, however if your chain has under 1000 miles it may require some muscle and finesse to get it on. It fills the case better and is an efficient setup.

Yes, technically 22 is harder on belts than 21, however Max 17 will be harder on belts than stock especially, if you use it. In my opinion, running Max17 with stock gears is like baking a cake and not putting any frosting!!

On the bright side, Max 17 is a violent tune and every time you get off of your sled you will feel like a Hero. In my opinion, you can buy belts.....but you cant buy pride!! Keep in mind, your right thumb will be the biggest factor in determining belt life.

 

[Brian Friebel]

The 22 gear will fit with stock chain, however if your chain has under 1000 miles it may require some muscle and finesse to get it on. It fills the case better and is an efficient setup.

Yes, technically 22 is harder on belts than 21, however Max 17 will be harder on belts than stock especially, if you use it. In my opinion, running Max17 with stock gears is like baking a cake and not putting any frosting!!

On the bright side, Max 17 is a violent tune and every time you get off of your sled you will feel like a Hero. In my opinion, you can buy belts.....but you cant buy pride!! Keep in mind, your right thumb will be the biggest factor in determining belt life.

I have 5018 miles on sled and 2900 of those was from last year with just a stage 1 tune . I wasnt very nice to it and never blew a belt. Never blew a belt the year before either when it was stock. I was hoping I had a rare good one but who knows

 

[snowbeast]

I have 5018 miles on sled and 2900 of those was from last year with just a stage 1 tune . I wasnt very nice to it and never blew a belt. Never blew a belt the year before either when it was stock. I was hoping I had a rare good one but who knows

Your chain is plenty stretched for 22 gear,and if I was opening up my case again,because of the miles you already have on it,i would buy a new stock chain,just because of the milage and the power of that tune,i was able to install my 22 with brand new stock chain,back when I put mine on,now it has been on there sinse day one,and I have 5400 miles on my 17 ltx,it has been tuned sinse day one as well. The only thing is it may take two guys to get it on,but it does go on. And I have also had my 22 with no oil holes on for the full 5400 miles w/out any problems,belts or gear related.