04 Rx-1 Ski lift and 700mile thoughts..

[fast1200gp]

Just got back from another weekend away in vermont snowmobiling,rode 500 last weekend and rode only 200 this weekend,(due to conditions going away fast),any way the ski is awsome,wicked fast ,xcellent gas milage ,my complaints--,way to much ski lift,bottoms out way to easy im 255lbs with gear,i cant seem to keep the skis on the ground,in the corners it has alot of push also.it seems the rx is very tippsy and top heavy,,just looking for opinons from u guys with 04 rx1,,i played with the limiter straps,,took all the preload out of the front springs,tranfer rods,,all helped alittle but not where i would like it to be,,,,any ideas,,the sled is stock except for QC-1 exhaust system,,before i do clucthing and studs i would like to get this ski lift thing taken care of,,im looking to put a rear ohlin but there on back order til the 10th of jan,,to help the bottoming out,,lets hear some opinions,,,,,,,,thanks guys,
I changed the oil and filter at 500 miles im using klotz 4 stroke oil,,other then that the ski runs great ,started first crank,i came off a piped sx700r and it was like a go kart compared to this,,but i think with some setting up the rx-1 can be one too,,,

 

[welterracer]

Im just guessing but i bet the limiter straps were all the way loose from the factory RIGHT!!!

DId you suck them way up??

Adjusting the fronts shocks too tight can make it worse!!

 

[vmaxjohn]

For a bigger rider, its crucial for you to set the skid up for your weight. Lighter riders can get by, but bigger folks need it just right.

Get a 50/50 rod gap to start. You might find that you hit the max settings for your springs, and need to jump up to big boy springs. Just lay across the seat and look at your control rod gaps, see whatcha got.

As far as ski lift...it's a little confusing. If it pushes in corners, it sounds like you're not getting enough bite. Lotsa bite makes ski lift happen more often...so it leaves me wondering exactly what's happening. Are you getting ski lift when you're exiting a corner, under throttle? If so, tightening up your coupling with your adjustable control can help. You'll want to adjust them tighter, although another RX1 owner can recommend specific settings.

With all that said, if you can tune in some sit in all around, you'll probably have a flatter cornering machine. Not sure if you can do it with stock springs though. Good luck!

 

[jim-bob]

First rule/ only change one thing at a time/ test ride/ then make your next change/ Possible help as mine was similar as far as the ski lift goes/ go to page 8-27 in your manual/ see control rod adjustment/ before putting a wrench to anything get a magic marker/starting on the left side of the sled( left as if you were sitting on the sled) mark where your control nut is(that's the upper one/ closest to the front of the sled)then losen the bottom nut( jam nut) down the shaft 5-6 turns to get it back out of the way/ then turn the top nut toward the jam nut three (3)full turns( to get the correct direction the handle of your wrench will be touching the running board and as you turn the handle will be going down toward the ground)/ then turn the jam nut back up against the control nut/ repeat for the other side/ adjust both sides the same number of turns/ follow instructions as per manual and this will help keep the skis down/ make sure when you test that the trail is good hard pack snow/ that way your track will be getting maximum bite/ if it still lifts the skis / repeat the adjustment only make one turn on the nut each time/ once you've made this adjustment once you'll see how easy it is to do./this may correct all your problems/ however I'm guessing that you'll need to adjust the limiter straps ( easy on Yamaha)they are on each side of the front shock of the rear suspension/ you'll see that the straps are looped around a threaded eye bolt simply loosen the jam nut turn the adjustment nut and tighten the jam nut/ again mark the adjustment nuts before you start and do both sides the same/ if the handling is worst turn the nut back the other way / if it's better/ your on your way/ good luck/ later

 

[vmaxjohn]

Good post Jimbob. The only thing I could add is paragraphs

 

[SumpBuster]

I put more miles on what I would consider testing, than riding, when around home...on varying snow conditions. That's why I made up all those spring and ski heel rubbers, to quickly change pressure points...and I'm happy with both sleds...they are not perfect in all conditions, but handle very well...as long as when the ski lifts, you feel confident to accelerate, as this settles the sled and can be ridden much faster. Ski heel pressure makes them steer harder and push more, but this is used to advantage when riding like a maniac...much much more stable at high speeds, and less twitchy. You just have to play with each adjustment...go extreme, so you know if it is the direction you want to go in, like totally pull up the limiters and see what it does..if it's better, except for some undesireable stuff, back off until happy. A few threads at a time is hard to tell, for me.

 

[tshelver]

Problem is I prefer twitchy, At least, I like to be able to kick the back end out: grew up on dirt roads / rear enging / rwd cars and got used to steering with the rear end.

My old VMAX 700 was great for this, you could break the back end out going into a corner on the brakes, then play with the throttle to settle it back in or out as necessary. Once lined up, gas it as hard as you like.

The Warrior just wants to go straight. On the throttle, push. On the brakes, straight...

 

[SumpBuster]

That's what I used to like..but on these, front bite, and twitchy under deceleration got me a visit underneath it last year. Now my black shorty, with a ripsaw, pushes much more than the studded finger track, so I would imagine a Warrior will push even more. I put pressure on the heel to have more stability when pounding bumps, but if you need more steering, try the opposite...add something to the rubber in front of the spindle..this should aid steering response, and make it eaier to turn. Ski doo used to have skis that adjusted this feature, and it works the nuts. Pressure in front, and steering is light and twitchy, pressure in back and steering is dull, and harder, but no darting or twitchy. Balance this, and you'll be all set. But pull the limiters up, or the sled will be bobbing up and down on and off the gas...better to have less lift, and more consistent (level) sled under most conditions, imo.

 

[fast1200gp]

tshelver,,,,,,,exactly,,i came off a sx700r and used to only rear steer this sled,,,,,,,,with the rx1 it seems to just push,,its unstudded with ripsaw,,hard to get used to,,,

 

[JAZZ04RX1]

You guys all talk about pushing, what size and type of carbides are you using. 8 inch, 10 inch and double or single runners?

I am just going to get my RX-1 out for the first time this weekend. I have not studded it yet and have 8 inch single carbides on.

Any thoughts on how this may handle? And or what ajustments to make right away I am 5'8" and 190lbs.

 

[Silverbullet]

Hey Jazz, sounds like way to much carbide for a un studded track :!: I would think the 4" would be plenty 8)

 

[vmaxjohn]

I would never recommend that you make a ski unstable, by shimming the front of the spindle. This will absolutley result in darting, I can't see someone looking for that trait.

Set up your ski runner pressure 50/50 or 40/60 and adjust push with limiter straps. the more aggressive your skis are, the less you'll need. Also, skisavers from Bergstrom help all skis carve.

 

[Convert]

I added about 3/16 of rubber under the back of the saddle per Sumpbusters post sure made it steer a whole lot easier waiting for some decent snow to really test his theory. But it does seem to help. I agree putting it on the front side of the saddle would make it much worse make it dig in more and make it dart all over the place.

 

[SumpBuster]

I wouldn't run pressure in the front either, over stock, but the point was that ski doo made a bridge ski that had a sliding angle that would increase pressure on the heel, or reduce it putting on the front. And then they had the proflex skis on my 01 Mach, which eliminated darting, but pushed terrible. The skag was covered ahead of the spindle. Had them on for 100 miles, and swapped for regular flex skis.
But learned that heel makes for stability, but more push, and less heel leads to more bite on the front of the skag, but darts. And yes, balance this after adjusting the limiters. I run mine tight, which gives much less angle, and can run a looser track with no ratcheting. This also balances the sled from front to rear pitching, making the ski adjustments work better under de/acceleration. I'm looking for the best predictability and handling at high speed, not necessarily comfort.