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I have the same issue. Think it’s time for a new O2 censor but not sure.

Idle sounds likes its surging, RPM varies from 1460 to 1610 within 2 seconds then back down. ALT changes from 910 up to 1030 back down to 910, not sure if it’s linked or not to the idle issue. Thought on what to check?

SR Viper Is there any sealant required? If so, what should I be using.

Had a 1/2 tank of fuel. Some other threads suggested it’s a coolant sensor. What I don’t understand stand is if the sensors or wires to the sensor are bad, wouldn’t the gauge temp number also be bad? The numbers on the gauge seemed normal, not erratic.

Drove 40 miles and coolant temp was at 165 when the engine was cutting out sputtering crossing a road, red temp light was on and dash was displaying low temp message. Issue went away after a few seconds. Anyone have a clue what to check or test?

Rubber doesn’t compress, it displaces based on the amount of force applied. I think that’s what the bulge is. I don’t think you need more than 14 ft pounds torque to keep the stud tight.

I have it installed on my stock 14 Viper, and had no issues. Provost is easy to talk to, I would call him if you have a 16 shaft. The part numbers of his bushing are different for different years. My bushing came with instructions.

It’s the Ice Storm 150. Groomed trail riding. Cleaned with Mass Air Flow cleaner, treated the edges with Loctite 404 and two coats of E6000. Not sure if I’ll get to put miles on it to see what happens. Season might be over with this weather.

6K on track and tore a lug. Ride in very good conditions northern Maine and Quebec on a N.A. SR-Viper. I seen in the row my lug tore, the top belt is almost showing. And showing cords on the inside of the track. Just seems poor quality to me, but could be wrong. Going to put E6000 in the torn...

Anyone towing an enclosed 4 sled trailer with this engine. With only a 24 gallon tank what the fuel range and MPG is towing.

If you have a 14 or 15 with the wobble bearing on the upper shaft, if it’s worn bad the top gear will drop enough that it won’t allow engagement with the reverse gear. Also as previously stated, if the belt is too tight, the reverse won’t engage properly. Some people had the plastic fork guides...

To remove the lever from the ball pin: You remove the lever from the throttle block and rotate the lever until the slot in the lever lines up with the cable, the lever should release.

Hopefully this helps

2014 spring is .405” and the other set I have is .393” on the square. 14 and 16 ltx have different part numbers

Currently running YamaCat dual rate ski springs with 150-zbroz front skid spring and 2014 rear torsion springs in the lowest setting. 2016 2” rear shock and all other shocks where re-valved by our recommended vendors. Front skid strap is stock and rear coupling blocks are on 1 if i can read it...

Started at zero out. Went for a 15mile ride to a clubhouse, then no start leaving. Cranked, heard the fuel pump running and had dash light up but no start. The kill switch was in the proper position. I repetitively turned on the key and kill switch, then started. What relay froze? Last time I...

I got it out by heating the case, thanks everyone.

Tried to pull the upper chain case heavily worn wobble bearing and the bearing came apart leaving the outer race in the chain case. I tried using a bearing puller on the inside of the race and can’t get enough traction. I don’t want to pull the chain case do to back issues. What are the options?

Before I tore the case apart, I replaced the motor and relay and had the same issue. I tore the case apart today; the bearing balls are almost falling out of the cage. The shaft moved about 1/16" up and down. The top gear bushing was good, and the pucks are good.